The rear foot brake bar has plastic casings on either side which hold a metal pin which, when the brake is engaged, then slots into the grooves of the wheels. One of these plastic casings has split which has made the brake unreliable. I'd be grateful if anyone knows of a (UK based) solution.
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Stow the seats. Lift up the panel that rises into place of the third row seats. Note the two slots on bottom of panel. Fold the metal bar back, careful its spring loaded like a mouse trap. While holding the bar down, lower the panel and engage the two pins into slots.
This switch is usually on the metal airhorn behind the black plastic air duct. It is attached to the side opposite of where the accelerator cables control the butterfly flap for the throttle.
There are 2 mounting screws holding it to the casing and 1 electric lead to disconnect. The only thing technical about fitting this part is to align the slot and groove of the throttle plate shaft which operates it. And look at the elongnated mounting slot in the switch and replace it in the same position.
I have a Samsung SU2920. The pedal has broken. Spare is available on espares. To remove the broken pedal: Turn the machine over and locate the foot pedal side near a rear wheel. Operate the pedal to see how it is held in place by a moulded pin which is captured by two lugs on the underside of the body. Use a torch to get some light in there.
Insert a thin blade on either side to bend the plastic lugs slightly so that the moulded pin on the foot pedal can slide upwards without being held by the lugs. The pedal will not slide up easily. I used a hammer and a metal bar to tap it free. Once the pedal is removed, the spare can be clicked into place from the top without tools.
If I'm thinking about the right thing, the clevis that is attached to the rear brake lever that the rod that goes to the rear brake master cylinder connects to, the clevis should have a pin connecting it to the rear brake lever. On the backside of the pin is either a cotter pin or a circlip holding the pin in. You may have to take the rear brake lever off to access the circlip or cotter pin.
I did not have to disassemble at all. Thanks to your comments. I just took off the wheel with the stuck pin; gripped the pin with large pliers and a tight grip; pulled slightly outward while turning pin. Did this a couple times and the pin shot back into place!
For starters, set the cable adjustment back to the original setting. We in the States have something similiar called an Hombre. Follow the instructions for adjustings the rear brakes FIRST. Once these have been adjusted, if the brake will still not hold, then and only then, adjust the cable setting a couple of turns at a time until at least 3 - 5 clicks are achieved when setting the parking/emergency (depending on where you are in the world) brake. Let me know if you need anything further.
REAR DRUM BRAKES
See Figure 1
Normal adjustments of the rear drum brakes are automatic and are made during the reverse applications of the brakes. The following procedure should be used ONLY if the linings have been replaced.
Fig. Fig. 1: Drum brake adjustment
Raise and support the rear of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
Using a punch and a hammer on the rear of the backing plates, knock out the lanced metal areas near the starwheel assemblies on each plate. The metal areas may already have been removed and covered with rubber adjustment plugs, if so remove the plugs by grasping and pulling with a pair of pliers.
After knocking out the lanced metal areas from the backing plate, the wheels must be removed and all of the metal pieces discarded, then the wheels should be reinstalled for adjustment.
Insert a suitable brake adjustment tool such as J-4735 or equivalent, into the breaking plate slots and engage the lowest possible tooth on the starwheel. Move the end of the brake tool downward to move the starwheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the wheels can JUST be turned by hand. This is a position immediately before the brakes lock.
The brake drag should be equal at both wheels.
Back off the adjusting screws 24 notches (clicks). By the time you have backed off the adjustment 12 clicks, the brakes should have no drag. If a heavy drag is still present, the parking brake cable is likely in need of adjustment.
Make sure both sides of the brakes are properly adjusted. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the adjusting lever must be backed off the same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
After the brakes are adjusted, install a rubber hole cover into each of the backing plate slots. To complete the brake adjustment operation, make several stops while backing the vehicle to fully equalize the adjustment.
Yes there is a nut on the backside of the stud that the peg mounts to. The stud is also the shaft for the rear brake pedal. To get to the nut, take the master cylinder loose and the snap ring that holds the rear brake pedal on or the remove the pin from the brake pedal. Now, take the large nut below the peg and brake pedal shaft off and the other two bolts that hold the front sprocket cover on. Remove the cover and you can get to the nut.
