Unit was installed new 01/06/2004. Have replaced to date compressor contactor six times. The 6th time was September 5, 2008, yesterday. Coleman model # DRCQ361BEG Serial # WOB5625998. Contactor # S113 2 pole24V. Had commercial insect coverage with monthly spraying to keep ants out of unit, that did not work either. This has become very expensive, please help.
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A 3.5-ton Carrier CK....OK the run capacitor will be a 370 volt variety, likely 20 bucks tops....given that this is SINGLE capacitor dedicated to the compressor ONLY. A BIT more if (as is likely) it is a 3-terminal compressor/condenser motor capacitor. I assume you mean 'contactor' and this toy should be another $30+/- $5. (Hopefully the diagnosis you got was correct!) That aside, MOST folks in the residential realm use some sort of "flat-rate" system. Replacing the capacitor is ONE job and the contactor is another. If this is a commercial property (OR if you are aligned with a commercial entity), look for a contractor that will make the repair on a "time and materials" basis. One trip, 2 parts...time element should be MINIMAL. Good luck!
there are 3 things to be considered,first,if the compressor motor `s connectors are having loose,it gives a hi ampere to your RELAY that can cause to its contacts being fried,second,the compressor motor itself is gaining a hi ampere already i.e. having unusual sound that can cause heavy friction inside the turning mechanism and third the last but not the least,maybe this time,the tubes or the compressor itself having very small holes that causes to the refrigerant to escape and it doesn`t gives off cold air.
Your unit uses both the capacitor and a contactor (relay) to start your compressor and motor. With the indications you are giving it would either be the capacitor or the contactor - and since you have already changed the cap - then replace the contractor!
NOTE: We always recommend that you change the capacitor and relay at the same time, because they seem to fail at about the same time.
Sounds like the contactor may be pitted or could even have bugs or ants in it. The contactor is the automatic switch located in the outdoor unit. The power coming in to the unit will be tied in to this switch. This switch is operated by the thermostat and has contacts that make the circuit when the thermostat come on. Sometimes these contact will pit and be worn out causing the electricity not to flow to the air cond. Other times ants like to crawl up in to these contacts and cause the electricity not to flow to the unit. A contactor is not expensive, but if you take yours off to get a new one, take a picture of it before you unwire it and even make a schematic so you will know where to put the wires back. Hope this helps.
Open the control box and see if you have around 220-240V at the bottom of the contactor. The contactor is the switch looking thing in the bottom. If the unit is calling for air it should have a button in the middle that is pulled in. If you are not getting the volts at the contactor then you need to find the electrical problem. If you have the correct voltage then look and see if the contactor is connected. The middle button should be pulled in. If you have one where you are unable to see the button, or it is not pulled in, Check the low voltage wiring. This is done by checking to see if there are 24V-28V on the side terminals of the contatcor. These terminals are located on the sides of the contactor. (some contactors have both sides of the 24V on one side.) Either way you should read 24-28V when checking across the two terminals. If you do not then you have a problem with the control wiring. (cut with weed eater, chewed by mouse etc.) I know the 24V coil is good because the inside unit is running. If the contactor is pulled in and the outdoor unit still does not run check and see if there is power at the other end of the contactor. (The end the switch breaks off) If the switch is pulled in (or you read 24- 28V on the side of the contactor, and there is 240 V coming in on the line. Chances are you need to replace the contactor. Disconnect the power and pull one wire at a time of of the old contactor and install it on the new. After all of the wires are on the new one, remove the old contactor and throw it away. Screw the new contactor with all of the wires back onto the unit. restore power. Often times in our part of the country, there will be ants stuck in the points of the contactor. Just cleaning the contactor will buy more time. Hope this helps.
Check your yellow pages find a contractor who will offer free second opion on compressor failors, better yet try to find one that is a rheem dealer. If the compressor does turn out to be bad he can turn in the model and serial # to find the installation date. In most cases warranty info does start day of contractor purchase unless owner fills out and mails in warranty card. But neverless warranty ticks away while house sits unsold. Compressor does not have to be a direct replacement most any brand of compressor ( of proper capacity) will work in there but may have to do a little retrofit. Should be no problem. As for price replacing a compressor is very expensive. About the most expensive thing to replace. It is definetly easier and quicker to just change out the unit. Get a few quotes keep in mind after replacing comressor some other part of unit could go bad costing more money.
If the out door fan keeps running and the compressor cycles off that would be the overload in the compressor.
What keeps the windings cool is the refrigerant back to the compressor.
For the overload to cycle it would have to be either not enough cooling back to the compressor or high amp draw, which could be the metering device (txv or orifice) or low on charge, or other things would be a bad capacitor, sometimes a bad start relay not staying open, when compressor gets up to speed or anything causing the compressor to draw high amps.
To check the refrigerant, he needs to check the superheat at the compressor it should be appoximately 12° to15°, and next time the compressor goes off if you shut the power off and feel the top of the compressor and if it's hot 130° or higher it's probably refrigerant.
By saying the condenser fan is not working as well, I have to ask is
the contactor making any kind of noise?. If the contactor is not making
noise, look for some smaller wires going to the contactor. These are
the low voltage wires that send 24 volts to the contactor. Make sure
the thermostat is turned on, set it for a temperature lower than the
current room temperature. Are you getting voltage to the contactor? If
the answer is no check the W wire at the air handler and at the
thermostat. The G wire runs the inside blower only. This is why you can
put the fan in the ON position and not have the compressor running all
the time. If you are getting voltage at the contactor turn the power
back on at the compressor, take a sturdy insultaded rod, very dry wood
or plastic remember electricity can kill damp wood can conduct
electricity. Look for a small bump in the center of the contactor.
Press it with the rod and see if the compressor turns on. If it turns
on when you press this point on the contactor and off when you release
it then the low voltage side of the the contractor is bad. If the bump
is pulled in and the unit is not running take the multimeter and
carefully check to see if your are getting 240 volts across the two
bottom connections and then 240 volts across the top of the
connections. If you are getting 240 volts on one side only the the
contactor is bad and you need a new one. Turn off ALL POWER this is the
breakers for both the compressor and the furnace. Again make sure the
power is off. Make a diagram of the wire positions, then disconnect
them. Remove the contactor and take it to an electrical supplier or an
HVAC parts supplier and get a new one. Reinstall it and reconnect the
wires. Turn the power back on and everything should be working again.