Question about GE Refrigerators
I have changed the mother board # ps1019640 and the unit will not automatically defrost.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
CHECK THE DEFROST HEATER FOR CONTINUITY. IF IT IS O.K. CHECK THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL FOR A FAULTY SOLDER CONNECTION ON THE DEFROST RELAY. THE ELECTRONIC BOARD SHOULD BE LOCATED ON THE BACK WALL OF THE REFIGERATOR BEHIND AN ACCESS PANEL.
Posted on Apr 10, 2008
The drive output - solid state relay maybe a thyristor - is short and is continuously heating the element thus burning it off.
The element is supposed to heat only for a specific period of time. The motherboarrd must be taken out to confirm the shorting of the thyristor/SCR.
replace with the same type and it will only swittch on when the microprocessor timer signals a bias to turn it on.
Posted on Aug 30, 2010
This is how the defrost works . I have NEVER found a defrost problem associated with a bad main control board since these computerized GE's came out in 2000 . Lots of thermistor problems , lying to the board , causing different problems .
Your GSS model refrig does not have a defrost timer . It works off of the main control board . Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .
Posted on Aug 31, 2010
Two posibe reasons.
First the defrost heater is damage and need to be replaced. This is the most frequent problem and heater cost only about $32.
Second most serious but rear is the electronic control board is faulty and does not give the instruction or power to heater to heat up and melt frost. Need to be replace this is ruther expensive part about $132.
Posted on Sep 29, 2010
Replace the thermistors #4 and #5 . 4 is the white bullet looking piece on top of the coils inside the freezer , with 2 white wires . 5 is at the bottom of the freezer , on the left side . These thermistors tell the main board , the temp and the board goes into defrost according to temp the thermistors "tell it " .
Posted on Aug 16, 2012
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