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One possibility could be that you have a clogged LINT DUCT VENT to the outside.
It sounds like the damp sensor is working fine as when your unit senses no moisture, it shuts off. Soooooo, if the LINT DUCT VENT is partially clogged somewhere between the dryer tub and the outside of the house, then the sensor is sensing too much heat because the air flow is limited terribly somewhere. Take your entire LINT DUCT TUBING and clean it completely. Also, make sure you do not have any loops or droops in the whole ducting route. Make sure the lint duct tubing is not having to blow uphill anywhere in its route to the outside of the house. Dryers can not blow damp lint up hill very well and when folks try to make a dryer do this, the dryer will try, but damp lint will collect in a low spot, or in a hose route that has too many turns in it to the outside. Make the route of the hose LEVEL and even downward if possible. If it is a good idea to vent the hose out the side of the dryer, (to reduce turns, - remember they are death in a dryer) if possilbe. Not all dryers allow this. Look in your users manual for any suggestions.
If you are not venting the moisture from the towels away from the rear of the dryer that could be causing your problem. If the dryer is up against the wall try either moving it away from the wall or hooking a vent hose to the discharge and at least pulling the other end of the host around to the side of the dryer. The dryer pulls air into it self from the rear and bottom of the dryer so it could be pulling the moisture from the towels right back into the dryer making it take longer to dry. Hope that helps
some dryers have a round "knockout" on either side which would allow for different venting options. You also need to check the ducting inside the machine to determine if it can be re routed without causing a sharp bend or kink that would cause over heating and lower efficiency.
the rear of the dryer the back of the belt has to be on the right side
of the idler pulley, then around the motor pulley. If the back of the
belt is against the left side of the pulley looking from the rear the
belt will be too long, not enough tension.
Most dryers have that option but not on the left side. You will need to cut a hole in the left side dryer housing. Then you will need to dis-assemble the back panel of the dryer and disconnect the vent pipe connection inside the dryer. Then run the moisture vent into the dryer housing from the left side opening and connect it to the venting system inside the dryer. You might not be able to put the opening in the same spot as the right side so you should do a visual inspection inside the dryer before making the opening to verify nothing is in the way.
The routing for the belt should be on a diagram somewhere inside the dryer. It sounds like the belt is not properly routed around the idler/tensioner pulley -- this is a very tricky routing -- without a diagram, it's a bunch of trial and error. Can you find the routing diagram?
Go to repairclinic.com. Click on the "Repair Help" heading on the left-hand side of the screen. On the next page is a "Dryer Belt Diagrams" heading on the left hand side. Your dryer belt diagram will be either "H" or "K" listed under the Whirlpool section. Your Kenmore is manufactured by Whirlpool. I hope this helps you. Please post back if you need further assistance.