TV will go off and on at different times (sound is OK). Switching on and off has no affect.
Tried to put a fan to cool the board, seem to help for a while but it was apparently was not affecting it like I thought. Pulled board out but saw no heat build up.
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Re: CRT goes black
Randomly spraying Freeze Spray inside the set usually will not help you fix your set. You need to have a little more organized and scientific troubleshooting routine. Get out your DMM and measure the voltages in the power supply. When the screen goes black, is there still regulated B+ going to the circuitry? Do you still have HV? Is the filament of the CRT lit?
Does the set still have a raster (you may have temporarily increase the screen setting to see it)? Do you measure any of the flyback derived B+ voltages that go to the video processing, tuner, Vertical Deflection, and other circuitry?
Be very careful when poking around inside the elevision........there are dangerous and lethal shock hazards inside.........even when the set is unplugged!
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Check its solder terminal at the CRT board [Filament voltage]. It sounds like the filament do not glow after some time due to a loose contact at the CRT base connector sockets. Check it. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ If this does not help, check the ABL circuit for any open resistor.
U have tools like a soldering iron,a roll solders,also can u do basic soldering?Yes.This tv have cold solders joints in the(CRT-Tv tube) video board connections pins socket that connected to the(CRT-Tv tube).The tv loud buzzing sound is comming from the FBT-the flyback transformer,that is a big black block of plastic with a red wire with a cap that hook to the(CRT-Tv tube).Resolders both the FBT and the video board CRT socket holes connections.Will solved these 2 problems.
found the problem i turnt the tv on and once the fault appeard i used a freezer spray on the chips it turnt out to be the main chip . i then put some heat sink paste on it and took a hink sink and fan off a comp graphics card and fixed that to it to help keep it cool but going to get a new board as i know this was only a temp fix ( new board £59.00 )
I had a similar problem. Mine had something to do with the fan not coming on to cool off the ?bulb or board or whatever. I put a small fan behind the tv which worked for the short time. After researching, I decided it was the door that goes to the lamp that somehow had miraculously moved by itself to where it didnt seat properly. You can't tell by looking at it on the outside, but when you open the door, there is a little tiny arm on the left that has to be in a perfect alignment. Otherwise the TV thinks the door is open and the fan won't come on, and it shuts itself off so it doesn't overheat. Stupid TV-ha Anyway, that fixed it. Good luck!
Astar 30" LTV 3001 ....These TV's have a cooling problem that causes premature electrolytic capacitor failure. De-solder and Test all the 2200uF-25v, 3300uF-35v and 1000uF-10v caps in the power supply (center board, back of TV). Use a good LCR meter that will read 3300uF or better, Replace all bad caps with 105c rated caps. If you don't have an LCR meter, replace all the mentioned caps on the PS. If fuse on board is blown, also replace the F9222L regulator IC chip. Mounting a small cooling fan on rear of TV over the PS will help keep your new caps from failing again. This requires holes in the stand bracket and the rear of the TV, power can be supplied from a 14V source near the bottom of the PS board.
1 it might be due to spraker wire loose or its connector loose.
2 loose contact in sound section.
3 some cap faulty.
4 sound ic might be grtting more supply so ic is getting over heated.
5 sound ic might be defective.