Question about Whirlpool LER3624JQ Electric Dryer

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Power Suply Cord

The supply cord power and receptacle over heated. Where can I find a replacement power supply cord?

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  • HFC40 Sep 06, 2008

    Dryer is a Whirlpool LER3624JQ1.

  • HFC40 Sep 10, 2008

    Much thanks. Bought a new receptacle and the power supply cord at Home Depot. Installed both in about an hour.

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If the cord is the ONLY item you need and NOT the terminal block in the dryer, then Home Depot sells replacement cords with a molded plug attached as well as ring lugs on the opposite end for terminating them on the dryer block. You'll need to know if you are using a 3-prong or 4- prong set up in order to get the correct cord. Hope this helps..

Posted on Sep 07, 2008

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Verify your voltage at the wall receptacle before assuming you have a dryer problem. You should be reading 220-240VAC across the two HOT (left and right) terminals. If the voltage is not correct, you may have a breaker tripped somewhere. Most homes utilize a single dedicated 220VAC breaker for the dryer circuit. However, some older homes, may use two 120VAC breakers. So, if you are missing half your voltage, you may have a breaker tripped, or a bad receptacle.<br /> <br /> If the voltage IS correct, you may not have your power cord installed correctly. Since you mentioned you changed the power cord, you may want to go back and verify how you have it installed. The following link explains how to properly install an appliance cord to your dryer:<br /> <br /> <a href="http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord">http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord</a><br /> <br /> <br /> Make sure you have the wires correctly terminated at the terminal block in the back of the dryer.<br /> <br /> <br /> If the power cord is installed correctly, and the voltage at the receptacle is correct, UNPLUG the dryer and check the continuity of the power cord. Perform a resistance check from end to end to ensure the cord isn't broken.<br /> <br /> NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run with half the input voltage, but won't heat, is because the drive motor only uses 110-120VAC to run. This voltage is tapped off the source voltage. The heating circuits, however, require the full 220 service to work.<br /> <br /> If you have any questions about these procedues, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

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SAMSUNG LN52B610 TV TURNED OFF BY ITSELF. CANT TURN TV ON. NO RED LIGHT ON TV FOR POWER. OUTLET WAS CHECKED AND HAS POWER. CORD IS IN GOOD CONDITION. PLUGS FIR SNUG IN...


Hello.
If you have multimeter available you can actually check if voltage present at the end of your power cord first.
If it's OK than you have to remove back cover from your TV and locate power supply board. It's very easy - it should be next to the power cord receptacle. First look for capacitors that have bulged tops instead of flat ones. If you locate any - replace them and check if it's going to take care of problem.
Right next to receptacle connection is fuse located and you have to check if it's open. Replace it if needed. If new fuse got blown right away - you have short in power supply board. If fuse is OK - connect power cord and using multimeter try to figure out if 5V is supplied from Power supply board to the main board (the one that have all inputs attached to it). If 5V is present but power LED in front of the TV is still dead - you could have problem with main board.
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  • Plug Issue - Loose or missing connection in the wall. Defective, worn or damaged wall plug.
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If gas dryer and does not heat, Gas Dryer heats with a gas burner, make sure the gas supply line valve is open.
Also, for electric dryer,
Electric dryers require two 30 amp breakers or fuses in the house electrical box to run and heat. If one breaker is tripped or one fuse is blown, the motor, the timer and lights can work but the dryer will not heat.

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If you have unplugged the unit and performed a continuity (resistance) check from the end of the power cord to where it connects to the terminal block at the back of the appliance, then the next logical step is to perform a voltage check of the wall receptacle itself. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, but you are having connectivity issues with the appliance plugged in, the receptacle terminals may have become loose, or you may have a power cord that has a loose or broken wire. This intermittent connectivity can cause the receptacle and/or power cord to heat up and cause a fire. With the appliance unplugged, connect an ohmmeter to either end of the power cord and perform a continuity check. Move the power cord to see if the readings are constant. If you have intermittent resistance readings, you have a bad power cord. If the power cord still checks good, then I would recommend having an electrician check your wall receptacle before using the appliance again. If you still have questions, let me know. I hope this helps you.

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