Is there a way to shoot aperture priority (where you select the aperture and the camera selects the shutter speed) on a W1?
Maybe I'm missing something, but I've been through the manual and don't see it and before I give up I thought I would ask. And yes, I do see how in M mode you can select both the aperture and the shutter speed and the EV tells you if you're off. That seems very cumbersome.
Thanks for your help and I hope this isn't a stupid question; but I did a forum search and didn't see anything.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
That depends on the sport, the location, and what you want the pictures to say to the viewer. You won't necessarily shoot a daytime football game outdoors the same way as a basketball game indoors.
In general you're going to want a fast shutter speed to freeze the action. To get the fastest shutter speed possible, use the Aperture Priority mode by turning the mode dial to "A" then select the largest aperture by using cursor-up/down to get the smallest f/number.
Having said that, sometimes you might want a slower shutter speed to convey a sense of motion. Select Shutter Priority by turning the mode dial to "S" and use cursor-up/down to select the desired shutter speed.
The question in the title and the first sentence imply to me that you have confused manual mode and RAW format.
Title: "Why does my brand new Canon 6D freeze when shooting in RAWD freeze when shooting in RAW"
First sentence: "My brand new Canon 6D freezes when I try to shoot in manual."
Manual mode means you are responsible for all of the settings related to exposure (aperture, ISO, and shutterspeed). RAW is a specific file format to save the photo. They are independent of each other.
My guess is that in manual mode you have the shutterspeed set to the maximum of 30 seconds. The camera isn't going to automatically adjust it for you in manual mode. If you're new to DSLRs, start with Ae (Aperture priority) or Tv (Shutter priority). In Ae mode, you control the aperture and the camera will select the shutterspeed. In Tv mode, you select the shutterspeed and the camera selects the aperture for you. Start off with Auto ISO. This will help you learn what combinations of settings work well together.
You have not stated which model camera body you have so I can only give you general Nikon information. There is a range over which the automatic settings will work for each camera. In addition, Nikon bodies have multiple sensitivity ranges. On the D90 for example, go into the "Shooting Menu" and open the "ISO sensitivity settings." You will see "maximum sensitivity" and "minimum shutter speed" menus along with the "ISO sensitivity auto control" options. Turn off the auto control option and manually set the maximum (ISO) sensitivity and minimum shutter speed. Also, the Shooting Menu also has "High ISO NR" settings that can be used to accommodate most lighting situations. You need to look in your camera's manual for all the details. The Nikon website has manuals available for all the Nikon products.
To blur the background, you need a shallow depth of field, which requires a small aperture.
Select Aperture priority by moving the mode select dial to A Press the +/- button, the shutter speed and aperture are displayed press the selector up/down to select the aperture press the +/- button to exit shooting mode
IF the selected aperture is outside the shooting range of the camera, shutter speed will show ---
In Program AE, press the exposure compensation button and then up/down on the 4-way button to change the shutter speed/aperture combination.
In Aperture Priority AE you can control the shutter speed indirectly. Press the exposure compensation button and then up/down on the 4-way button to change the aperture, and the camera will adjust the shutter speed to suit.
In Shutter Priority AE press the exposure compensation button and then up/down on the 4-way button to change the shutter speed. The camera will adjust the aperture to suit.
In Manual press the exposure compensation button and then up/down on the 4-way button to change the shutter speed. You'll have to press left/right on the 4-way button to select the appropriate aperture.
OM-20 was basically a upgraded OM-10 with the manual adapter built in and a number of other refinements.
The viewfinder has LED's to show the shutter speed recommended by the camera's lightmeter for the ISO and aperture selected. It also has an exposure compensation indicator (the +/- symbol) and an indicator for flash ready which doubles up as a post-exposure flash confirmation. There is also the indicator lamp to show manual mode has been selected. OM-10 lacks the manual mode lamp and the +/- indicator.
Like the OM-10, the OM-20 is primarily an aperture priority automatic camera. In this mode you set the ISO film speed, choose which aperture you wish to use (with the ability to use the lens depth of field preview button) and then the camera selects the correct shutter speed. The +/- exposure compensation control allows the user to tell the camera to modify the recommended shutter speed by up to two stops either way.
In manual mode, there is no manual metering. The light meter behaves exactly as it does in aperture priority mode and the viewfinder shows the recommended shutter speed and not the manually selected one. Correct metering is therefore a case of adjusting the aperture first, and then choosing the correct shutter speed indicated in the viewfinder. If the user then decides to select a different shutter speed, then the aperture ring must be adjusted to maintain the correct exposure. For example the aperture is set to f8 and the camera recommends 1/60th of a second. The user decides that a faster shutter speed is required and chooses 1/250th, but the viewfinder remains showing 1/60th. In order to keep the same exposure value the user must open the aperture by two full stops to f4. The camera's light meter will detect the new aperture setting and providing the light on the object is unchanged the viewfinder shutter speed display should now show 1/250th as well to confirm the correct adjustment. Alternatively, the user can choose the shutter speed first by looking at what has been set on the control ring (or by turning the ring to the end of its travel and then counting the clicks from there as all experienced OM users do) and then turning the aperture ring until the shutter speed shown in the viewfinder matches what's been manually set.
It all sounds clumsy and complex but is done far more quickly than I've taken to type this and becomes second nature.
Aperture priority metering is selected on the camera by choosing AUTO on the mode selecter. In this mode the shutter speed ring has no effect and the viewfinder always displays the automatically selected shutter speed.
s I understand it from what I have seen on the Web, the 3000Z can operate in several modes:
1. Fully automatic (camera select both
2. Manual (user sets both aperture and shutter speed).
3. Aperture Priority mode - user sets aperture and camera chooses correct shutter speed to get a good exposure
Apparently there is no Shutter Priority mode (user cannot set only the shutter er speed and allow the camera to set the aperature to get a good exposure). This option is available on the Epson 850Z camera and this seems like a silly ommision to make on a "high-end" camera like the 3000Z.