Question about GE JBP68 CleanDesign Electric Kitchen Range

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Burner on GE flatop not working

Has anyone any experience with changing the heating element on our flatop stove?

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  • Aland Coons
    Aland Coons May 11, 2010

    I have a JBP68 model with a failed oven (probably computer). Would you like to buy the cook top for parts? It's never had a problem and still works even though the oven is faulty.

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We had the same problem with ours. This is likely caused by one of two things: The element could be bad, or the element controller could be bad. I hope this helps...

1. Get a screwdriver and multimeter.

2. Slide out the stove and unplug it.

3. Open the oven door and look along the front edge up under the cooking deck. You will see several screws. Remove them.

4. Pry up the top cooking deck, the deck is hinged on the back side of the stove.

5. Lift up the front end of deck and get something to prop it up with.

6. The heating elements are are mounted to sheet metal strips, which are attached to the bottom of the cooking deck with screws.

7. Plug the stove back in and set the bad element to high heat.
NOTE: THE EXPOSED WIRING UNDER THE DECK COULD BE ENERGIZED TO 220V, ENOUGH TO KILL IF TOUCHED! USE EXTREME CAUTION. NO CHILDREN, PETS OR CURIOUS ONLOOKERS NEED TO BE AROUND WHILE DOING THIS. ALSO, YOU DO NOT NEED TO BE DOING THIS IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

8. Take the multimeter probes and check the voltage going to the element. If the voltage is 220V, then the element is bad. If no voltage or very low voltage, then the controller is bad.

9. Unplug the stove.

10. If the controller is bad, then remove back cover from control panel. Remove controller and replace it.

11. If burner is bad, unplug burner and remove it...you will need to remove sheet metal strip that the burners are mounted on from deck before removing burner from the strip. NOTE: The burners are delicate, be careful.

11.a Mark the metal mounting strip where the burner tabs attach to it with a marker before removing burner because there are several locations on the strip where different burner sizes could be mounted.

12. The replacement burner is expensive. After careful inspection, I found the burner to be bad on ours, and the cause was a broken weld between the burner element foil where it is tack welded to the wire tab at the side of the burner. Looking at the quality of the welds, I would not be surprised if this is a common problem. One could take a piece of steel, say a paper clip or similar, and use a pair of needle nose pliers and fashion a small clip using the needle nose pliers to compress the break in the element foil back together. Otherwise, replace the element. I opted to repair the element and save the money.

13. Reinstall the element and plug the element in. Note, the element can be installed in several locations on the sheet metal mounting strip. Make sure to install back in the original locations that you marked with a marker. Carefully reinstall the mounting strip to the deck. Screw deck back down.

14. Plug stove back in.

15. Cook

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

  • mitch Apr 25, 2010

    One more thing about the instructions above...it should be obvious, but make sure when you prop up your cooking deck in step 5 above, that your prop does not touch any wiring and is not flimsy.

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1. Get a screwdriver and multimeter.

2. Slide out the stove and unplug it.

3. Open the oven door and look along the front edge up under the cooking deck. You will see several screws. Remove them.

4. Pry up the top cooking deck, the deck is hinged on the back side of the stove.

5. Lift up the front end of deck and get something to prop it up with.

6. The heating elements are are mounted to sheet metal strips, which are attached to the bottom of the cooking deck with screws.

7. Plug the stove back in and set the bad element to high heat.
NOTE: THE EXPOSED WIRING UNDER THE DECK COULD BE ENERGIZED TO 220V, ENOUGH TO KILL IF TOUCHED! USE EXTREME CAUTION. NO CHILDREN, PETS OR CURIOUS ONLOOKERS NEED TO BE AROUND WHILE DOING THIS. ALSO, YOU DO NOT NEED TO BE DOING THIS IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

8. Take the multimeter probes and check the voltage going to the element. If the voltage is 220V, then the element is bad. If no voltage or very low voltage, then the controller is bad.

9. Unplug the stove.

10. If the controller is bad, then remove back cover from control panel. Remove controller and replace it.

11. If burner is bad, unplug burner and remove it...you will need to remove sheet metal strip that the burners are mounted on from deck before removing burner from the strip. NOTE: The burners are delicate, be careful.

11.a Mark the metal mounting strip where the burner tabs attach to it with a marker before removing burner because there are several locations on the strip where different burner sizes could be mounted.

12. The replacement burner is expensive. After careful inspection, I found the burner to be bad on ours, and the cause was a broken weld between the burner element foil where it is tack welded to the wire tab at the side of the burner. Looking at the quality of the welds, I would not be surprised if this is a common problem. One could take a piece of steel, say a paper clip or similar, and use a pair of needle nose pliers and fashion a small clip using the needle nose pliers to compress the break in the element foil back together. Otherwise, replace the element. I opted to repair the element and save the money.

13. Reinstall the element and plug the element in. Note, the element can be installed in several locations on the sheet metal mounting strip. Make sure to install back in the original locations that you marked with a marker. Carefully reinstall the mounting strip to the deck. Screw deck back down.

14. Plug stove back in.

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