For removing or adding links firstly you will have to remove bracelet pins or screws. In case if there are screw on each side of bracelet - you have to use two screwdrivers simultaneously. In case if there are pins - read the rest: You may or may not have arrows inside bracelet. Arrows are pointing the way the pins must come out. First you have to find out what sort of pins or even screws are used to keep links together (screw ends and pin end may look similar). Examine both bracelet sides and find the side where pin ends have a groove. Start with a tiny screwdriver and try to unscrew one. If it turns, but doesn't come out, that means you have a pins instead of screws. For removing pins the best would be pin removing tool (approx.5GBP on ebay), but it's possible to do the job without it. Take a hardened steel needle and blunt the sharp end to the approx. size of pin end diameter using any sharpening stone or sandpaper. Get an old towel and fold it to make a soft base for work (like small cusion). As you don't have a special bracelet holder you will need a pair of helping hands to hold the bracelet steady upright. You will need small hammer and pair of flat nose pliers as well. NOTE: The pins MUST be driven split end out first, not vice versa. Make sure that the grooved pin ends are facing towel, not the needle and hammer. Now place the watch on the folded towel, take that needle and smallest hammer you have and start driving the pin out using light blows. Do Not hit hard, as you will brake the needle, scratch your watch or even injure yourself. Watchmakers are using 45 gram hammer, so, calculate your strength of blows. After a few punches check if the split end is coming out and when you see that the pin end is coming out long enough - grab it with pliers and pull the pin out with pliers. When pulling, do NOT turn pliers, as pins tend to brake when twisted. Use firm grip and your strength to pull the pin without twisting. After shortening the bracelet or adding extra link(s) make sure that the pins go back EXACTLY the same way as they came out- the blunt end first in the hole and the split (grooved) end last. Before doing that check remaining pins in bracelet to make sure that you put them back from the right side of bracelet. It is recommended to use plastic hammer to drive pins back in or you will scratch or damage bracelet. If plastic hammer is not available use an old toothbrush handle (or some plastic item) as an absorber. Simply put pin into the hole as deep as you can with your fingers, put the toothbrush handle on split pin end and hit handle, not the pin. Make sure that pin ends are flush with bracelet. If needed- hit few more times. Job done! If you do not want to do it yourself, any jeweler will do it in a matter of few minutes
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION It is a good idea to only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other side intact as a reference.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the brake drum.
Disconnect the parking brake rear cable and conduit.
Remove the brake shoe hold-down springs and brake shoe hold-down pins.
Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw spring.
Remove the brake shoe adjusting lever and adjuster screw.
Remove the brake shoe retracting spring.
Remove the brake shoes from the backing plate.
Remove and discard the parking brake lever clip. Remove the washer.
Remove the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe.
Thoroughly clean the backing plate with brake cleaning solvent and dry completely.
Use silicone grease to lubricate the brake backing plate-to-brake shoe contact areas.
Apply a light coating of premium grease to the threaded areas of the adjuster. Turn the adjuster in and out to spread the lubricant. Turn the adjuster all the way down on the screw and loosen one-half turn.
Install the parking brake lever to the rear (secondary) brake shoe with a new clip.
Position the brake shoes on the backing plate and install the brake shoe hold-down springs.
Attach the parking brake rear cable and conduit to the parking brake lever.
Attach the brake shoe retracting spring.
The socket end of the brake adjuster screw is stamped with "R" or "L" to indicate that it is to be installed either on the right (passenger's side) or left (driver's side) of the vehicle. The adjuster nuts can be distinguished by the number of grooves machined around the body of the nut. Two grooves indicate a right-hand adjuster nut and one groove indicates a left-hand adjuster nut. Another way to identify brake adjuster assemblies is to check thread pitch. The right side adjuster assembly has right-hand threads and the left side has left-hand threads. If installed correctly, the brake adjuster assembly will increase in length when the brake shoe adjusting lever is operated.
Install brake adjuster screw in the slots on the brake shoes. The wider slot on the socket end must fit in the slot on the front (primary) brake shoe.
Install the brake shoe adjusting lever on the lever pin.
Install the brake adjusting screw in the slot on the secondary brake shoe and in the slot on the brake shoe lever. The brake shoe adjusting lever should contact the brake adjuster screw.
Adjust the brake shoes.
Install the drums.
The drum brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation. Drum Installed
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
Insert a Brake Adjustment Tool (D81L-1103-C) or equivalent into the slot and engage the lowest possible tooth on the starwheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the starwheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheels.
Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjusting lever out and free of the starwheel on the adjusting screw and hold it there.
Engage the topmost tooth possible on the starwheel with the brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the adjusting screw starwheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back off the adjusting screw starwheel until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of turns that the starwheel is backed off, or the number of strokes taken with the brake adjusting spoon.
Repeat this operation for the other side. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the starwheel adjuster must be backed off the same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
When the brakes are adjusted, make several stops while backing the vehicle to equalize the brakes on both of the wheels.
Lower the vehicle.
See Figure 2
Fig. Fig. 2: When using a brake adjustment gauge, first measure the inside diameter of the drum (top) and then adjust the brakes shoes to the proper outside diameter (bottom)
Remove the brake drum.
Make sure that the shoe-to-contact pad areas are clean and properly lubricated.
Using a Brake Adjustment Gauge (D81L-1103-A) or equivalent, check the inside diameter of the drum.
Measure across the diameter of the assembled brake shoes, at their widest point.
Turn the adjusting screw so that the diameter of the shoes is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the brake drum inner diameter.
Install the drum.
See Figure 3
Fig. Fig. 3: Measure brake shoe thickness in several places around the shoe
Inspect the brake shoes for wear using a ruler or Vernier caliper. Compare measurements to the brake specifications chart. If the lining is thinner than specification or there is evidence of the lining being contaminated by brake fluid or oil, replace all brake pad assemblies (a complete axle set).