When I start the dryer cycle, either timed or other, the burner ignites and heats up for the first 5 minutes or so, then there is no heat for the rest of the cycle. The dryer tumbles fine, but only air dries after the first 5 minutes. I cleaned the vent and tube, and replaced the thermal fuse, but it did not solve the problem. I have a multi-tester and could check the thermostats and coils for the gas valve operation. Can you help?
The problem with your dryer is that the gas flame comes on first few times then quits and igniter keeps cycling on and off but never lets the gas go. Replace the coils on the Gas Valve.
Also ckeck the glow bar igniter, thermalfuse ( if there ) ,gas valve ,thermostats ,motor heat switch,timer selector switch or the sensor ...
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
so from the above illustration its the timer and the thermostat thats faulty
It can be a faulty gas flame sensor that is cutting off the gas, or a faulty thermostat.
Here is a genereic diagram for a gas dryer.
Obviously your gas valve is working, but I'm wondering if you have low gas pressure coming into the appliance or low voltage. Check the voltage at the coils during the first 5 minutes when the gas is on. The question is whether the gas valve is telling the gas to shut off due to high temperature or whether the gas valves are shutting off prematurely. Make sure the thermostat is correctly positioned and has no visible damage.
No heat
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Igniter
Gas valve coils
Thermal fuse
Igniter
Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.
The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.
Gas valve coils
Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
replacment parts available at
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/...
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Q - Dryer takes too long to dry or multiple times to dry a load
A1- Pull the dryer out away from the wall. Unhook the vent from the dryer completely. Do not put anything over the dryer exhaust on the back of the dryer. Do a normal load with the vent unhooked. If it dries better or ok like this then the problem is in the dryer venting. Like a blocked vent pipe or a smashed or restricted vent hose.
A2 - If the vent doesn't make a difference, then check the blower wheel for excessive lint build up, check that there isn't anything stuck to the air intake baffle inside the drum, (i.e. the screen on the back wall of the dryer when looking into the drum). Check the lint filter chute for blockage. Check that the heating element isn't shorted to ground. Check the exhaust temperature of the dryer. A meat or pocket thermometer can be used for this. It should cycle approx between 120 degrees and 160 degrees ( without clothes ). Check that the drum seals are not worn out.
Quick info tips....
Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats, motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Can my new dryer be side vented?
Dryer tips - Tip # 1 - Tip # 2 - Tip # 3 - Tip# 4
FAQ's for dryers
Gas dryers only, no heat problems and odd smell complaints
GE, Hotpoint, Moffat, McClary, RCA dryers
General dryer information - How to change a 3 prong plug to a 4 prong plug, venting information and much more...
How dryers work
How old is my appliance help for some of today's major manufactures
Magic Chef, Norge, American Admiral, Maytag Performa dryers
Maytag Dependable Care and Atlantis dryers
Noise tip for washers and dryers
Westinghouse, Frigidaire Dryers
Whirlpool, Inglis, most *Kenmore dryers
*Own a Kenmore? Department stores brands can be a pain as it is difficult to figure out which manufacture has made your product. This link here should help to find out which manufacture has made your Kenmore Appliance.
Repair manuals can be ordered here: Appliance Repair manuals
thanks.
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check point number 16 -Basic electrical tests and information
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When I start the dryer cycle, either timed or other, the burner ignites and heats up for the first 5 minutes or so, then there is no heat for the rest of the cycle. The dryer tumbles fine, but only air dries after the first 5 minutes. I cleaned the vent and tube, and replaced the thermal fuse, but it did not solve the problem. I have a multi-tester and could check the thermostats and coils for the gas valve operation. Can you help?
What voltages or readings should I look for the coils or thermostat(s)?
What voltage or ohms reading am I looking for to see if the flame sensor, or thermostat are not functioning properly? One of the solutions suggested that these components are possible causes for the problem.
Not completely, I need to know how to diagnose if the flame sensor or thermostat are not functioning correctly. What voltage test or continuity tests are required?
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