Question about Whirlpool LER3624JQ Electric Dryer

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Power Suply Cord

The supply cord power and receptacle over heated. Where can I find a replacement power supply cord?

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  • HFC40 Sep 06, 2008

    Dryer is a Whirlpool LER3624JQ1.

  • HFC40 Sep 10, 2008

    Much thanks. Bought a new receptacle and the power supply cord at Home Depot. Installed both in about an hour.

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If the cord is the ONLY item you need and NOT the terminal block in the dryer, then Home Depot sells replacement cords with a molded plug attached as well as ring lugs on the opposite end for terminating them on the dryer block. You'll need to know if you are using a 3-prong or 4- prong set up in order to get the correct cord. Hope this helps..

Posted on Sep 07, 2008

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Dryer doesnt heat L1 to N is 120/ L2 to N is 3?/ L1 to L2 is 30???


Electric dryers are 240 volt. You must have a 30 amp 240v receptacle to plug it into. The cord on the dryer must have a compatible plug.
The circuit should not be shared with anything else, and should be protected with a 2-pole 30 amp circuit breaker.

It is possible for only one side of a 2-pole breaker to pop. When that happens one of the "hot" terminals would be dead and would account for the weird voltage readings you're getting which are just stray voltages from the one good side bleeding back. So Check your breaker first. You should get 120v on each terminal of the breaker and 240v between them. The cable leading from it should be 3-wire (red, black, white). It may, or may not, also have a seperate (bare) ground wire.

Then check voltages at the receptacle. You should get 120v between each hot side and the neutral, and 240v between the two hot terminals. If not, then check the wiring connections at the breaker and at the receptacle. Switch off the main breaker (or pull the disconnect) before doing that.

If voltages OK at the receptacle, but not at the control board then replace the power cord.

The ground wire should be fastened to a cold water pipe with a clamp designed for that purpose unless your power cord and receptacle have a separate (4th) terminal for the ground.




Apr 15, 2014 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer will not heat. was working fine but i moved and had to rewire a new cord on then when complete it will turn on but no heat. Is there a chance the thermal fuse needs replaced?


Verify your voltage at the wall receptacle before assuming you have a dryer problem. You should be reading 220-240VAC across the two HOT (left and right) terminals. If the voltage is not correct, you may have a breaker tripped somewhere. Most homes utilize a single dedicated 220VAC breaker for the dryer circuit. However, some older homes, may use two 120VAC breakers. So, if you are missing half your voltage, you may have a breaker tripped, or a bad receptacle.<br /> <br /> If the voltage IS correct, you may not have your power cord installed correctly. Since you mentioned you changed the power cord, you may want to go back and verify how you have it installed. The following link explains how to properly install an appliance cord to your dryer:<br /> <br /> <a href="http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord">http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord</a><br /> <br /> <br /> Make sure you have the wires correctly terminated at the terminal block in the back of the dryer.<br /> <br /> <br /> If the power cord is installed correctly, and the voltage at the receptacle is correct, UNPLUG the dryer and check the continuity of the power cord. Perform a resistance check from end to end to ensure the cord isn't broken.<br /> <br /> NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run with half the input voltage, but won't heat, is because the drive motor only uses 110-120VAC to run. This voltage is tapped off the source voltage. The heating circuits, however, require the full 220 service to work.<br /> <br /> If you have any questions about these procedues, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

Aug 24, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

My friend has dryer #LER4634JQ1,has had problems with power to the home,electician states one side of electric panel not getting current.Dryer has power,tumbles but won't heat,heating element tested OK....


Yes, an electric dryer requires 220VAC in order to heat.

I would recommend you begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). IMPORTANT: If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good at the terminal block with the dryer plugged in, you have an internal electrical problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord. Replacement power cords can be purchased at any hardware store for about $20.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, which is tapped off the input voltage. The heating circuits require the full 220-240VAC in order to work. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will run, but won't heat.

Perform these steps and post back and let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.

Mar 11, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I cant find the power plug


The question is too vague to be specific, so I will embellish on an assumption.
When you say "Power Plug", I am assuming you are referring to the power cord which is located on the back side of the dryer. If the dryer is new and there is not a power cord, most likely the dryer manufacturer shipped it w/o a power cord. This is usually installed by a licensed electrician.

Just a note, if you are a DIY and prefer to do this at your own risk, you can open the back of the dryer panel and install a new power cord yourself. When you go to the hardware store be sure to kow what type of 220v receptacle you have. You can draw a diagram of how the receptacle face plate looks and bring the drawing with you.

If you do this yourself, please make sure that all of the wiring is attached correctly and securely. A loose screw can cause your cord, breaker and heating coil to overheat!

Feb 05, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer motor turns on but Dryer won't tumble...opened the top and it appears the belt is fine. Are there two motors? One for heat and one to turn the belt?


Your dryer is equipped with one drive motor. If the belt were broke the drum would not turn. The drive portion has nothing to do with the heating circuits of the dryer, other than driving the blower fan assembly to circulate air. More than likely you have a problem in the heating circuitry, or improper voltage at the wall receptacle. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The most common cause of dryer heat related problems is poor, or improperly installed exhaust ventilation. If you haven't inspected your dryer ventilaion ducting any time recently, now might be a good time to do so. If you leave a dryer in a clogged condition, it will overheat to the point of failure. This also creates a potential fire hazard.

The voltage at the wall receptacle should be the first thing to check. Make sure you are reading 220-240VAC across the two hot leads (The LEFT and RIGHT slots). If you are only reading a portion of the voltage, this will cause the same symptoms you describe. The reason: The drive motor only uses half the input voltage to run. The heating circuits require the full 220 service.

