Question about Zenith B32A34Z 32" TV

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Power on off switch not working

I just replaced the main module on my set, and now as soon as I plug it in, it comes on I cannot crontrol the system from the power on switch, every other option seems to work. I can control the sound up and down, I can change channels, this is from remote or from front key pad. any suggestions as to what would cause this? thanks in advance Ron

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Do not operate the set anymore, before taking the following steps, or damage to the HOT, electrolytics or zener diodes may occur. - see if there are 2 small electrolytic capacitors in the primary part of the power supply, could be C909, C910, C911 or something. The values are usually 47u 25V and 10u 50V. Especially the 47u which is in the base drive of the switching transistor causes over-voltage conditions. They both should be replaced. - there should be a 2SC2335, BUV46, BUT56 or BUT11A in the +105V line on the secundary side of the power supply. This is probably shorted thus causing no power-off. Replace it along with the transistor driving it (2SA1013 probably). If the above does not apply to your TV, you're on your own for now, and you may actually be having a microcontroller faillure...

Posted on Oct 06, 2005


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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The damage from a lightning strike tends to be random. Sometimes it's minor, and only a few parts are affected. Other times, many parts are ruined, or destined to fail soon as a result of the current surge.

If the strike came over the power line, the input surge protectors in the power supply should be replaced, even if they look good. It would be prudent to replace the entire power supply. If you had the set plugged into an external surge protector, that should have taken most of the hit and should also be replaced. (Some surge protector manufacturers will pay up to a certain amount for repair or replacement of equipment plugged into their products if it is damaged by lightning.)

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test this steps and fix it. God bless you
Power Supply

The main power supply is the first thing to check. Also remove the toe kick and the cover on the power box and check the connections. Also check 120 volts at the power box.

Hi - Limit Fuse

This will fail if your dishwasher overheats and occassionally with power surges. This is easy to check, inexpensive and a quick fix. Just check the terminals for continuity ( remember always remove one wire) if you have none replace the hi limit fuse.

Door Switch

This is the second place to look. Again an inexpensive easy fix. The following video will walk you thru checking the door switch The power comes into the main power box and usually runs to the door switch next before entering the main control module.

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The main control module or mechanical timer controls all the functions of the dishwasher. To check this you will need to find the 2 leads that supply the power to the control. They will be marked on the wiring diagram. They usually come from the hi - limit fuse or the door switch. When the door is latched you should have 120 volts entering the main control. If you do not the problem is not the control. If you do have power entering the control but none of the functions work properly or it does not respond at all you will need to replace the control module, this is easy to replace but not very inexpensive to purchase. Consider the age and overall condition when purchasing this part.


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To figure out what's causing your problem, start by inspecting the main fuse for the headlight circuit. See your Owners Manual for the location of this fuse. It is often located in the power center in the engine compartment, but may also be in the fuse panel under the dash.
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