Refrig model # ED2FTGXKQ04 replacing original run/start/overload relay with new part #4387535 not sure what wires to what terminals

The original relay switch has 3 terminal contacts on the compressor side. On the wiring side it has 4 contacts... 2 are start capacitor connections and two at the bottom of the relay are the A/C 110-125 volt line in connections. The replacement part you bought is a genericreplacement for the ref. The correct substitute part is W10189190 . The two wires for the original relay in the top horizonal position evenly spaced apart... ignore the 2 wires. They are wires to the old start capacitor mounted somewhere near the compressor. The other two wires are important to configure them properly. One may be blue and the other red. Here is a cheap way to know which is the right configuration... Use a volt ohmmeter and check the continuity from the refrigerator ground terminal on the A/C line cord or chassis to both A/C line in wire connections to the relay. If the ohms are zero or very near to zero then that is the ground/ aka neutral wire. The neutral wire connects to the bi-metal overload protector built into the relay. That is the bottom center connection terminal on the compressor. The other A/C line in wire is the hot wire and it connects to the Start/ Run connection on the new relay. http://www.appliancezone.com/ShowProduct.aspx?ID=28271
OR
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Kenmore-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/10097202/0046/596/Model-59658642890/0582/0165000?keySuffixId=&pathTaken=partSearch&pathRender=modelComponent&documentCompId=P8090243&diagramPageId=00010&productTypeId=&searchModelNumber=59658642890&subCompDesc=Machine%20compartment/muffler&brandDesc=KENMORE&modelDesc=SIDE-BY-SIDE%20REFRIGERATOR&blt=11&shdMod=59658642890&keyId=251

The two pieces are Relay and Overload.

If you are using a supco relay/overload combination that has three wires with terminals and two wires with stripped ends the wiring is as such.

Red-Run Terminal, White-Start Terminal, Black-Common Terminal (Overload was wired to this)

Stripped wires are connected to line cord along with condenser fan wires.

IT'S MOST LIKELY THE START RELAY/OVERLOAD PROTECTOR ON THE SIDE OF THE COMPRESSOR. UNPLUG UNIT AND PULL START RELAY OFF AND SHAKE. IF SOUNDS LIKE IT'S FULL OF GRAVEL IT'S BAD, OR GET VOLT /OHM METER AND CHECK CONTINUITY BETWEEN THE START AND RUN TERMINALS ON BACK SIDE OF RELAY, WHILE YOUR THERE CHECK CONTINUITY BETWEEN THE BACK SIDE OF OVERLOAD AND WHERE L1 WIRE COMES IN FROM THE HARNESS. IF ALL THAT CHECKS OUT THE COMPRESSOR MIGHT BE BAD OR DRAWING TOO MUCH CURRNET FOR THE FACTORY START DEVICE. YOU DIDN'T NOTE A SERIAL #, SOME OF THOSE MODELS WERE UNDER RECALL FOR THE RELAY/OVERLOAD PROBLEM.

Power off i.e unplugged
Open the back
Remove retaining clip on wiring side of compressor plastic cover.
NOTE wiring connections to terminals on the OLD relay. 1, 2 4 4 ect... make a simple wite color to terminal number sketch.
PULL off PTC relay WITH terminals by pulling HORIZONTALLY (Usually to the left / 9 O'clock position)
NOTE the thermal overload comes off WITH the PTC relay.
Remove wire from Thermal overload terminal and transfer the thermal overload to the new PTC relay.
Slide NEW PTC relay onto compressor terminals
Transfer remaining wires from OLD PTC to the correct terminal on the new PTC relay.

TEST compressor start before installing cover... PLUG in unit

After the test unplug the unit... reinstall the plastic cover and wire clip.

Reinstall back panel

Return unit to service.

Thanks for choosing FixYa

Kelly



NOTE the thermal overload will s akl

The way I check compressor problems is : If it kicks off on the overload , remove the overload / relay . Check all 3 terminals with the meter set on beep . Also , check each terminal to any part of the copper compressor lines . A beep there would indicate a shorted compressor . I would then replace the overload / relay ( wiring correctly with the capacitor ) and connect an amp meter to the overload wire . Plug in the refrig and check the compressor run amps . New compressors usually run 0.7 amps . If the compressor runs anywhere above 2.5 amps , then a lot of wear is on it and not much longer life . I never use a 3 in 1 due to these are only a partial fix and will not last long . Actually , If a refrig comes into the shop , these are jerked off the compressor and thrown away . I consider 3 in 1 absolute junk and frown on any technician using them . Refrigerators come to our shop ( we pick up from lowes , home depot trade ins ) and I've thrown many away , which also means they cannot be permanently used .

It sounds like the overload / relay , which is plugged onto the side of the compressor , with 2 or 3 wires going to it , has burnt . This kit , is easily replaceable , by pulling the refrig out , and removing the bottom panel . If the compressor , is not running , this is the problem . Also , make sure the coils , in the front bottom of the refrig , are clean of dust , lint pet hair , etc , as this can cause the overload / relay to burn out . Take your model number with you , so you get the correct kit .

Probably the start relay or a bad overload (check overload continuity with a volt/ohm meter) Maybe a broken or burnt off wire inside the compressor terminal cover. Possible, but unlikely compressor locked up. Unplug it before getting into the terminal cover.

Yes replace the start relay and overload. Part number 4387835 or 4387535 or 8201799. If that doesnt help it then you need a need compressor. Most of those factory relays have a capacitor on them. You need to pay attention to how they are wired up.

i lost track of the way the wires go on starter relay. can someone please let me know or send diagram, for the 3 wires. Any help would be appreciated.

The line voltage goes to the overload and the neutral(and capacitor lines if it has one) goes to the relay.