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If your sub woofers are DVC 4OHM:
Connecting three together in Parallel/Parallel would make your amplifier run a 0.67OHM load or if connected Series/Parallel then you would have a 2.67OHM load.
If your sub woofers are DVC 2OHM:
Connecting three together in Parallel/Parallel would make your amplifier run a 0.36OHM load or if connected Seies/Parallel then you would have a 1.67OHM load and Series/Series a 12OHM load.
So if your sub woofers are really DVC, it would be impossible that your amp would be playing 4OHM. The numbers just don't add up.
There are amplifiers out there that can deal with 0.50OHM loads but expect them to be on the pricey side, but fairly so, because mostly higher end brands tend to manufacture them and are usually pretty good.
Remove 1 of the sub woofers.
If i knew what the subs where 4 or 2 OHM DVC and what amplifier you are using i would tell you how to connect them for the best possible result.
hope this helps
1. Check if your power cable is of adequate Gauge
2. Try turning the volume down from the amplifier gain level
3. You could even check to see if your battery is on it's way out and just cant feed the amplifier with the power it needs. (very rare case) do the car lights dim when the volume is not really that loud?
4. There could be an error on the way the subs are connected, double check that you have absolutely configured them to run @ 4OHM. could be checked with a multimeter before connecting to the amplifier.
5. Another rare case is sometimes the fuse block expands when it heats up on loud volumes and can have contact issues so try tightening the socket that the fuse goes into.
6. It could also be a problem with one of the sub woofer or even the amplifier.
more details might help me better understand the problem, but i hope this helps.
yes, you can splice the cables and put on a new connector, goto radio shack with the old connector and im sure they will have one you can splice right onto it. ive done this many times with varios equipment "headphones speakers etc" it may take a couple of tries to get the wiring right but if its just one speaker there will most likely be just 2 wires, if you wire it up and it doesnt quite sound right, wire it the other way. speakers will work wired backwards but wont sound quit right so if it doesnt, rewire it and it should. good luck and i hope this helps!
Yes you can modify RCA cables to make bare wire tails. If the unit has a sub o/p then you just connect up your sub bass unit to whatever the amp needs.
An RCA cable is 2 wire which is all you would normally need for sub bass speaker level signal. It may be a good idea to eventually upgrade the wire size if you want really good sub bass as lower frequencies draw more current and so require more copper.
Please let me know if this any help, thanks for using FixYa.
Hello, I have a 2000 ES300 and while the body style is different believe the newer model still has the rear deck mountedsub-woofer that you are referring to. The process of removing this speaker would start off the same as if you were going to replace the third brake light also located in this housing. Using a flathead screwdriver work your way around prying/popping up all four corners of the speaker grill covering the speaker that have the retainer clips. Once you disengage the clips work/maneuver the grill up and towards you gently and it should slide out. The bulb for the third brae light will be attached to this speaker grill, disconnect the snap wire from the bulb and you should have a clear visual of the speaker and the four bolthead screws securing it. Remove these screws and your almost home free. The next part might be slightly more difficult. If the speaker s simply connected by a clipped on wiring harness, just detach.On my 2000 ES300 i have the pioneer system(Not Nakimichi) and the 2 wires (one black, and one red) are soldered directly to the speaker. You can take a soldering iron(maybe a battery or gas powered one unless you have an inverter) and remelt the solder to remove the wires or you can elect to simply cut the wires. If you choose to cut them make sure you cut them as close as possible to the soldered joints so you have plenty of wire left to install the replacement speaker.Then install replacement either soldering or using crimp clamps and reassemble. ( Note if you simply want to add a aftermarket amplified sub-woofer you don't need to remove the sub-woofer out of the housing. You can tap into the wire leads and run it directly to the amplifier. Just cut one of the wires leading to the stock sub-woofer so it doesn't also come on and potentially blow while the radio is on. This will also prevent any bass humming when the radio is shut off but the aftermarket amplifier is still on because once one of the wires to the stock sub-woofer is disconnected or cut it breaks the circuit. Hope this helps.
You did not specify the impedance or the model of your Audiopipe replacement woofer but if it is the TS-V6 DVC 6.5", then the impedance of each voice coil is 4ohms. If you wired the coils in parallel, you now have a 2ohm load to the amp. At 2 ohms, the amp tries to produce more power, and even at moderate volume, can be driven into clipping causing distortion. Not good for the amp. Definitely not good for the woofer.
I'd try wiring the woofer coils in series and see if it stops cutting out.
This is normal. I also have a 2000 ES300. This became a problem when i tried to run an aftermarket sub off of the wire leads from the stock sub-woofer. When I would switch the radio off there would be a loud, deep, constant bass tone. As far as I know you cannot stop the voltage from continuously supplying the sub-woofer this is the way the factory amplifier is programmed, however, if you cut one of the wires(youhave to cut because wires are soldered to sub-woofer) the humming noise will not occur when radio is shut off. Cut the wire in middle and add crimp connectors so you can reconnect later if needed. You only need to cut one and it doesn't matter whether it's the black or red wire.