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Re: need to know
I would recommend running a four channel amplifier using component speakers up front and co-axial speakers in the rear. You can add more speakers up front, but it depends on what you're trying to accomplish in your car. Do you want it louder? Do you want it clearer? Any system will benefit from an amplifier. More power to your speakers will give you better sound because you'll have more accurate control over the speaker cone. This extra power will result in better clarity, not only at high volume, but low volume too.
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You have to check the ohms of the speakers all spekers should be 8 Ohms or above. if not it will overload the amplifier at high level. The minium ohms impedence of the amplifier is 4 ohms. If you connect two 8 ohms speakers together then the effective ohms will be 4 OHMS then the amp will handle the speakers. If you connect two 4 ohms spekers together then the effective ohms will be 2 Ohms, this will overload the amplifier. You will be able to connect two 8 ohms speaker to left channel or right channel of the amplifier. Check the speaker spesifiction to know its ohms. Make sure all the speakers have an impedence of 8 OHMS or above
The 600 watt rating is FAKE like most of our advertising and will be either 600 watts PEAK or 600 watts PROGRAM. If it is Peak, use an amplifier with no more than 100 watts a side RMS... If it is program rating use an amp with no more than 150 watts a side RMS but that is pushing it for speaker safety. Also pay attention to the spec of the amp as to what it will output at the impedance of the speakers. I read the spec on the speakers... they are rated 150 watts RMS, NOT 600 watts... Use an amp rated at 150 watts RMS MAXIMUM at 4 ohms per side. Also don't turn up the bass excessively or you be buying new speakers. Twelve inch speakers would be adequate for a 20 by 20 room at SAFE listening levels. If you want driving bass, you need to get an 18 inch subwoofer.
My advice would be to connect the front speakers and the sub woofer to the amplifier and run the remaining rear 2 speakers from the headunit. This way you dont stress the amplifier to run on two different loads at the same time and still maintane control over your system. Bridge your sub woofer on chanel 3&4 and do not forget to set the LPF for chanel 3&4. If your speakers are not components in the front set the HPF on chanel 1&2 to roughly 60 to 80 Htz.
The Punch P3001 is a 2 ohm stable monoblock amplifier. It therefore has only 1 channel. Not bridgeable.
Below are the specs off the rockford site.
Punch P3001 - 300 watt mono amplifier
150x1 @ 4 ohms, 300x1 @ 2 ohms, 12dB/oct HP/AP/LP crossover variable 40-400Hz, RCA inputs, RCA pass thrus, cast aluminum heatsink, military spec PCB, and remote Punch Bass EQ with 0-18dB @ 45Hz. H 2.4" x W 11" x L 11.7"
If you are using your amplifier at a 4 ohm impedance then you will only have 150 Watt delivered to your woofer or woofers. If you are running your amplifier at a 2 Ohm load you will be recieving 300 Watt to them. This however will also draw more current to deliver this power.
If you are certain that you can deliver the correct current to the amplifier and you are running a 4 Ohm configuartion. Then consult a Rockford delaer for a sub upgrade.
I would strongly recommend that you get a 5 channel amp that puts out 75watts rms per channel that will deliver between 200-300 watts to the sub channel. I use planet audio amps myself and they run strong all day every day-maybe you could look at a planet audio vrx 600.5(5-channel) it throws 100w x4 and 200 or 300 to the subs depending on the resistance of the sub. Good luck
You are probably aware on how to use these output figures, but I'll write a quick explanation on the specifications for future readers anyways :)
The concpet CC-452 amplifier has the following power output specifications:
Calculated at 14.5 volts DC;
At 4 ohms per channel - 45 watts x 2 (RMS)
At 2 ohms per channel - 70 watts x 2 (RMS)
At 4 ohms bridged - 150 watts x 1 (RMS)
This means that your amplifier would provide 45 watts of power each for your front speakers, which are normally a 4 ohm load per side (45 watts for left, 45 watts for right), that's unless they are one of those exotic higher end brands (eg: Boston Z6s which are 3 ohms). Rarely, you will find speakers that are rated at 2 ohms per side, but in this instance the amplifier will provide 70 watts of power into each speaker. On your speaker specifications, you will find a value termed "nominal impedance" which will give you the ohm rating of the speakers being used..
On the other hand, if you "bridge" both channels into a single channel (using a diagram often marked on the speaker terminals of the amp), you could then provide 150 watts into a subwoofer (providing it was a 4 ohm woofer).
It's not recommended to use this amp bridged under 4 ohms..
Some subwoofers may be lower than 4 ohms, and you will not be able to use this amplifier for these types of speakers without risking amplifier failure. Also, some subwoofers may have 2 seperate voice coils, and you will have to use both channels of the amplifier seperately (not bridged) in order to correctly connect this type of speaker for use.
400 watts delivered to 300 watt speakers the only way to do this would be to wire two subwoofers in series so that the power needed to drive them will be 600 watts to max, however this will increase your impedance on the speaker (8 ohms) load so what you can do to compensate is get an 8 ohm 600 watt resistor and put it in parallel with the speakers you will then have 4 ohms of impedance at a total capacity of 600 watts of power
In other words the amplifier won't blow these out now.