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There is a hole just above the grass trimming head that you can slip a screw driver into. Turn the head so that the inner and outer holes align where you can put a screw driver or other hard steel object in. Put it in there and then turn the head counter clock wise until it comes off, it may take a little effort to get it to move, but you should be able to do this with your hands. Once you get the trimmer head off, put the blade on and hopefully you still have the nut and washer accessories to hold the blade in place. You will need to place your screw driver back in the alignment hole to hold the head from spinning while you tighten the blade nut back down. Make sure it is tight, you don't want that blade coming off at ~10,000 rpm!
Usually this is a clutch problem, the clutch is under the drum and when it engages turns the drum which turns the drive shaft which turns the trimmer head. If the drum is not turning than it is the clutch, if the clutch is turning the drive shaft could be broke, if the drive shaft is not broke than the problem would be in the gears of the trimmer head.
the inner shaft could have broken, which is the case a lot when using the blade vs the string remove the shaft from the motor, and spin the inner rod and see if the blade turns, if it does check the end of the rod and see if its damaged in anyway , if the blade doesn't spin, the shaft has broken and will need replacement
you will need to pull the head off, as it sounds like the cable is off. there should be four bolts/screws, there maybe some in the middle also, gently remove the head(this is the top of the trimmer where the pull cord is, once you have it separated you can turn the cable by hand and the line feeder should rotate, if it does then look inside the head and make sure it is still square and not rounded. or you can pull the line feeder off and pull the cord and see if the cable rotates, whichever you feel comfortable with trying. Good Luck Tim
If the unit has a clutch, it will spin up to the crankshaft of the engine. Try to grip the top part with something to hold it..if there is an arbor there, it can be jammed in place by inserting a small blade screwdriver in one of the holes, If the unit has no clutch (but it probably does), you would remove the spark plug...rotate the engine so the piston is down, and insert a lenth of clean soft rope in the engine so that when you turned the whole drive and crank, the engine would lock up compressing the rope allowing you to remove the head assembly.
It here are holes in the arbor of the gear drive (above the string-head) insert a small Phillips screwdriver or the equivalent to jam it and turn the string head off. If not, you will have to go further up the shaft to where the split boom separates and lock up the end of the flex drive there to keep it from turning. Rotation to get it off should be the normal (counterclockwise) looking down at it with the unit flipped over.
If you bought the trimmer new there should be a rod about 6" long and 1/8" thick. Above the trimmer head below the trimmer gearbox there is a hole. You have to put the rod in that hole and turn the head until that locks it from turning.
From there you can screw the trimmer head off by hand, or a strap wrench if it's really tight. It may be left hand threads.
you can try to drive something between the blade and the washer (like screwdriver) to create more friction or try holding the washer with channel locks might have left hand threads and you are actually trying to tighten. if that doesnt work probably need an impact wrench. Go to a auto repair or tire shop with mechanic and give them a few dollars for luch or dinner and let them try with air tools
The Metal Clamp referenced clamps directly on the end of the '2-Piece Gear Box Assembly'. The gear box assembly is an aluminum casting held together by 3 machine screws. The Metal Clamp does not actually lock the drive shaft housing into the gearbox assembly. The flexible drive shaft cable engages the engine output shaft, and the gear box assembly. This is a fixed length (non-adjustable) assembly.
First ensure that the drive shaft assembly is fully engaged at the quick connect fitting and that the "snap" is engaged. Then make sure the knob is fully tightened. The quick connect allows you to quickly switch between various attachments offered on this unit.
Now, based on your description, it sounds like the 'anti-rotation screw' 791-182519 has backed out or is gone. This will allow the entire cutting assembly (gearbox forward) to slip off of the drive shaft housing and disengage the flexible drive shaft. If your cutting assembly is attempting to rotate while in operation, or the drive is not engaged as you described.
Do not continue to operate the unit until you get this fixed as you could strip out the drive shaft end or cause other serious damage to the equipment or yourself.
If it is the anti-rotation screw, then make sure to push the drive shaft housing firmly into the gear box and ensure to align the holes in the drive shaft housing and the gear box. If the screw is lost, then find one similar sized, but be CERTAIN that it is not too long as it will actually engage the flexible drive shaft and prevent rotation, or cut the drive shaft.
Back to the clamp: If it is still wanting to move, then remove the lock nut and place slightly oversized washers on the bolt head and the lock nut. This will force more pressure (does not take much) on the clamp and will lock it down.
I just fixed mine today (071809) in fact and had to drill a new hole in the drive shaft housing as the original was completely wallowed out.