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Most deli units are gravity cooling units and it is normal for the evaporator to be iced up if your unit has fans it still is not unusual, the ice will melt when the unit cycles off. If the evaporator is only iced up on one end, you are low on freon.
When a refrigerator slows down ice production it is usually the result of poor air-flow through the evaporator coils. The poor air-flow is due to ice build up on the evaporator coils. The ice build up happens because the unit is not defrosting properly or the evaporator fan is not running at full speed.
To answer your question "Can an Ice-maker tube freeze?" Yes, they can and do freeze but when they do freeze that is caused by a defective inlet water valve that is leaking water by when it is supposed to be shut off. It can freeze if some one set the temp control to MAX cold. Additionally when they do freeze and the Ice-maker cycles the plastic hose on the back of the unit pops out of the ice maker tube and each cycle starts porting ice maker fill water on the floor.
This may sound odd.. but. Perform a manual defrost by removing the freezer contents and directing a fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (Makes a water mess so do not leave it unattended) The return the unit to normal service and after 8 hours start watching the amount of ice produced. (Should be normal for 2 days!) If after 2 days the ice production slows again you have an automatic defrosting problem that is causing the ice build up on the evaporator coils.
If you need any more assistance please include your complete model number in any future responses.
Make sure drain hose is not clogged up. Check evaporator fan, (small fan in freezer compartment). it should come on after door is open a couple of minutes. Feel air vents in fridge side for a stream of cold air, if none or too weak, remove back cover (where fan is) and check for frozen evaporator coil. If evaporator is frozen, air can't circulate thru unit, keeping fridge side from cooling and freezer side below freezing point.
If this is the case, unplugg unit from power outlet, and use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt ice, make sure all vents are clear.
Once the evaporator coil is free of ice, dry freezer, replace back cover and plug unit back on. Check temp. settings, should be about 1/3 of the dial range. If necessary, make additional adjustments every 24 hrs.
temp. control knobs,
Small fan in freezer
Remove freezer back panel (where the little fan is) and check for iced evaporator coil, if so, unplug unit and use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt ice, make sure the air duct going to the fridge is clear.
The most critical question following a defrost is this ( if the fridge no longer cools/freezes )...What method did you use to remove the ice ?
If you "chipped" it away via a knife or other means of "chipping" or "picking" the ice from the evaporator as opposed to allowing it to melt, I would immediately suspect a hole in the evaporator. If that is the case the fridge is toast. I mean in theory it CAN be repaired, but the cost would be impractical...unless you know a tech who can epoxy the evap and recharge the system with gas (R134A). If that is even legal where you reside, there are specific laws regarding "sealed system repairs" from state to state, province to province, country to country, so you'll want to check the laws/by-laws where you live.
Of course you should insure the compressor is operating as that would be essential for the unit to cool as well.
I have to say though, holes in the evaporator are the most common culprit for a manual defrost fridge not cooling...following a client "chipping" off the ice.
Let me know if this answered you question. Thanks for visiting "fixya" for your fridge inquiry and good luck.
1) Bad defrost thermostat 2) Bad defrost heater 3) Bad defrost timer 4) Failed evaporator fan motor.
Look for frost accumulated inside the louvers at the back panel, top and bottom. If you see it, remove food from freezer and put in ice chest. Take out shelves, get hair dryer and warm the backside of the freezer, directing air down the louvers. Then leave to sit for 4-6 hours with the freezer door open. Put towels in the bottom of the freezer to catch any melted ice. After period of time, plug unit back in and power the unit back up. Once you know it's cooling, empty ice chests back into freezer.
If there is a problem in any of the above components, then it will show up in 3-4 weeks witht he same problem again.
Water solenoid to ice maker not working. Check with ohm meter..should NOT read open Water line to Ice maker frozen solid. Look at water inlet to ice maker....is ice present in line? Evaporator coils frozen over with ice. Will cause water line to freeze and unit will slowly thaw. Try unplugging the unit for several hours and see if it starts to cool normally again. If it cools normally then check heater element and Defrost Thermostat.
If it was not drained for winter, do so and then remove all scale from the pan, pump inlet screen, etc. Replace the pads if they are scaled up and remove any scale from the louvered panels. WITH THE POWER OFF, check the belt for cracking and check to drive motor and blower wheel bearings for smooth operation, oil bearings with oil ports. With clean water in the sump, a good drive belt, clean pump screen and clean pads, the unit is ready to power up and run test the float action/shut-off, water distribution through the arms, belt tension (just enough to prevent slipping). These units work best when they can fully evaporate the water, so let the air flow out as fast as it come into the cooled space to maximize the evaporative effect. Also note, these unit must be level to work properly.
Could be stuck in "defrost" mode. Happens a lot. See if you can hear if the compressor is running or the compressor cooling fan is running (in back underneath the unit). Worse case is the refrigerant leaked out and you have a sealed system problem.