Question about Black & Decker CBG100 Electric Blades Grinder

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Coffee Grinder CBG100 Black & Decker

Grinder does not run after running more than 30 seconds.It's dead.Is there any fuse that I need to change inside the grinder?Please send reply to www.brittany60156@yahoo.com.ROBERT

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  • skezix1 Oct 26, 2008

    it just quit so I took it apart looking for a fuse inside. I found a soldered inline thermal looking link that had writing on it (d125 znwj ) and also 128 deg. C so I think when it overheats this burns out. I bypassed that link and it runs fine, but I haven't put a load on it yet so who knows? Need to find another link to solder in.

    A Meyer (ameyer1@verizon.net)

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5 Suggested Answers

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: CBM205S - Black & Decker Coffee Grinder

make sure the top cover is depresed fully. There's a safety switch underneath it.

Posted on Nov 11, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Black and Decker Dual Coffee Maker

it says 4 tablespoons per cup, but I use a heaping coffee scoop.

Posted on Jan 04, 2008

SOURCE: Coffee grinder

Mine had a piece of the top/bean lid broken off and lodged in the groove preventing the lid from going down far enough to release the safety switch which is on the right (as you look at the front) in the bottom of the groove. Note that there is another safety switch in the body of the grinder above where the ground coffee comes out that must be working as well.

MLK

Posted on May 21, 2008

besneatte
  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Black & Decker Coffee Maker DE755B--Thermal Fuse

Hi, the actual part you are talking about is not the heat fuse but the heat relay.

I have the same coffee pot, it 'died' on me and I was able to fix it. I actually had a bad relay AND a bad fuse. Here is what I did to get it working again WITHOUT purchasing any new parts and still keeping things SAFE.

Fist, unplug it! Remove the bottom cover ( you may need a special screwdriver for one of the screws, I had to file a notch in an old flat head ).

Unscrew the nut that connects the element to a bracket and to the plate. Remove the parts and set aside.

First thing you need to check is to see if it one ( or both ) of the actual fuses are burnt out. There is a wire that goes from the relay ( white ceramic cylinder ) to the heating element ( thick aluminum loop ), this wire has an extra sheath on it. Under this sheath there are 2 heat fuses in series. Check these fuses to see if one or both are burnt out. One of mine was. If both of yours are burnt out, you will need to order new ones ( see a post here ), if only one is out, you can do what I did. Using 2 pairs of needle nose pliers, I carefully loosened the crimping on both sides of the burnt out fuse and removed it. Using the same crimping I attached the remaining good fuse to the wire. Make sure you now have continuity from the output of the relay to the element.

The relay is the round ceramic thing with an aluminum "cap". It is attached to the heating element via a small black clip. Put an ohm meeter across this piece, if you have continuity, the contacts are probably welded shut, which is why your fuse blew. If not, the likely cause it, the contacts are burnt. Either way the fix is the same.

At the base of this relay there is a small lip. I used a small file to make this lip thin in one spot, then I carefully peeled it off all the way around. There is a crease right before the lip ( the part of the cap closest to the wires side of the relay ) and the lip peeled away nicely along this crease without damaging the cap itself. You can now remove the cap part and see the relay workings underneath. Be very careful when you remove the cap. Under the cap is a black piece of some kind of rubber with a tiny white piece of plastic in the middle. Don't lose these.

Now using an old toothbrush and some acetone clean the relay contacts and carefully free them if they are welded shut. Now use a small piece of fine sandpaper to clean up both of the contacts. Check the unit with a ohm meter, and if you have continuity, this part is done.

Now that you have peeled the lip off the relay, the pressure of the clip is required to hold it together. Carefully reassemble the relay ( don't forget the little white piece ) and while holding it together, against the spot on the element you removed it from, slide the clip on and back into place. Using the ohm meter again, check that every thing is connected as it should. With the switch on ( you DID unplug it, RIGHT? ) you should have continuity all the way from the plug to the heating element. If all is well put it back together and make some coffee.

I had some extra thermal grease laying around, so I cleaned of the old stuff and put some new on before reassembling ( where the element contacts the burner plate ). This probably not necessary, but not a bad idea either.

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: replacement carafe for Black & Decker ODC325N Spacemaker 12-Cup

You can have mine for the cost of shipping

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

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make sure the top cover is depresed fully. There's a safety switch underneath it.

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