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To check for yourself, get an Ohmmeter and see if the outers of the amplifiers RCAs are connected to the ground or each other. If so then it cannot take speaker signals directly.
I suspect the 'High Level' the manual speaks of are the 4volt auxilliary audio signals that can be found on some newer head units, not speaker signals.
Speaker level signals from a bridge amp CAN be used on grounded RCA inputs if the signal is first passed through a simple decoupler and attenuator.
Diagram to explain....
Placing the speakers next to each other face down, you will notice that the connection points run in sequence +- and +-. Now connect the - (negative) from the one speaker, to the + (positive) of the other speaker. Now connect the open + from the one speaker and the open - from the other speaker to your amp. Your amp should have a bridging indication. On the connection points of the amp, you should see a mark pointing to the first + and the last -. That will be your bridge and thus utilizing the full potential of your amplifier
May be the problem is on the sound you are using is not a 5 channel coded sound or check in the menu´s of the amp if the rear channel´s have sufficient db output, check the connections, check if you amp. is not working only as simple stereo (menus also)
Your subs will share the amp output. And if you are not careful, you'll end up blowing them. The amp puts out 1300 watts RMS at 2ohms, the subs have an RMS power range of from 75-350 watts, and you'll be driving them with 650 watts each. A better power match would be to series the subs to present an 8ohm final load. This will reduce the output power to a level the subs can handle. Or you could buy 2 more 12.1's and connect them series-parallel for a 4ohm load and each sub would still be getting 325 watts RMS, just about the maximum they are rated to handle.
Hope this helps.
Yes if your wires are to small they dont supply enough power to the amp and it will shut down..Also the ground..Check all connections for tightness and that none of the wires are touching or grounding out...Hope this helps you and have a great day
I have an Infinity amp as well, and I was having the same issue for a time. The amp is protecting itself from some sort of overload. It could be the Ohms load on the sub, but I would guess not. Make sure your low pass filter is set to LP and not HP or Flat. Then check the RMS on your subs and match that to the Amp RMS. Once I did all that I found that everything worked fine, for a time. It started doing this again, and I checked the fuse and it was blown badly. It seems that the fuse setup on some of these Infinity amps is not as good as one would hope, because the charge was bridging the gap and frying out my fuses. It was like a spark would jump from one side of the fuse to the other without travelling the fuse itself, and this was causing my protect issues. I pulled the fuse, got a new one of the same rating, but I placed the fuse in with a little piece of rubber in between the 2 contacts, and then connected to the fuse block. I have not had problems since.
The easiest thing to test is to try swapping the connections of the front component speakers at the amp connections. If the problem follows the speakers, the issue is probably with the speakers. I would triple check (again) the speaker wire connections. It's also possible the crossover for the driver side component speakers has an issue (thus why the tweeter worked for a while).
If the problem stays on the drivers side, the issue is probably with that channel on the amp. Triple check the RCA connections for that channel.
It's much easier to test other speakers on an amp channel versus trying to check it with a meter.
If the driver's door is "abused" often, my initial thought is the wiring at the speaker or the wiring in the speaker (to voice coil, within the crossover, etc) is the most likely culprit.