If the voltage is bad at the receptacle, verify your breaker are set correctly. You may need an electrician to troubleshoot.

If the voltage is good at the receptacle, UNPLUG the dryer momentarily and remove the cover plate on the back of the dryer where the power cord is installed. Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. If the voltage is good at the terminal, this verifies your power cord and the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer heating circuits. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but bad at the terminal block, you have a bad power cord.

If you verify the input voltage and power cord are good, the most common fail item in the heating circuit is the thermal cut-out (TCO). This component is mounted on the heater box along with the Hi-Limit Thermostat. These two components work in conjunction to regulate the heating circuit temperature. If one or the other fails, it is recommended you replace BOTH components. They are often sold as a kit. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any components you replace.

Read through the lnk provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps you.

Jun 25, 2009 | Whirlpool LEQ9858P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Wont start till I pull on the cord to make connection.checked cord with volt meter,its o.k.help. stampvs@yahoo.com


If you have unplugged the unit and performed a continuity (resistance) check from the end of the power cord to where it connects to the terminal block at the back of the appliance, then the next logical step is to perform a voltage check of the wall receptacle itself. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, but you are having connectivity issues with the appliance plugged in, the receptacle terminals may have become loose, or you may have a power cord that has a loose or broken wire. This intermittent connectivity can cause the receptacle and/or power cord to heat up and cause a fire. With the appliance unplugged, connect an ohmmeter to either end of the power cord and perform a continuity check. Move the power cord to see if the readings are constant. If you have intermittent resistance readings, you have a bad power cord. If the power cord still checks good, then I would recommend having an electrician check your wall receptacle before using the appliance again. If you still have questions, let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jun 19, 2009 | Frigidaire Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer sparks when i push the start button.


Hello www_jaymepri,
The fact that you can see one of the wires is burnt suggests ( that it is a wire on the power cord). If that is not true, please elaborate on exactly which wire you saw that was burnt. I am assuming it is the power cord and will walk you thru changing it. First off, you need to unplug that cord from teh power receptacle. If there is any question regarding the insulation on the dryer power cord, I would encourage you to remve or disable power to the receptacle in your circuit breaker box. Once power has been disabled, unplug the dryer cord from the receptacle. Make note of the plug end and determine it is a 3 prong or 4 prong configuration. If unsure, cut that cord off the dryer and bring it with you when you get a replacement. Most home good departement stores liek Home Depot or Lowes sell replacement power cords for this very purpose. Once you get a replacement cord, slide the dryer away from the wall so that you have ample rooom to get to the back of it.
Note where the existing ( original ) cord penetrates thru the back of the dryer cabinet ( normally thru a pass thru with a cable clamp). Loosen the cable clamp screws to free the cord up and also remove the access cover near it so that you can see where it is wired in. With the cover removed, you should see a terminal block where the power cord lugs are connected. Make note of the colors associated with these connections. They are normally red, white, black and/or green. The red and black lines are the actual supply line ( power) and are commonly terminated on either side of the neutral line ( normally a white line). The green wire is normally the ground connection and is tied to the dryer frame someplace. The ground wire termination varies from mfr to mfr and model to model but the end result is that it is bonded to the frame of the dryer. So, when installing the replacement cord, pass it thru the cable clamp and over to the terminal block. Then install one wire at a time and based on the colored ends to match what you presently have. Make sure you tighten the screws that hold the wire lugs snuggly .. Loose connections here, have been known to cause resistive junctions and get hot enough to cause fires so make sure these screws are tight. Then, tighten the cable clamp so that it locks the cord in place and doesn't slide freely inside that clamp.
When all wires have been installed, plug in the cord to the receptacle and switch on the circuit breaker. Before positioning the dryer back against the wall, try running it for a minute or two without any clothes in it to make sure it operates correctly ( heats up and the drum rotates) The exhaust from electric dryers ( albeit, not healthy) can be vented into a room for a minute or two while you test things. Gas dryers should not be allowed to vent into a room. Hopefully this will resolve your problem. Feel free to send me a follow up notice if you are experiencing another problem not associated with the cord.
Regards,
Rick

Jan 05, 2009 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

GE dryer barely heating


If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, you're supposed to read 120VAC at both L1 and L2. With the cord UNPLUGGED, check the voltage across L1 and l2 at the wall receptacle. You should read a cumulative of 220-240VAC. If you're only getting 120VAC, the problem is at your receptacle, which would explain why the dryer is not heating. The heating circuits and timer require 220VAC, while the drive motor only requires 120VAC. If the power at the receptacle is good, leave the dryer unplugged and check the continuity of the power cord from the end of the plug at L2 to the terminal block at the back of the dryer. You should read a short or 0 ohms. If the continuity of the plug is good, the problem may be a loose connection at the terminal block or a broken wire. If the continuity is bad (open), then it looks like you may have a bad power cord. Please post back if you have questions. I hope this helps you.

Jan 03, 2009 | GE DVLR223 Dryers

1 Answer

Hot leg of power supply cord melted


This is almost positively caused by a poor electrical connection. If the connections at the cord to the dryer are good and tight, check the receptacle that the cord plugs into. Turn the breaker off, remove cover or receptacle, and tighten all connections. If necessary, replace the dryer receptacle along with installing a new cord.

Dec 11, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer Cord melted....


The power cord overheats and melts due to a failing power cord receptacle (the contacts loosen over time). To correct this problem, the receptacle and power cord should be replaced.

Jun 18, 2008 | Dryers

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