Question about GE JBP68 CleanDesign Electric Kitchen Range
Has anyone any experience with changing the heating element on our flatop stove?
We had the same problem with ours. This is likely caused by one of two things: The element could be bad, or the element controller could be bad. I hope this helps...
1. Get a screwdriver and multimeter.
2. Slide out the stove and unplug it.
3. Open the oven door and look along the front edge up under the cooking deck. You will see several screws. Remove them.
4. Pry up the top cooking deck, the deck is hinged on the back side of the stove.
5. Lift up the front end of deck and get something to prop it up with.
6. The heating elements are are mounted to sheet metal strips, which are attached to the bottom of the cooking deck with screws.
7. Plug the stove back in and set the bad element to high heat.
NOTE: THE EXPOSED WIRING UNDER THE DECK COULD BE ENERGIZED TO 220V, ENOUGH TO KILL IF TOUCHED! USE EXTREME CAUTION. NO CHILDREN, PETS OR CURIOUS ONLOOKERS NEED TO BE AROUND WHILE DOING THIS. ALSO, YOU DO NOT NEED TO BE DOING THIS IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
8. Take the multimeter probes and check the voltage going to the element. If the voltage is 220V, then the element is bad. If no voltage or very low voltage, then the controller is bad.
9. Unplug the stove.
10. If the controller is bad, then remove back cover from control panel. Remove controller and replace it.
11. If burner is bad, unplug burner and remove it...you will need to remove sheet metal strip that the burners are mounted on from deck before removing burner from the strip. NOTE: The burners are delicate, be careful.
11.a Mark the metal mounting strip where the burner tabs attach to it with a marker before removing burner because there are several locations on the strip where different burner sizes could be mounted.
12. The replacement burner is expensive. After careful inspection, I found the burner to be bad on ours, and the cause was a broken weld between the burner element foil where it is tack welded to the wire tab at the side of the burner. Looking at the quality of the welds, I would not be surprised if this is a common problem. One could take a piece of steel, say a paper clip or similar, and use a pair of needle nose pliers and fashion a small clip using the needle nose pliers to compress the break in the element foil back together. Otherwise, replace the element. I opted to repair the element and save the money.
13. Reinstall the element and plug the element in. Note, the element can be installed in several locations on the sheet metal mounting strip. Make sure to install back in the original locations that you marked with a marker. Carefully reinstall the mounting strip to the deck. Screw deck back down.
14. Plug stove back in.
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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You don't have to look for a certain resistence on the element, just continuity. If you have a digital meter it should beep when you check across the terminals. You can check for voltage also, 240 volts constant, it doesn't change with temp.
You can turn power off to stove, remove element, turn power back on, and do these checks, but it is safer to pull the stove out, remove the back and check from there. There will be 120v at element even when it is off unless control has double line relay, don't take the chance.
Let me know what you find.
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