a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Sometimes bad caps show a lifting or rounding of the top of the cap, sometimes this top will split from heat and pressure and sometimes it will not show any sign of damage but will be dry inside and its capacitance value will drop to a very low value. Replace the big power supply caps and test again. Get the same size, value and voltage rating. You can go higher on voltage rating and a bit on value. Getting a similar size or something that will fit in the same space is important also.
there is an underlying cause for the fuse to blow. if something shorts out you would rather a 40 cent peice goes then the unit causing a fire. disassembly is require... look for obvious burnt parts first.
There is actually some good news. I had this problem with my PB10s (1 have 2 PB10s and 2 PB12s) It is one of 2 things, the first is that it could be a capacitor and resister combination on the amplifier board (which was the fix for our PB10 with the same problem), or 2nd, the AMP IC, which is not available for the PB12. hmmm