Question about U-Line 75BWC

2 Answers

Thermostat thanks for the quick response. how do I easily get to the wires?

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  • jdodaro Sep 22, 2008

    I had someone out today and they did diagnose it as a thermostat. Said they need to now send me a quote for parts and labor to fix. What should I be expecting in the way of parts cost and labor? He made it sound like it was a very complicated thing to fix (i.e. needs to take the whole thing apart). Is this the case?

  • jdodaro Sep 24, 2008

    Thanks. How much time do you think it takes to fix (assuming they charge me by the hour). The guy on the phone made it sound very involved - i.e. need to take the whole thing apart because its a sealed system.

  • jdodaro Sep 24, 2008

    Thanks. It's an 8 yr old U-Line 75BWC refrigerator. Not sure if that is a standard stat or not.

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2 Answers

If a standard stat, would take me about 40 mins to do including testing. normally an easy job

Posted on Sep 24, 2008

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Stat is immediately behind the temp setting knob and inside a housing. prize off the knob and the housing is normally held by a couple of screws. take the housing off and stat will be in view

Posted on Sep 06, 2008

  • douglas smith Sep 24, 2008

    i'm in UK not US so can't give you any guidance on cost. in UK part cost would be about £17 and labour about £40 tho stat costs do vary a lot

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1 Answer

Freezer switches on and off stays on a week then turns off take food out and two days later it turn on again


Without a model number this is a generic response. One of 2 things is happening... the freezer is running until it reaches the cycle / cold temp shut off or it runs until it reaches the defrost cycle and the deffrost sensor / thermostat is taking a very long time to reach 60 deg F. This can be caused by a bad defrost heating element. or ...; This can also be caused by a defrost control problem.

Regardless to get parts, wiring diagrams or to call a repair service you need a complete model number as do we here at FixYa for a response that is applicable to the askers unit.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

May 30, 2011 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Not cooling


If your freezer is not cooling, i will suggest you check the defrost thermostat. To test the defrost thermostat, please follow the steps below:
  1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
  2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
  3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
  5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.
To replace the defrost thermostat, please follow the steps below:
  1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
  2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
  3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
  5. To install your new defrost thermostat, reverse the removal process. Reconnect the wires, replace the panel, and restore power to your refrigerator. For those models where the defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator coil, make sure you install the new thermostat in the same location and position of the old one.

Hope this information helped. Thank you for using fixya

Jan 16, 2011 | Thetford Norcold RV Cooler/Freezer

1 Answer

I've checked door seal for leaks, etc; made sure vents in freezer section aren't blocked. Freezer section still gets ice stalactites very quickly. Its possible the defrost cycle isn't working. How do I...


You can clear the drain tube by gently reaming with a wire hanger.
Blockage won't cause it to freeze up so quickly though. Check the thermostat setting? Otherwise it is very likely that the thermostat is not deactivating when it should. This would require replacement of the thermostat.

Sep 06, 2010 | Maytag Refrigerators

2 Answers

Fridge runs intermittently


you have a defrost timer or defrost element that went bad, only a service tech can tell which one, because they both have to be checked & they are checked differently

Aug 01, 2010 | Maytag MTB2156GES Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Freezer frozen--fridge not cold


The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

Sep 20, 2009 | Kenmore 57029 Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

Frigidaire freezer cold, refrig in 50's.


Because the model FRT21P5A has a manual adjusting vent I believe your problem is either the defrost heater and defrost thermostat and or the cold control (thermostst) is not working correctly. When temperatures rise in the refrigerator side first that is a sign that the air flow from the freezer is restricted. You will need to unplug the refrigerator and remove the rear panel in back of freezer to confirm. If Iced over use a hair dryer to defrost and disconnect one wire on the defrost heater. Check the defrost heater with an ohm meter. You should get a reading. If defective and no reading you need to replace the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. Let me know what you find, Thanks Sea Breeze

Jul 19, 2009 | Frigidaire FRT21P5A Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Need to relace thermostat on kitchen aid wine cooler kuws246ebl2


Hi, The silver thing is not a wire. It is the sensor tube for the thermostat. The new thermostat will come with the sensor. Be sure and notice how and where the sensor goes in the wall. I hope this helps

Vic

May 20, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

A part fell out of the ice maker - makes 'soft' ice???


It goes on the bottom of the ice tray and snaps in that is the sencor that tells when the ice is frozen

Mar 28, 2009 | Samsung RF265AA Bottom Freezer French Door...

1 Answer

GE refrigerator not defrosting


To force this unit into a defrost mode, unplug the fridge and remove the cover from the main control broad and remove the main wire harness. (Three wires, Black, Blue and Brown I believe) Next take a a small 3in wire and bend it into a U shape to make a jumper.
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Insert the jumper into the main wire harness to jump the to outer wires together. (Black to Brown) It should be pretty easy to slip it in through the back with the rest of the wires. (Don't worry this test will not cause any harm to your fridge)
Now reapply the power to the fridge and check the defrost heater. As long as the defrost thermostat is below 15 degrees then the heater should start working. If the heater doesn't work then there is a problem with either the defrost thermostat or the heater. GE uses a glass tube heater with a coiled wire inside. This wire has a habit of breaking after a few years.

As far as the thermistors go, all the do is tell the board to cool. They can make the unit cool all the time but the board should still defrost the evaporator every 6-36 hours. If the unit starts defrosting then you have a bad board.

Hope this helps and let me know if you need any clarification. Good Luck!

Nov 03, 2008 | Refrigerators

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