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Another way to check is to pull the cabinet, bypass the Lid Switch by jumping the two outside connections with a short piece of insulated wire and re-start the machine. You should be able to tell where the "burning" is coming from by looking at the motor, gearcase, coupler etc.
The service Manual shows how to bypass the switch also.
You also don't have to buy a special spanner wrench. I've used a short (10") pipe wrench hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and by tapping the handle of the wrench, the nut should come loose.
Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up.
Make sure that the tabs on the drive tube align with the slots in the drive block when putting the washer back together.
You need to replace the drive block and basket drive. You can download a tutorial to get you started at www.shop.washermd.com. The gearcase replacement tutorial will put you in the right direction. Dave
I would agree with you, it sounds like it isn't going back together correctly. When I put the cabinets back on them, I first make sure all 4 of the spades sticking up from the base are straight and not bent over. Next I grasp the hole the lid covers towards the front and lift and pull it towards me so the bottom of the cabinet is closer to me than the top. Next, I use my foot to push the bottom of the cabinet under the bar that goes across the base of the machine. Then I tilt the top of the washer back towards the machine. I wiggle the sides, until the cabinet seats into the spades coming from the base. After it seats properly, the clips should be lined up properly to be installed.