Distributor leaking oil

sounds like a coil issue

Its either the valve cover gasket or the o ring that seals the distributor.
It could be coming from either, so look for oil on the valve cover above
the distributor. If you see oil there its the valve cover.
If you dont see oil coming from the valve cover above the distributor, then look or touch
the bottom of the distributor and if there is oil there then the distributor oring is
whats leaking.

If the anti freeze level is fine and there is no apparent leaks of any kind there is a good chance that your thermostat is stuck shut and needs to be replaced. The good news for you is that is a fairly cheap and fast fix. I hope this helps you out, and good luck.

1. Most likely.
2. Unbolt 9/10/11mm.

Easy:
1. Check spark plugs
2. Check HT leads
3. Check distributor cap
4. Check rotor arm (in distributor)
5. Check coolant for traces of oil and check oil for sludgy emulsion. Either of these two could indicate a blown head gasket.

Harder:
1. Compression test on all cylinders. This should show if any cylinder has a lack of compression. Lack of compression could be caused by a) damaged valves, b) damaged piston rings. The leak down test will show you which it is.

Even harder
1. Leak down test on all cylinders. If there is air being blown back throught the dipstick tube it is likely that the piston rings are at fault. If air comes back through the throttle body, it may be the inlet valves. If air comes back through the exhaust the the exhaust valves are the likely cause.

In any case it is recommended to fix the problem asap to prevent damage to the engine.

If you check the "Easiest" items (above) and found nothing, I would recommend being towed to a dealer / workshop. If you can't get a tow and the dealer / workshop is less than 20 miles away you could still drive there but with the injector for cyl 3 disconnected. Be aware that in doing so you a likely to stall the engine (especially with automatic trans) and when that happens the power steering and the servo assist for the brakes don't work thus making driving dangerous.

I hope it is something simple, mine wasn't.

Depending on how long it had been since servicing all of the old fluid might have been what was sealing it up and th neww fluid might be too clean to operate without some major work .

Volvo 240/740/760/780/940/960 1990-1998
FIRING ORDERS

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
To avoid confusion, remove and tag the spark plug wires one at a time, for replacement.
If a distributor is not keyed for installation with only one orientation, it could have been removed previously and rewired. The resultant wiring would hold the correct firing order, but could change the relative placement of the plug towers in relation to the engine. For this reason, it is imperative that you label all wires before disconnecting any of them. Also, before removal, compare the current wiring with the accompanying illustrations. If the current wiring does not match, make notes in your book to reflect how your engine is wired.


Fig. Fig. 1: 2.3L 4-Cylinder Engines Distributor Rotation: Clockwise


Fig. Fig. 2: 2.8L 6-Cylinder Engine Distributor Rotation: Clockwise


Fig. Fig. 3: 2.9L 6-Cylinder Engines Distributorless Ignition


Fig. Fig. 4: 2.3L and 2.4L 5-Cylinder Engines Distributor Rotation: Counterclockwise

Since it's not clear whether you mean driver side or passenger side, I will address both.

On the driver side, the most common leak is from the distributor. This can be caused by the distributor shaft exterior o-ring, or it can be caused by the distributor shaft interior bearing seal. To determine which it is, remove the distributor. First detach the spark plug wires, then undo the bolt that holds the distributor to the head, then pull the distributor out of the head. You will see the o-ring on the exterior of the distributor shaft. This is a $0.50 part, so just replace it with a new one as long as you have the distributor out. The bearing seal is on the inside of the distributor. To inspect it, undo the three bolts holding the cap to the distributor body. Pop the rotor off the shaft, the unclip the inside plastic cover. If you see any oil inside the distributor or the distributor cap, this means the seal is leaking and must be replaced. You can get a seal and bearing replacement kit from kbox.ca. Or, you can just buy a new distributor. Note: To get the distributor back in place you must align the shaft correctly with the notch in the camshaft. There is a right way and a wrong way. If the shaft seems to be aligned but does not go in, pull it out and rotate it 180 degrees, then put it back in.

The other possibility on the driver side of the engine is the main seal between the engine and transmission. If this is the case, you would have to either drop the transmission or pull the engine to replace it.

What if the oil is leaking on the passenger side? If it's coming from behind the timing belt cover, there is a camshaft seal and a crankshaft seal, both of which can leak oil. To get to them, you will have to remove all accessory belts and the alternator, remove the exterior crankshaft pulley, remove the engine mount (support the engine) and the timing belt covers, remove the timing belt, then the crankshaft pulley and/or camshaft pulley, whichever is necessary to replace the leaking seal(s).

Where else could oil be leaking from? If it's coming out from near the top of the engine, that's the valve cover gasket. Remove the valve cover and replace the gasket. While you're at it, replace the spark plug tube seals.

If it's coming out from near the bottom of the engine, it could be the oil pan gasket. Remove the oil pan and replace the gasket.

One more possibility for oil leakage: The head gasket. But in this case you would have noticed other symptoms besides just an oil leak.

Good luck! Let us know how it turns out.

make sure the battery is ok check spark plugs distributor cap and rotar arm for any wear or damage if it has original plug leads replace them also make sure correct grade of oil in engine also clean throttle body

This part will only be available through a Volvo dealer or maybe used from a junkyard. It is the metal base that bolts to the intake cam and the rotor bolts to it. A Dealer can look it up, there isn't really a name, just describe where it attaches to.