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Can i put a new voice coil in the woofer of my JBL 4410?

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It is possible to recone this speaker. Get a recone kit from JBL. It takes a little practice, but reconing can be done. I have done hundreds over the years. Make sure that you get the kit from JBL. If you feel that you don't want to take a chance on this there are reconing shops around the country.

Dan

Posted on Sep 06, 2008

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I have AIWA NSX-RV85. The sub-woofer surround tore leaving just the cone. When I play, The woofer just makes a rattling sound coming out of vibrating cone.Any advise on how to fix my speakers.Thanks


Refit the rubber, you can find itbon eBay, its called reconing actually in this case the cone is the inlybpart wich you dont want to replace... The rattling is beingproducer due to the fact the rubber normally holds the cone ibto positionering over the coils. This rattling is not good can defect your cone. So dont play it roll you got a new rubber fitted!

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I need to wire 3 woofers but 2 are dual voice coil and one is single voice coil


sure, if you wish to wire them all together, wire the first dual voice coil subs first voice coil negative to 2nd voice coil positive, second voice coil negative to single voice coil sub positive, and single voice coil negative to 2nd dual voice coil subs 1st voice coil positve (again with the second dual voice coil sub, run the first voice coil negative to the 2nd voice coil positve) your speaker leads will be attatched to first dual voice coils 1st voice coil positive, and 2nd dual voice coils 2nd voice coil negative)

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REPAIR CONE TEAR IN 18"


If the tear is large, or the speaker cone is brittle because of age, you might be best off having the speaker completely reconed. There are companies that offer the service, or you can buy replacement cones and do it yourself.

For small tears (an inch or so long), you can glue a patch in place. I have used a piece of a paper coffee filter as a patch, and plain white Elmer's glue slightly thinned with water. Put the patch over the tear and use a small brush to spread a thin layer of glue over it. Give it a day to thoroughly dry and you should be set.

I have found this repair to be more effective on smaller speakers than on large woofers, though. The woofer cones are more mechanically active. But I patched a couple of 15-inch cones that had been punctured for a friend, and they are still playing after a year. So it can't hurt to try.

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The connection on the receiver would be the sub woofer out. Not a sub woofer out LFE, a sub woofer out with speaker wire connection. From there you plug it in to the top section of the available terminals on the sub you are referring to (speaker level input). One in positive and the other in negative matching what you did on the receiver with correct ends. The speaker connections underneath the top connections is for additional speakers like surrounds to be able to be connected directly to the sub woofer speaker level out for sound. This of course would be for an older receiver connection. I do not think it is possible to convert this connection to an LFE and have it work properly. If the receiver does not have sub woofer speaker connection and only a RCA out then you can try to connect both rear speaker connections from the receiver to the speaker level inputs on the sub and then connect your rear speakers to the speaker level output on the sub to power them. This is an active sub woofer but for some reason they made it connect as if it was passive. I am not sure if this sub is designed for really low frequencies required for movie or if it is better for music.

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If the model ??? JBL sub is self-powered like most just run an RCA cable from Sub Woofer Audio Out to it and select YES for Subwoofer in the setup menu.

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This typically means that your voice-coil is fried (shorted) and the driver needs to be replace. I'm too lazy to read the terms of use so I don't know if I'm allowed to recommend a source. If you choose to replace the driver yourself it is a simple task. After disconnecting the AC power just remove the screws holding the driver in the enclosure and disconnect the two wires. On a high quality unit the wires will be soldered and it is simplest to cut them as close to the driver as possible - this leaves you plenty of wire to work with when connecting the new one.

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