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There are only two possible things that it could be. The compressor or the fan motor. The compressor is self contained and cannot be serviced. You just replace the whole thing. The fan motor can be replaced.
Verify proper line voltage to the unit and compressor prior to any further testing, and correct if found below normal. I would check the amp draw thru the compressor circuit. the compressor may very well be "locked rotor" and be pulling a high amp draw. that magic number for locked rotor amps should be listed on the compressor nomenclature plate as "lra". the compressor may not be pulling any amps if the windings are burnt though, as their will not be any flow of power through the device. best of luck, ttfn
The fan and the compressor both run off of the same circuit. Have your husband remove the cover on the condenser coils and check for power at the leads that go to the compressor off of the latching relay. If there is power there, then he needs to check the start capacitor or possibly the thermal overload switch (mounted on side of compressor)
DOES THE HOUSE FEEL DRIER IF IT IS 80 OUTSIDE WITH ALOT OF HUMIDITY THE UNIT WILL RUN FOR A LONG TIME TO REMOVE THE MOISTURE(HUMIDITY) OUT OF THE HOUSE BEFORE TEMP DROPS DRAMATICALLY IS THERE WATER COMING OUT OF THE DRAIN PIPE OUTSIDE
I am assuming that you are talking about a central ac unit. On a central air unit the outside fan must be running whenever the compressor is. If it's not the compressor will shut off from overheating withing minutes. First you need to shut off the unit for several hours and let it cool completely down. Then turn it on briefly to see if the compressor starts and see if the fan tries to start.( I am assuming the compressor starts and runs.) If the fan won't start try testing the capacitors. There are usually two one for the fan one for the compressor. Sometimes there will be one combo one. Mark the wires and remove the capacitor. Get it tested and if bad replace it. This will probably do the job. If not test for current at the fan motor. Also test to see if it turns freely. The motor may need to be replaced. This will run about $50. The capacitor should always be replaced when the motor is changed anyway.
A burned or pitted contactor will/can cause a unit to not run. Outside fan. Just thinking out loud. Start with low voltage check at t.stat then check outside low volt. Set t.stat to on. If fan engages at least your transformer is good. Next set calling for cool. Drop t.stat 68-70. If nothing happens go outside and with a screwdriver depress the contactor in. If fan and compressor kicks in change the contactor. If contactor is pulled in check outside fan. Remove the wires from the compressor and see if the fan will run . If it does you have eliminated start components as good. The compressor has to be check. It needs to be ohmed out. Turn off power at disconnect. Pull the cover on the compressor. Check between pins; then pins to ground. Open or infinite is good.Have you checked fuses. Like small 3-5 amp fuses