Question about Kenmore Washing Machines

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Laundry Center Washing Machine Leaks

I am attempting to repair a Kenmore Laundry Center that leaks. The leak is coming from the bottom of the tub where the transmission shaft connects to the tub. I have been able to remove the drum, but I have gotten stuck on the next step. I believe I need to remove the "upper housing assembly" (pictured, name from the parts diagram), but I have been unable to determine how to remove it. I have not been able to unscrew the silver piece above the shaft. Perhaps there's a trick to it.

Thanks in advance,

Dlockwo

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  • dlockwo Sep 07, 2008

    Model No. 41799170100

  • dlockwo Sep 07, 2008

    Kenmore Laundry Center Model No. 41799170100. I have been able to find some parts diagrams from www.searspartsdirect.com, but I was unable to figure out how to remove the upper part of the transmission from the diagrams.



    Thanks,



    DLockwo

  • dlockwo Sep 07, 2008

    I actually would like to know how to remove the upper housing assembly from the transmission in the drum. I am aware that I can remove the entire drum from the machine.

  • dlockwo Sep 07, 2008

    This solution did not assist me in removing the upper housing assembly within the drum. I do not want to remove the drum from the machine. Please explain how you disassembly the transmission assembly.

  • dlockwo Sep 07, 2008

    Ginko,



    Thanks for you solution. I will check it out. My response was Junoon007.

  • dlockwo Sep 07, 2008

    The diagram is not applicable to my machine unfortunately.

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  • Master
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To unscrew the silver piece above the shaft put a penetrating oils,an oil with lighter than lubricating oils and do not offer much friction reduction,they are formulated to penetrate corrosion,such as rust, try to clean off the excess corrosion if you can, Always Shock the assembly by carefully tapping on it, if you can, with a hard implement such as a or wrench. Do this carefully so the shafting will not damaged.To stop the leaks put a marine epoxy to the leaks affected.. hope this may help you; Regards, VOTIT

Posted on Sep 07, 2008

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  • Master
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Likely a C clip that holds that shaft on... the clip will have two holes on either end of it. you can remove the clip with a screwdriver by prying on both sides at the same time but there doesn't look like a lot of room there.... invest in the tool for the removal of those clips... you may have to remove some of the corresion to see it.

Robert

Posted on Sep 07, 2008

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  • Master
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Here http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_23.asp is a detailed discription that will guide you all you have to do is move your move to get a full pictorial view and the next step including how to order for the parts .hope this helps

Posted on Sep 07, 2008

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  • Master
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Dear Sir/Madam,

When the drum has been removed(pull the drum up at the rear to get the ball-shaped rear bearing out of the bearing holder)you'll see two 5/16 screws that secure the rear bearing. The stainless steel bracket at the rear of the dryer is where those screws go into. In your case--it is problably a good idea to have a helper get behind the dryer to hold this bracket while the screws are removed/installed. A small ball bearing is also under this bracket--this is the drum *ground* circuit. addthis_pub = 'ApplianceBlog';
click this link for more details

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2007/05/16/getting-to-the-lid-switch-in-a-kenmore-top-loading-washer/


http://applianceguru.com/forum2/834.html

Thanks
good luck

Posted on Sep 07, 2008

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  • Kenmore Master
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Post the washing machine make and model, I see if I can find specifig diagrams for your appliance.

Posted on Sep 07, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 07, 2008

    Here is a general diagram for a top load WM, similar to yours, browse the mouse on the picture, until you get visualised the mounting stem and boot seals.
    This is common cause for leaks from the central part of the tub.
    Post the complete model number, so that I can give you exploded view for your appliance.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 07, 2008

    I found all parts for your appliance here, I haven't found a diagram.
    There is no truck to remove the stem, you just need a good wrench.
    I see if I can find some schematics.
    In the meanwhile check inside the washing machine, some Kenmore has schematics and assembly instructions sealed in a plastic envelope on a side panel inside the machine, take a torch light and have a look.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 07, 2008

    Ok, I was looking for a downloadable diagram for the machine, unfortunately I found none.
    Here is another part seller, with all parts for your machine.
    If you are really in trouble call one of the parts seller, and ask if they can send you the service manual or the exploded view for your model.



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Water coming out of the bottom of the machine


Sometimes, what may seem like a washing machine leaking from bottom locations is actually one that leaks slowly from other spots. Slow leaks can accumulate beneath your washing machine making it seem like you have a bottom leak. For more help identifying the exact point of the leak, see Washing machine leaking.

Bottom leaks may be better identified using a newspaper. Just dry the floor and lay the newspaper beneath the washing machine before you test for leaks. Darkened sections map out your water leak. This method is not always foolproof, however. The best diagnosis will come from a qualified service professional inspecting your machine.

If your washing machine is leaking from bottom in the rear, you may need a replacement pump and professional installation. The leak could also be caused by a faulty air dome seal or a hole in the tub. For more troubleshooting steps to tackle that leak, see Washing machine leaking from bottom. I hope that helps!

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Hello there diana and welcome to fixya

Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: During fill only During drain and spin only All the time During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these: Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it. The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these: Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate. Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

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1 Answer

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It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

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KENMORE WHAT ???? DEPENDS ON WHAT MACHINE UR TALKING ABOUT???????

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You will have to remove the rear panel from your machine to see leak happening. Do not reach into the back of the machine while it is powered if possible. Be extremely careful.

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With great care you will need to start the machine to observe where the leak is coming from.

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Leaks will usually occur in the rubber sump hose; at the air chamber; at the pump connection or pump; or in the drain hose. Careful inspection of these points should reveal its location.

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Further clarification of the leak location is needed for further diagnosis

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