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Short circuited component/s at its main board. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Viewing it in "Mosaic" will make surf easy. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
You either have a cold solder joint in your horizontal deflection circuits or your or in your horizontal output circuit. please be careful due to the fly-back transformer still holds power even unplugged until you discharge it.( ground it out). Hope this helps.
the high pitch squeal indicates shorted component/s. the transformer goes hot co'z its being overloaded by the shorted component, it too could be the one creating the squeal!!
if you have experience with electronic troubleshooting, try to test some of the components particularly on the secondary part of the transformer. Be careful and make sure the TV set is unplugged. test for shorted diodes and transistors, if you're in doubt of your readings try to desoldering one leg of the diode then proceed with the testing/measuring. replace any of the bad components you find exactly with same part number or replacements with the same rating.
spend more time on it resoldering some other cold soldered components.
Hello there, I'm having a major problem with my TV, I have called all
of the local TV repair shops and they all are the same, they want money
money money before they will even speak with me about the problem I'm
having. This is the only TV in my entire household for a family of 4
and we desperately need the TV in working condition for our kids. I
don't want to have to put out $500 for another set if I don't
absolutely have to.
About 3-4 months ago the TV when turned on, the picture would slowly
come into view and be very scrambled and before the picture would come
into complete view the TV power would shut itself off, but the power
light would remain on. You can hear the "Click" noise when it would
shut itself off.
2-3 seconds after it 'shut itself off' then the TV would make the
"Click" noise (The same noise it makes when you first turn it on), it
would make the "Click" noise over and over and over again but nothing
would happen. So i would turn it off and on again and change the
channel rapidly until after 2-3 minutes it would come into view and
So we decided to leave the TV on 24 hours a day. Then today we awoke
and it was off and making the "clicking" noise over and over and over
again but with no picture or sound. Now it wont even turn on/off it
just sits there and goes "Click, Click Click Click" and doesn't do
I described the problem as best as I can. Here is the TV information and specifications...
Philips 27 Inch Tube TV
Model Number... 27PT54 3S37A
Serial Number... 78438404
Date Code March 2003
Now that I typed the model number there are threads everywhere people
saying the same issue exactly as me, I will read them but please
someone tell me is there anything I can do...
Can anyone explain exactly what is wrong with the Tv and why it's doing this?
Also, what should I expect to pay to repair it?
Any information or help would be appreciated very much.
Thanks in advance,
Just got off the phone with certified Philips shop...they said they
will repair it for $100-$130 with a $25 down payment just drop it off
and he will call me when its done. Does this sound like its worth it or
a rip off?
Sounds pretty bad to me, I had a computer monitor that did a similar thing when plugged in after blowing, it's not a good thing. I didn't even bother to mess with it. You may have to replace the whole power board or at least have a whole handful of pieces to re-solder. It most likely isn't worth it unless your other tv's are under 30" and you don't have a lot of money ;)
First it's not just Philips, they all are making TV to only last a few years now, they are not made to last, thats how they make money by selling you something you will have to replace in just a few short years. As far as your problem, you may have a cold solder joint somewhere, do you have a 25/35 watt soldering iron? if so try soldering pins on the regulator IC the vertical IC the horz output transistor and drive transformer and the flyback, in fact solder just about as much as you can, spend some time in there soldering. Dont forget to ubplug the set and stay away from the high voltage anode connected to the picture tube, it can still hold a charge even if the set is unplugged, do not try to take it off. Hope this helps!
The color wheel is the most common problem in DLPs that cause noise.
To determine the cause:
Turn the set off.
If the noise goes away after about five seconds, then, the problem is the color wheel.
If the noise goes away one to two minutes after shut off, then, the problem is a fan.
You can find an Authorized Servicer in your area that can tell you the price of repair, by clicking on the Samsung link: