Model no. 23832, won't spin, lid switch is good and so is motor coupler. HELP

Check door switch: If the lid switch is bad it will not drain or spin. Try this test: With lid open let it finish wash cycle. Press lid switch down with screwdriver. Washer should begin draining. Release switch. Motor should stop. Press switch a second time. Washer should start spinning as it continues to drain. If motor doesn't come on while lid switch is pressed, replace the switch. OR
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see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

please see the causes with common sense, before to proceed to exchange some error parts. God bless you
Water Level Control / Pressure Switch
his is the most common reason a washer will agitate but not spin. To check this on most , with no water you should have continuity on pins 7&15. With the tub full 7&16 should have continuity. This video walks you thru checking another type of switch.

Lid Switch
This can be the problem for the washer not spinning . Most whirlpool styles this will effect both agitate and spin but some models will still agitate but not spin.This is easy to check. You will need to remove the switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same. When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace the Lid Switch.

Timer
To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace the Timer, if it does the timer is not the problem.

Motor
To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere.

Belt
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.

Motor Coupler
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to thetransmission. The following video will walk you through the replacement of the Motor Coupler.

Transmission
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise theproblem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.

That is most likely a broken drive coupler. The coupler mounts between the motor and transmission. The part 285753 is relatively inexpensive and is easy to replace. This washer was designed to be serviced by removing the skin or case. To do so you must flip up the controls then pop the clips and unplug the washer lid switch. then tip the case towards you and lift it out the way. Their are numerous videos out there which show coupler replacement. I recently worked on a washer like this and made a home movie:



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

see the next step and use the common sense: God bless you
Lid Switch
This is the most common reason for the washer not spinning or agitating. This is easy to check. You will need to remove the switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same. When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace the Lid Switch.

Timer
To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace the Timer, if it does the timer is not the problem.

Motor
To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere.

Belt
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.

Motor Coupler
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replacement of the Motor Coupler.

Transmission
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.

see this probably cause:
t doesn't pump or spin
frozen pulley or broken belt, replace
It pumps, but doesn't spin
lid switch defective,motor coupler defective,belt broken,clutch broken,drive motor defective.
It spins only with the lid closed
lid swtich defective.

Sounds as if your lid switch is open. You can by pas it under the control panel on the right in the back it is a the wire plug. Connect the black and brown on the switch side which will allow you to just plug a new one when or if you deciced you needed this "safety" feature. Do not put any part of your body in machine while spinning. Your welcome, Masta tech.

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

Based on your post, if you mean manually advancing the timer it will drain, it's a coupler. If you mean manually activating the lid switch, it is the lid switch or lid switch strike.

( this is based on the most common Whirlpool, Estate, Kitchen-Aid, Roper, Kenmore, Inglis top-load washer, not necessarily applicable to ALL...based on the model provided, it cover's yours)

Thank you for choosing FixYa. Please take a moment to rate the info I provided and a short testimony is appreciated.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

since the coupler is new and lid switch was jumped i would be looking at the connections on the motor plug that you disconnected to replace coupler depending on your exact model there is the main plug the 2 wires on the capicator and a smaller plug. BUT FIRST recheck lid switch what must be jumped out is the connection leading up to control panel and NOT the part in the cabinet
to me a appliance tech w/30 years experience it sounds like a bad lid switch!

The motor has a double pole on it. The pump is driven on one side of the motor. The basket is driven on the other end of the motor. So if the water is pumped out then the lid switch is fine. What you have is a broken drive coupler. Usually breaks on a heavy load like rugs or quilts. Low water on a heavy load can break it too. Or simply old age.

Video:
Repair manual and more photos HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61