Question about Hoover HCA331FFK

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Runs but doesn't cool

My refregerator seems to be working, but it doesn't cool. What is the problem?

Posted by Anonymous on

  • jepoy_pc Jul 17, 2010

    Problem For Kooppel 7 Tons model PC60...
    The circuit breaker of compressor trip when we ON the unit, we try to check the terminal of compressor we got a high resistance reading..what is your other opinion of this problem is the compressor totally defective..pls help


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5 Answers

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Verify the compressor is running first and the fan close to it. Check for dust dirt in the condenser coils underneath. Clean as necessary. Feel of the compressor CAREFUL if its HOT to the touch and hasn't been cooling listen to it for the 10 to 20 minutes your talking about. If its precisely 15 minutes on then off and the fan motor under by the compressor starts and stops at the same time your controller (thermostat or sensor/board assy.) is not sending power on to the compressor - replace as necessary. If your fans keeps running under neath the compressor is not working correctly. here is what to do to check it.

The fan staying on underneath is the tattle tell. If its not running something else is turning off and on the compressor (they run together normally) and fan motor look to the controller.
If the fan stays on it means (usually) the compressor should be running also. So the controllers are at least telling it to run. If the fan isn't up to speed or the coil is blocked with dust and lint/dirt this can cause (in some setups) both fan and compressor to overload from heat.

Assuming you have voltage to the compressor and the coils are clean and the fan motor under is working up to par, The compressor or its start components are at fault. Here is what to look for:

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

  • Farley Redfield
    Farley Redfield Apr 14, 2009

    Verify the compressor is running first and the fan close to it. Check for dust dirt in the condenser coils underneath. Clean as necessary. Feel of the compressor CAREFUL if its HOT to the touch and hasn't been cooling listen to it for the 10 to 20 minutes your talking about. If its precisely 15 minutes on then off and the fan motor under by the compressor starts and stops at the same time your controller (thermostat or sensor/board assy.) is not sending power on to the compressor - replace as necessary. If your fans keeps running under neath the compressor is not working correctly. here is what to do to check it.

    The fan staying on underneath is the tattle tell. If its not running something else is turning off and on the compressor (they run together normally) and fan motor look to the controller.
    If the fan stays on it means (usually) the compressor should be running also. So the controllers are at least telling it to run. If the fan isn't up to speed or the coil is blocked with dust and lint/dirt this can cause (in some setups) both fan and compressor to overload from heat.

    Assuming you have voltage to the compressor and the coils are clean and the fan motor under is working up to par, The compressor or its start components are at fault. Here is what to look for:








    Normal
    0


    false
    false
    false







    MicrosoftInternetExplorer4









    /* Style Definitions */
    table.MsoNormalTable
    {mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
    mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
    mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
    mso-style-noshow:yes;
    mso-style-parent:"";
    mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
    mso-para-margin:0in;
    mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
    mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
    font-size:10.0pt;
    font-family:"Times New Roman";
    mso-ansi-language:#0400;
    mso-fareast-language:#0400;
    mso-bidi-language:#0400;}








    Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start
    components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to
    ground and across to each other.





    If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.


    Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be
    different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.


    Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be
    close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a
    couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.


    Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor
    if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words
    everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the
    compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem
    solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically
    inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace
    the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.


    .

    A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to
    12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours
    and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And
    about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other
    1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from
    a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.



    30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.

    Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t
    understand.




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I took the back cover of the freezer off and found it all iced up. after defrosting all the ice; found the defrost coil tube busted into a dozen pieces and coiled filiment broke. i took longest piece and hooked back between the two ends of the defrost connections so the defrost would work. good enouph. if you don't want to pay for a repairman for a 10 year old fridge

Posted on May 27, 2007

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Check the coils under the freezer for dust and clean them

Posted on May 06, 2007

Try replacing the overload relay attached to the compressor.

Posted on Mar 26, 2007

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  • 74 Answers

If a refrigerator doesn't cool at all, the problem is often with basic electrical controls-almost never with a need for a boost of refrigerant. Do not assume that the problem is related to the compressor or the sealed hermetic system-these types of problems happen only rarely. It may have dirty condenser coils, a door that doesn't seal tightly, or a defective temperature control. 1) Check the cold control. Be sure it is set to "cold." Normally, the temperature inside the refrigerator should be about 37 degrees F. 2) Listen for the freezer fan inside the freezer. When the freezer fan is running, it means the defrost timer and the cold control in the refrigerator are both set to cool. 3) Listen for the compressor fan, where the compressor is located (typically behind or beneath the refrigerator. When the freezer fan is operating the compressor fan should also be working (most of the time). 4) If one of the fans is not working or the compressor is off, the refrigerator will offer very little cooling or none at all. Call a repairperson.

Posted on Jan 18, 2006

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