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Re: SHUTS IT SELF OFF
You may be using 4 ohm speakers on an 8 ohms rated amplifier, or you
are trying to play the amp excessivly loud for its design apability,
or the amp is not strong enough for the speakers, or there is a fault condition where the output stage is pulling too much power, and the protection circuit is kicking in, because of one of these faults. It is also possible that the protection circuit has a fault condition.
A quick test,though. Disconnect ALL speaker wires from the receiver. Turn on the receiver - if the volume increase makes it cut off, the problem is definitely in the receiver.
You should give the amp to a qualified shop that has the proper test
equipment to properly diagnose the amp for its power rating over the
complete designed response, and do an evalution of its dynamic head
room and dynamic range, to see if it meets specs.
If something is out of specs, then it can be serviced.
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You need a jack-2cinch (differen name is jack to 2 RCA) cable. Jack goes to your iPod's phones output, cinch/RCA to amplifier (connect it to CD or DVD analog section at the back). While playing set volume to 50% to avoid distorted sound. This way you can connect any MP3 player to your amplifier.
I'm not sure what kind of an answer you are looking for. If you are not qualified to do some soldering rework and ready to spend some money (could be as much as 50$) for parts, you better look for a professional service that in most cases will cost as mush (or more) as your receiver.
If you are still reading then here you are. This is a common symptom of a blown hybrid amplifier IC caused by shorting speaker output while it's powered on. There are two protection circuits for amplifier output, Overload and DC output. In your case, most probably, DC output protection is the one that shuts down amplifier to prevent further damage. Find schematics (service manual). To confirm this, look for amplifier inputs connector, measure DC DET. signal, normally it should be around +4.85V. If right after power up it goes down to almost 0V, then it is for sure a blown output on a Hybrid IC. Check whether receiver shuts down with that cable unplugged. If not than get ready to do some rework.
There are two big Hybrid amplifier ICs, one that outputs two channels (usually front left and front right) and 3 channels (for the rest). One of the outputs (if not more) one one of them (if not both) is blown. In most of the 5.1 Pioneer receivers 2 channel IC is PAC010A and 3 channel one is PAC011A. If you want to get original parts and will find those for less then 40$ each you are lucky. There are however cheaper replacements from SANYO, those you can find for around 10-15$.
Find schematics, unsolder resistors one by one that connect AMP outputs to DC detection circuit on each IC and check which one is blown. There are 2 for 2 channel one and 3 for the other. Usually if one output is blown all others on the same IC are blown.
There could be a chance that only one channel on IC is blown, if you want to fix it you still need to replace whole IC. Also, instead of spending on new IC you may want to sacrifice one working channel (center for example) to output the blown one (so you'll get 4.1 :) ).
This sounds like a problem in at least one channel of the power amplifier. Only an experienced audio technician should attempt to repair this problem. It is not an obvious or easy fault for a novice to diagnose or repair. ie, you have a situation in which the unit seems to function at low power levels, but the problem become apparent at higher power levels.
Sounds like the music amplifier is different to the tuner audio amp. The music amplifier is now looking at an unbalanced impedance which is less than it should be. Therefore the output chip of the music amp has more current through it than it wants so it gets hot and shuts down.Put a four ohm wirewound resistor ( from Radio Shack ) in series with each surround speaker to reduce the current flow through the amplifier output.
1. Short in the wire, speaker, or amplifier
2. Amplifier malfunction
3. Overload of the amplifier
4. Overload of the speaker
Listening to audio at loud levels requires more power obviously. But the speakers and amplifier may not be rated or capable to handle it due to age or design.
Your receiver is basically going into protect mode.
Just check your speaker cabling again. Make sure that all of them are seated properly, none is touching each other or the body of receiver. Take out all the wire and put them back again if necessary.. Some times even a little tiny frayed wire touching the receiver could trigger the protect mode. Be careful, since protect mode is sometimes not fast enough and it could blown a few trasistors in the power circuit. Just check your speaker as well....whether they play all right thru another receiver or amplifier. its posiible they might be shorting inside. A little frayed wire could also trigger the protect circuit in your receiver. I hope this should solve your problem.
If everything else seems all right and still your receiver shut down when you raise the volume then it possible that there are bad connections on the main board that are set in.
This would generally happen if the system is slighly old or have dry solder and when you raise up the volume. This should be a simple repair that will not require parts. If you can solder, you will be able to repair this yourself. If not, then a local service center will change the local labor rate.
Hope you can sort out your problem with the above trouble shooting. Let me know if I can guide you further. Best of luck! Thanks for using FixYa!
i had the volume of the multi-zone tuned too high and was attenuating it in an external control box. Once i took the multi-zone volume down to -25db, the problem went way. My main zone was operating around -35db so did not have the problem.
I bought my RXV800 in late 2001. This amplifier is absolutely fabulous and I understand others -like me- being unhappy when it starts to fail. I have the volume control issue as well, it started to work normal for at least 5 years, then there was a period of 1 year that the volume neither went up or down when you turn the volume control and then finally a 3rd phase was that it more or less works reverse.
It is solvable and I repaired it myself for $ 0,0. The only requirement is that you are a bit handy. You need to open the box and find yourself a way to the volume control (and you know where this sits of course) because this is the one that needs to be repaired. This is 35 screws away from you in total but this sounds a lot worse than it is !
It is indeed the volume control that needs to be repaired. In an analog amplifier this component would contain a resistor (potentiometer) but hey this is a digital volume control and looks from the outside the same but isn't at all. You need to take this volume control with 5 contacts of its print with a soldering iron. Open this potentiometer lookalike and clean it with some absorbing paper. The issue is that there is a kind of oil/grease from the shaft (which is there in order to turn smoothly) which has leaked into the area of the contacts in the middle. Just clean it and turn 50 times with it in order to spread the remaining oil/grease if there would be any. Close it again, solder it onto its print and switch on the unit... you will see that it is repaired... not for 1% or 10% but for the full 100%.