Question about APC MasterSwitch Power Receptacle - Power distribution strip- 4 Output (ap95103202) UPS System

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Receptacles wired backwards

How do I fix a receptacles that was wired backwards?

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Re: Receptacles wired backwards

"Reverse polarity" is the term used to describe the condition where electrical wires are connected to the wrong terminals of a receptacle; it's a common condition that can be hazardous if the "hot" side of your electrical system gets connected to certain types of lamps or equipment. It's common because it's an easy mistake to make when hooking up wires and because receptacles work fine even when the polarity is reversed. You generally don't know the condition exists unless you look for it. If you think you're home's wiring is a bit haphazard or may contain some conditions of reverse polarity, it's a good idea to check for it. You can buy a simple circuit tester for less than $20. Just plug it into all duplex receptacles; test both the top and bottom. If you discover reverse polarity: 1) Shut off the circuit breaker that serves that receptacle (the tester's lights will go out). 2) Unscrew the cover plate from the receptacle, and use a voltage tester to be sure none of the wires in the electrical box are still "hot." 3) Unscrew or release the wires from the receptacle and re-fasten them to the proper terminals--white to the silver (neutral terminal and black to the brass hot terminal. The bare or green wire should connect to the green screw. 4) Put the cover plate back on, turn the circuit back on, and test the receptacle again. Note: If the tester indicates reverse polarity but the wires are hooked up to the proper terminals, call an electrician.

Posted on Jan 18, 2006

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Pac makes continous sound

What is the sound? Is the device working normally? Are there any lights or indicators? Do they indicate a fault or error?

A UPS runs on standard 110-120 VAC power. It converts the input power to DC and charges internal batteries, then back to AC. Connected devices actually run on the conditioned 115-120 VAC output. The batteries serve as a short term backup power source.

The electronics in the UPS can produce hum or high pitched tones. The sound should not be annoying. If it is louder than connected equipment (computers) it may indicate a problem. Hum is usually 60 Hz harmonics and difficult to eliminate. This harmonic may be transferred to audio equipment such as speakers or radios. A high pitched tone can be related to the rectifiers for the convertor/invertor. If the tone is loud, it means the rectifiers are drawing a lot of current. This is usually related to bad batteries.

Measure the voltage on the output receptacles. It should be 115-120 VAC. Disconnect everything on the output receptacles. Unplug the UPS from it's power source. If the output power dies within 1 minute, the batteries need to be replaced.

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After battery is discharge because power failure, ups is not automatically working even there is power supply

Check on the back of the UPS to see if the input circuit breaker has tripped. Are you getting any lights on the front LED's? Also disconnect all loads and ensure nothing is plugged into the output receptacles. Also open UPS up and ensure the input fuse is not blown. You will need a meter to check this out.

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Hi, Input power should has hard wire but on output has no wires ( is just receptacles). See below details :

Input connection :

230V, 50-60 HZ (Hard wire: 3 wires) ? connect to power source

Output connection :

(8) IEC 320 C13


(2) IEC 320 C19


? Connect this port to your loads

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Your battery is either disconnected or failed and must be replaced.

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Ran a new line from panel with 7 receps and one switch. the 1st outlet works and the 2nd half works and all others after that don't work.The breaker doesn't flip so what is the problem?

I am assuming that you installed your receptacles by attatching one wire to one screw .. not pigtailing the wires to the receptacle. It seems to me that your second receptacle has a missing link. Look at the sides on the receptacle, there should be a small link between the two terminal screws to carry the power to the next in line. If the link is missiong then replace that receptacle and you will be good ion the circuit .. If the link is there , then check you connections, sometimes we can catch a bit of the insulation in the terminal and then there is no transfer of electricity from that point on .. If you pigtail the wires and then connect the receptacle to the tail, then the circuit has more integrity. and we should always use the screw terminals, not the stab-ins. a better , more secure connection.

