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I think you've gotton your moneys worth with ten trouble free years. The power cords safety device is a bit more sensitive to a high resistive short to ground than your breaker is. I would suggest that there is exactly that: a high resistive short to ground within the cabinet of the PTAC. It has been years since I have been on a PTAC call and am unable to suggest specifics. But if you are competent and capable of using a DVOM, open up the unit and begin a systematic approach of determining the problem.
The FIRST thing I'd do is check the motor and the compressor with a digital megohmeter. Sometimes their problem will only show up with this sensitive device.
If it were me I would use an amp meter and take an amp reading of the compressor when it is fully loaded. then I would refer to my name plat. which should be located on unit or if you can read label on compressor that is even better. FLA is fully loaded amps. RLA is running load amps, and LRA is locked rotor amps. if your amp readings is close to LRA or higher than FLA then I would recommend changing your compressor, The last thing you want is a compressor burn out.
I would say it sounds like the compressor shorted or one of the three wires is/are grounding out. This should trip the breaker not melt/burn it. The other option is that the condenser fan is not coming on thus causing the compressor to overload and toasting the breaker. I am assuming that you have a 30/40 amp breaker. Once you install a new breaker the turn the unit on and see if the outside fan is working and is the compressor is running. Hope this helps tim
regarding on switch mode theres a common line between heating and cooling although fan is always connect on them.,also with the thermostat,the sequence on this when you switch to cooling and your connection is on heater,the contactor will shift to compressor source,so if there is no cooling, the contactor supplying the compressor is not functioning when you switch on cool mode.try to tighten screw on compressor relay maybe only loose.on control panel,or check continuity of compressor if the compressor still good,check also the freon charge using clamp ammeter,this should be done by ac technician.have a nice day
rate me up,thank's
Full service both coils first ,add your filter, then add a line temperature probe in the supply air flow or on the line going to the compressor add freon till you get the lowest temperature nad then it will start to climb, you've had the correct charge,!
Every air conditioner has a motor called a compressor. The compressor provides the cooling capacity for the air conditioner. If the compressor or its electrical controls are defective the compressor may try to start, fail, and create an electrical overload. If the unit does create an overload, every compressor circuit is also equipped with an overload safety switch. The safety switch is designed to protect the compressor from burning out. The safety switch will cut the power to the compressor for a certain length of time and then reset itself. When it resets it will allow the electricity to flow to the compressor once again. If the compressor then starts, the unit should function normally. If the compressor doesn't start when the overload resets, the overload will again cut the electricity to the compressor. This cycle will continue indefinitely. (Always allow three to five minutes before restarting the compressor.) If this situation is occurring, unplug the air conditioner and get help from a qualified repair technician. This problem is often fatal to the air conditioner because the cost of repair often exceeds the price of a new air conditioner.