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Solution: Repair or replace auto-rewind system. Cause: The built in auto-rewind system that supposed to work when film is finished but because it is faulty it receives wrong signal when film is lloaded. So the camera thinks the film is at the end of the roll. Possible cost: $65-$75
If you are using 120 film (medium format) you only need to advance the film as far as possible. Then remove the film from the camera and wrap the excess paper around the roll and seal.
When you finish all the pictures on the roll of 35mm film you will need to rewind the film completely before exposing it to light. You can do this by taking the camera in a pitch dark room, removing the film and turning the knob on the top of the film roll until the film has been completely wound back into the the roll.
There is a crank located on the top of the camera. Some Lomo's Ive seen have it located on the left, but it will always be on the side of the camera where you placed the film. Many cameras will also have arrows indicating what direction to turn it in order to wind the film back in. If there are no arrows, place your ruined roll of film (or a new roll of film) into the camera, and try winding it with the back open (if you're using a new roll of film, don't roll it all the way in, or you'll waste another roll).
If there is no crank, or it is broken, you can always unload your camera in perfect darkness (no red lights), and wind it back into the canister by hand.
If it was just the folding lever part of the rewinder which has broken off then you'll need to use a flat bladed screwdriver or the tip of a knife to lever up the rewind knob sufficiently to pull it up and open the camera.
If you've broken any more than that, then your camera is unrepairable. Spare parts are not available for your camera as it's only designed to last for six rolls of film. Even regular Lomo and Holga models are only intended to last for a maximum of twelve films.
If your film was TOTALLY blank then it's been bleached due to a processing error. By totally blank, I mean that there are no frame numbers or other film markings on your blank film. Otherwise, you simply have an unexposed film.
First, operate the camera with the camera back open, hold the camera up to a bright light and operate the camera as you look into the back of the lens. If you see a brief bit of light coming through as you operate the shutter then the shutter is admitting light into the camera and so you should have got some kind of an image unless you failed to correctly load the film (very common).
Unfortunately, there's no way to tell unless you try another roll of film. Once the film is loaded, turn the rewind crank gently to take up slack film and take a few pictures; each time you advance the film the rewind crank should turn a little. If it doesn't then the film has not been correctly loaded as the film leader has not engaged onto the take-up spool. If so, open the camera and re-engage the film. If it clearly has engaged, then the take-up spool is failing to rotate when the film is advanced: try taking a few shots and winding on the film with the back open. If the film is not advancing then you have a faulty Lomo. This is extremely common as it is a plastic toy camera with atrocious build quality and materials and is the FishEye is only designed for paltry ten rolls of film lifespan.
A final check for film which has not advanced through the camera is if the rewind is extremely short when the film has finished.
Usually the automatic rewind starts when the film roll has come to the end. You can rewind also before that by a rewinding button you'll find usually somewhere in the camera body.
To rewind manually, press the film release button (consult the manual if you don't find it) and use the rewinding lever to rewind the film. See this for inspiration: http://www.ehow.com/how_2028878_film-mm-manual-slr-camera.html
First, are you absolutely sure that you haven't just reached the end of the film roll?
There are no repair manuals for this model. It's designed to last for about 12 rolls of film before it's worn out like other Lomo's in their "toy camera" range.
It's very cheaply designed and constructed and was never intended to be repaired, so if your camera is still under warranty (regardless of how many rolls of film you've shot) then make a claim. The plastic gears inside are like those on all Lomo toy cameras: awful. They may as well have just made them from cheese...
If the gears are not stripped you can try brute force by slapping the camera down onto a hard surface a few times to try and unjam the mechanism, although it risks making the fault worse. But as the camera isn't working what do you have to lose? The same applies to trying to dismantle the camera to find the fault, but you'll have to work out how to do so for yourself. Most current Lomos are simply clipped together with a minimum of screws.
If you're not covered by the warranty and cannot repair yours, then you'll need to consider whether to invest another £40 on a camera which really shouldn't be selling for more than £10 maximum.