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that´s pretty strange and i would say that the batteries aren´t properly charged, try to let them charging over night without any load. good luck

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Replacing a receptacle

As always when working with electricity, shut off the power. Use a circuit tester to make sure that the power is really off. Unscrew the receptacle's cover plate; be sure you get a replacement receptacle that's the correct type for your wiring?though most receptacles are standard, aluminum wiring should only be connected to receptacles designated CO-ALR. When installing the new receptacle, connect the black (hot) wire to the brass terminal screw, the white (neutral) wire to the silver screw, and the bare (ground) wire to the green ground screw. Unscrew the receptacle cover plate and unscrew the receptacle. Disconnect the wires from the terminals. Form a curl with a pair of needle-nose pliers so the wires hook clockwise around the screws, then tighten the terminal screws. Screw the receptacle to the box and add the cover plate.

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What is a GFCI Receptacle?

A special type of receptacle called a GFCI (or GFI), short for ground-fault circuit interrupter, protects kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor receptacles in a home from the serious shock that can occur where electricity and water meet. Identified by the reset and test buttons located on its face, a GFCI will sense even a tiny short and will shut down itself and, in some cases, other receptacles on the same circuit. Just push the reset button to reset the receptacles. Push the test button periodically to insure that the device is working.

Jan 18, 2006 | APC MasterSwitch Power Receptacle - Power...

2 Answers

Receptacle Doesn't Work

By far the most common problem with a receptacle is that it doesn?t work. Because receptacles are very inexpensive and easy to replace, it makes sense to replace them when they cease to work properly. But before you go to the trouble of buying a new one and installing it, make sure that the old one is truly defective. For a non-working duplex receptacle, first make sure the problem isn't with the appliance or lamp. Some appliances, such as hairdryers, have overload protectors that automatically shut them off if they begin to overheat. Try a second appliance or lamp in the receptacle. If the receptacle still doesn't work, you'll usually find that the circuit breaker has tripped or the fuse has blown, the receptacle has become faulty, or there is a switch that operates that receptacle and it needs to be turned on. The problem is rarely the wiring. 1) Test the receptacle with a second lamp or appliance. 2) Be sure that one half of the duplex receptacle (or the entire receptacle) isn't controlled by a switch in the room. 3) Check the circuit breaker (or fuse) for that receptacle's circuit to be sure it has not tripped (or blown). If it has, reset the breaker or replace the fuse, and try plugging a working lamp or appliance into the receptacle again. 4) If it still doesn't work, turn off the receptacle's circuit breaker, unscrew the cover plate from the receptacle, and use a voltage tester to be sure none of the wires in the electrical box are still "hot." Then check to be sure that the wires are securely fastened to the receptacle's terminals. 5) Look for signs of charring. Replace the receptacle if it looks damaged. 6) Put the cover plate back on, turn the circuit back on, and try the receptacle again. If it still doesn't work, turn the circuit back off, remove the receptacle cover, and replace the receptacle with one that has the same amp and voltage ratings. 7) If this doesn't solve the problem, call an electrician.

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1 Answer

What is a receptacle?

When you plug something into a conventional duplex receptacle (the type that receives two appliance plugs), and the device doesn't work, trouble shooting the problem is fairly simple. For large receptacles that run on 220 to 240 volts, such as ranges and dryers and air conditioners, call an electrician unless you're well-versed in electrical repairs and safety issues. Always check when installing if the appliance is rated from 15 to 50 amps, 240 volts, and 20 to 50 amps, 120/240 volts. They have two hot wires (red and black) and a separate grounding wire. Receptacle basics Conventional duplex receptacles have two places to plug in electrical cords or devices. Each of those two places includes one narrow slot, one wide slot, and a semicircular hole. The narrow slot is the "hot" side, connected to the black wire of the electrical system. The wide slot is the "neutral" side, connected to the white wire. And the semicircular hole is the ground, connected to a bare or green wire or the electrical system's ground. Many electrical plugs have one wide blade and one narrow blade (and, in some cases, a ground plug) that match the receptacle's slots to insure that the circuit is properly connected to the electrical device. Wires may be attached to screws on each side of the receptacle or plugged into terminal holes in the back of the receptacle. Whether wires attached to screw terminals or are pushed into rear-mount terminals, the screw terminals on the sides of the receptacle are hot (charged) so don't touch them!

Jan 18, 2006 | APC MasterSwitch Power Receptacle - Power...

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