The rotating arms don't work - Bosch Dishwashers

Confirm that lower washarm is rotating. Initially check by rotating by hand. Second mark arm position turn on unit stop and heck arm position.

Listen very carefully and confirm arm is turning. It is often found debris clogs the lower arm jet preventing the arm from turning.

Also check the water level in washer sump. Low will also keep the arm from rotating.

Hope this helps.

From the wiper motor, the wiper linkage attaches to both wiper arms. If one side is working, then that indicates that your motor is working, and the linkage to at least 1 wiper arm is working.

What's left? The linkage to the other arm, and the connection of the arm to the pivot shaft assembly. Let's find out:

1. Remove the inoperative wiper arm. You will expose the shaft that the wiper arm attaches to. It will have a head on it that looks like a small peanut butter cup, with shallow ridges or splines all the way around it. This can be formed on the end of the shaft, or it can be a separate piece that is removable. If you don't see it, it may have come off with the wiper arm, so look for it to be still embedded in the wiper arm hole. Once you find it, how do those splines look? Are they stripped? If so, they may be rotating within the arm instead of rotating the arm itself.

2. Run the wipers again. Is the shaft rotating? If it is, then the arm and/or splines were the problem, and you need to replace withever component had the stripped splines, whether the arm or that p-nut butter cup splined part. (Or both, if you want to be extra safe and not have to mess with it again for a while.) If you're lucky, it'll be a separate piece that you can replace easily. If not, it'll be formed as part of the wiper linkage, and you'll have to replace the whole linkage. If it's just the arm that's stripped, replace the arm. Easy.

3. If the shaft does NOT rotate with the arm removed, then the linkage is broken, usually at the connection where the wiper shaft connects to the long arm that hooks both wiper shafts together. The bushings are often plastic, and they wear out. If it's plastic, you can get a replacement at the dealer, which will be nice, new plastic to last however long this one did. But if the linkage is metal all the way along, you'll have to do more work than with the easily replaceable plastic connection.

3b. To gain access to the linkage on most vehicles, remove both wiper arms. Next, remove the (usually) black plastic vented piece under & around the wiper shafts. This should allow access to the wiper linkage.

For those who who have neither wiper working and were hoping this would cover it, you're in luck. If neither wiper is working, here's how to test the system:

1. Turn the key to ON.
2. Turn on the wipers.
3. Listen for the sound of the wiper motor. LIsten in the cab, but also in the engine compartment as well. If you hear it but have no wiper movement, your motor is fine and the linkage is the issue.
3b. If you do not hear any motor sounds in the cab or the engine comartment, it's either the motor or the switch (I assume you've checked the fuse already).
4. Check the wiper motor: Does it have a connector for the wires, or just one wire. If it has one wire, remove that wire and check it for voltage with a multi-meter or test-light. If you have a connector, you'll need to know what wire is which. Maybe. Most of the time, the motor is grounded thru the body, so if you remove the bolts and move the motor away from the body, you can check for voltage between the motor and body.
5. If you have no voltage, then it's the switch or wiring, or possibly the resistor, if equipped. If you DO have voltage at the motor, but no motor movement, the motor is bad and must be replaced.

Perhaps the torque arm is not attached to the chainstay. The torque are is a metal bar about 3 inches long X 1/2 inch wide, and the chainstay is the tube of the bike frame that runs from the pedals to the rear wheel hub. There is usually a little metal clip that wraps around the chainstay and is attached to the end of the torque arm with a small bolt.

remove both wiper arms, turn off the ignition. Set one arm on the spindle at the desired postion. Test the sweep of the wiper with the ignition on. Check for looseness of the spindles ( wheel boxes ), refit the second wiper arm in the correct position, checking for looseness , if all seems ok retest with the ignition on.

before anyone replaces the motor, check the the small arms that connect the wipers are well oiled and in full rotation. While your car is off, slowly and with little force push the wiper arms down and watch that the small outer connector arm rotates in a full circle. Have a friend grease(white) or oil with machine oil these connectors. if they move but don't fully rotate, buy and replace those before you do a new wiper motor.

Does the arm rotate if you turn it by hand? If it does. and the top arm rotation is normal, there must be a blockage further back in the piping. Remove the arm, it us usually held in place by a nut or a clip, and check the hole, even try operate it without the arm so see if it will dislodge anything. Also check the inside of the arm again, there may be something there that you did not see earlier.

Check the transfer pipe that takes water to the top arm, it could be cracked, loose, kinked or blocked. Try back pressurising it from the top rotating arm attachment pipe. This will give you an indication where a leak could be or blow out a blockage.

I was looking at GE timers at Home Depot tonight.
Timer ON is correct setting.
Segments up should be lights off.
You lights turn ON with outlet on, so lamp, bulb and electricity are good.

Troubleshoot your timer:
What happens when you manually rotate the dial clockwise?
Do lights turn on and off at scheduled times?
Move override switch both directions and rotate dial manually with switch in each position.
Are the segments pulled all the way up?
If lights do not respond when dial is rotated manually, and segments are all the way up, then timer is broken.
If lights turn on-off with manual rotation, then check if clock motor is rotating dial.
If dial is not rotating, then timer is broken.

The way these timers work is this:
Timer clock with plastic gears rotates dial.
Dial rotates as time passes.
Plastic arm rides along outside edge of segments. See photo below.
When segment is pulled up, plastic arm clicks inward via spring action.
The moving arm opens electrical contacts that turn lights OFF.
If dial is not rotating, or the spring is worn out, or the plastic arm broken off, or the contacts fused together, or override wire is disconnected, then timer is broken.

I test these timers.
4-6% arrive defective, and most last 1 or 2 seasons and then they break.
But they are priced low and easily replaced.


Plastic arm rides along segments


Segments pulled up on GE 15207

The arm usually will stop rotateing because there is a obstuction in the arm itself you will need to remove the arm normally unclips (older machine used to scew off)When you have the arm out check all hole top and bottom and open any that are blocked rinse out arm and replace give it a wash and see if there is any improovement,let me know.
Thanks

Have you checked that the cover for the water inlet at the top where it connects to the spray arm is attached? It could have worked loose. Just re-attach and your spray arm should "miraculously" start rotating again!!