This is a wierd problem and can't track down the cause. I have a set of comps in my front door hooked up to the amp. Have my gain at about 3/4 and my HU volume at 40 out of 63. The system is pumping sounds great all of a sudden poof it gets all muffled and murky and muzzled, I don't know how else to explain it the sound gets lower and gurgled, then out of nowhere it'll come back to normal then back to muffled. I lower the volume a bit switch songs and it'll be ok then put it back up after a bit it'll happen again. I don't think it;s the speakers cause it happens to both sides at the exact same time and comes back at the exact same time.
Could this be a ground problem or a volatge problem at the amp? or some other kind of problem?
Assuming you've already checked all your wiring, it sounds like a problem in the amp circuitry. Would you say it happens when the amp heats up? I'm guessing an input opamp circuit is messing up when the amp gets hot. If you are electronically inclined you could open it up and look for a poor solder joint. Other than that you will likely have to get it professionally serviced.
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I have a similar problem with my 2012 civic, I hooked up my 1800w kenwood mp to my 2 12" w6s and 1 song plays and sounds great, the rest of my songs have no bass from the subs, just the car speakers sound normal so I dont know what the hell thats all about. I thought it was a wiring issue but I can play the one song all day and it sounds perfect so any suggestions? thanks in advance
well first i would change all the mid speakers out to kenwood speakers and not the cheap ones cause the cheap ones are like stock speakers the more higher priced ones like the 80 dollar ones are equal to 300 dollar speakers then you should get a 2 channel or 4 channel MTX amp each speaker can take 150watts. your system would be alot better than stock. if anything look on crutchfield.com that would be the best place if you dont want to go to a car stereo shop in your area. if you plan to keep the deck stock then you need a hi-lo adapter which will hook up to the right or left rear speaker and the remote wire needs to go to the ignition wire behind the deck
Here is the link how the speakers are suppose to be connected.
You notice how they hook it up the left connections are your full range or hi frequency speakers and the switch is on for HPF (High pass Filter meaning only high frequency is being passed thru)
The right connections are connected to subs and the switch is on for LPF (Low pass Filter meaning only low frequency is being passed thru)
If you turn off these switches to off the its FULL RANGE all frequencies will pass thru.
The single output of the radio is probably for a subwoofer output but since your using the amp to power speakers too Its useless because your sending only low frequencies to the amp which will make any speakers connected to the amp sound horrible due too all the highs and mids will be filtered out.
STEP 1. 2 4ohm speakers depending where you put them Front or back. Hook these speakers up to the Radio's speaker wires coming out of the radio harness. You can also call them Hi level output wires FR & FL wires if positioning them in the Front. Hook them to the RL or RR if positioning them in the Back. What ever wires you dont use tape them SEPARATELY . DO NOT TAPE THEM TOGETHER and cause them to touch each other it will short out the radio and you will hear no sound.
STEP 2. Ok get 4 same length speaker wires and cut them long enough to go too the amp. Now these speaker wires will only send the FULL RANGE frequency signals to your amp. So note with a paper and pen how your connecting each speaker wire. I would tape one wire with black tape to remember this is the FR right, 2 tape FR left, 3 tape BK right, 4 tape Bk left. And I would make the copper thread of the wire positive and silver thread of the wire negative (very important so that your in phase and it will sound awesome) mixing up the positive and negatives will give you a tinney sound and it horrible to hear .
STEP 3 connect these 4 speaker wires to the High level out speaker wires coming out of the radio. The wires that are already connected to the 2 4ohm speakers go ahead and splice into them and the ones you didnt use connect to the remaining 2/4 speakers. REMEMBER OR NOTE THE CONNECTIONS cause you have to connect the right sequence and right polarity + & - to the HI Level input of the AMP. You will not use any RCA'S from the radio to the amp anymore. Since your radio dont have any Front & Rear output coming from the back of the radio. (YOU CANNOT USE BOTH RCA INPUT & HI LEVEL INPUT OF THE AMP ITS 1 or the other OR YOU WILL BURN OUT THE AMP AND DAMAGE THE RADIO)
STEP 4. Now connect your 2 6ohm speakers of your front left and back left together in parallel and your 2 6ohm speakers of your front right and back right together in parallel. Look at the diagram hook it on the left connections as in the picture of the front left speaker(but your connecting two 6ohms valued at 3ohms when in parallel and the amp can handle 2ohms so its safe) Do the same connection for your two right speakers as shown in the diagram of the Front right speaker. SWITCH THE HPF to OFF so that you get full range out of your speakers. Mid range is 70% of your music if you turn it ON you are only getting the high frequencies and it will sound awful.
STEP 5. This is the final connection Your 6 ohm sub is very bad for this amp. For example if you bridge it off of the last two channels the amp may double the power. If each channel is 100 watts and you connect the positive to one channels positive and connect the negative to the others channel negative(presuming its bridgeable) On a regular 4ohm sub it will be getting 200 Watts of power which is an average thump. Now you put a 6 ohm sub it will be weak and it will be getting around 130Watts. To make it worse if this 4 Channel amp is not bridgeable you can only connect it to 1 channel and the output will be around 70 WATTS causing distortion due to lack of power. If you still connect the sub be sure the switch is ON.
Good luck cause this the best connection you can do anything different and I'm sorry it will sound even worse. I am a master installer and have done this for 12 yrs. The higher the ohms the worse the sound gets cause less power. Thats why car speakers are 4ohms and home speakers are 6 ohms or higher cause they have a bigger amplifier to power and 120volts AC current. A car only has a 12Volt DC current powering the amp.
punk and metal tones (late 80s): treb-7 mid-6-7 bass 6-8, presence 6-10, gain/distortion all the way up. classic rock just turn down the gain/distortion to 6-7. bridge pickup
metal mid 90s & up: treb 6-7, mids 3-5, bass 7-9, gain all the way up, presence (which is a mid and treble boost) 4-6. bridge pickup
blues SRV: treb 6, mid 6, bass 7.5, presence 8, gain 5, reverb (if you got it). use your neck pick up
of course this is subjective and depends on the guitar, cable quality, etc. it looks like a small speaker with a low watt output. that little speaker in there is going to be hard to articulate any tones. more than likely it will have a harsh bit to it cause the value of the pots and the logarythm you hear. reduce treble as needed to smooth out the harsh, keep the mids up.
U need to make sure your subs are wired correctly. And u need to make sure all your speakers are at the same ohm load. If u hook up two subs on one channel and two more on the other one u need to make sure that your subs are all 2ohm or 4ohm subs cause if u got two 4ohm subs ran parrallel then u will have a 2ohm setting and if both of them are 2ohm subs them your load will be a 1ohm load witch could harm your amp unless its an 1ohm stable amplifier.
If the other speakers play after the door speaker wires are disconnected, the problem is likely a speaker wire shorted to the door. If the vehicle had OEM amps and you didn't bypass them, that could also be a problem.
Disconnect the door speaker wires from the amp and check for continuity from the speaker wires to ground. There should be none. Also check the resistance across the speaker wires. They should read approximately the same as the rated impedance of the speakers.