Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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Kenmore top loader Model 110.20712990


Appreciate you putting this information here for us. On our Kenmore that is about 6 years old we are getting the clicking / grinding sound as the washer is agitating. An additional problem is during spin cycle with heavy loads we need to give the tub a nudge to get started. Does this sound like the coupler you have referenced here? If so, would you be so kind as to forward me the repair procedure to

Thanks in advance,

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  • dablues Jan 07, 2009

    I had the same problem and have now replaced my second motor coupling.It's really an easy job for most folks.My problem with my latest replacement was the gear case is also going to need replaced.Part of putting coupler on if your not careful is breaking that seal around the shaft of the gearbox(who knew it could hold that much oil) anyway have the old one out and waiting for the part to come in to my local appliance repair shop(one day,gave me a discount probably cause he felt sorry for me) price I believe he quoted was around 150. plus tax. My question is do you have a linc showing this repair,I may have confused the order in which I was removing the portion of the clutch that attaches to the shaft of the gearbox.Hard to make out on my schematic.
    You guys are great,and in these tight financial times this advice that you provide is priceless!!!!



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It could be the coupler, but I doubt it. More commonly, this is the symptom of a gearcase (transmission) going bad. Couplers typically just snap off or the center hole rounds out causing it to slip. The result: the washer will fill and drain, but will not agitate or spin. The telltale sign of a bad gearcase is the grinding noise you mentioned and the requirement for you to assist the spin under a load. In addition, if you inspect under the washer, sometimes the gearcase will begin to leak a honey colored oil. You may find droplets under the washer, and in extreme cases, you may find spray patterns along the interior cabinet walls.

Now before the sense of panic sets in, replacing a gearcase on this model washer is not that difficult and it can be accomplished by the average do-it-yourselfer with some guidance. I have a link that explains step-by-step how to replace one:

Read through the link thoroughly and see if this is job that sounds like you wish to attempt on your own. No special tools are required. A screwdriver set and socket set is all you should need.

A replacement gearcase can be found at Just type in your model number and locate item number 9 under the "Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump" heading. The part number is 3360629. If you are going to replace the gearcase, it is also recommended that you replace the motor coupling as well. The coupling is listed under the same heading as item number 13 (part number 285753A). You can also check out to see if they carry the parts any cheaper. Use the part numbers provided. I will post the link that explains how to replace the coupling as well:

Many of the steps are a repeat, but I try to be thorough. Some of the original motor couplings that came from the manufacturer would not last long under constant use, because they were made entirely of plastic. The manufacturer modified this part to include a steel grommet that makes it much more durable. The new part is listed with the part on the website, and included in the link I provided.

NOTE: If you do order a replacement gearcase make sure you follow the instructions on the outside of the box. There should arrows indicating that the gearcase needs to be shiped in the UPRIGHT position. If not, transmission oil will leak.

I hope you find this information helpful. The staff asks us to refrain from direct contact with the consumer and only allows us to answer questions in this forum. I hope you don't mind. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Posted on Sep 05, 2008


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