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Usually don't need one
12v DC to posative (red)
12v Ground to Chassis or body of Amp
Possibly an Ignition Key 12v to hold memory settings
2 Speaker Unit will have 4 wires - 2 to each speaker
one wire of each pair will have a stripe (say negative)
keep striped wire to same speaker terminals to keep the speakers in phase with each other (speaker cones travel in same direction or you get distortion)
4 Speaker Unit - same as above but either Front Pair or Rear Pair.
Get the Amp on a bench & test the unit with a couple of cheap temporary speakers.
Not sure what you mean by AB but being that this is a monoblock or 1 channel amplifier you can only hook it up 1 way. Verify the polarity from your speaker box. + to + and - to -. As far as your impedance is concerned this amp is stable to 1.5 ohms but for this case we will assume you have two 4 ohm subwoofers. When you parallel these together you will have a total effective load of 2 ohms on the amplifier. This is a stable operating impedance for the amp.
Other impedance options are:
two 8 ohm speakers = 4 ohm load three 8 ohm speakers = 2.66 ohms
If you have dual voice coil subwoofers then parallel the coils on each sub + to + and - to -. Depending on the impedance of each sub you may then have to wire the individual subwoofers in series. Here is an example.
2 dual voice coils with 4 ohm taps
Each subwoofer with the coils in parallel would be a 2 ohm load if you were to then parallel the two subwoofers together you would have 1 ohm total load on your amp. This is BAD for your amp. Your option is to run the subwoofers in series.
To run the speakers in series is simple. The + from one speaker and the - from the other will be connected to the amp. The other + and - from the speakers will be connected together.
First you need to determine what kind of subwoofer it is and by that i mean, is it a dual voice coil subwoofer or a single voice coil sub woofer.
Dual voice coil(DVC)
Depending on how many Ohms each voice coil is you will have the amplifier drive a specific load (4OHM stereo (75 RMS x 2) 150RMS total power / 2OHM stereo(100RMS x 2) 200RMS total power) Connect each voice coils separatley to each speaker output of the amplifier for this configaration. Always making sure that the + & - of each voice coil go to the coresponding location of the speaker outputs of your amplifier.
If your sub woofer is a single 4OHM voice coil then your cables should be connected to the coresponding location on your amplifier which states "BRIDGED" It is marked clearly on the speaker outputs of your amplfier.
If it is a 2OHM then do not connect it to the amplifier. The specific amplifier is not stable at 2OHMS bridged and will most likely get damaged if you try to operate it at that OHM load.
On the side of the amplifier where the adjustments are there is a switch that indicates X-OVER. (LPF/HPF/FULL) Make sure to set it to LPF (Low Pass Filter). (not doing so can damage the subwoofer)
On the left hand side of the X-OVER there is the adjustment for the LPF (30-250) the best setting would be at the same frequency that your speakers stop
If your speakers have a frequency response of 60Hz to 20KHz then setting your LPF to roughly 70 to 80 will be ideal. The rule is that where one speaker drivers frequency ends, the other must continue in order to complete the full range of audible frequencies.
if you have any more questions feel free to ask.
Here is the link how the speakers are suppose to be connected.
You notice how they hook it up the left connections are your full range or hi frequency speakers and the switch is on for HPF (High pass Filter meaning only high frequency is being passed thru)
The right connections are connected to subs and the switch is on for LPF (Low pass Filter meaning only low frequency is being passed thru)
If you turn off these switches to off the its FULL RANGE all frequencies will pass thru.
The single output of the radio is probably for a subwoofer output but since your using the amp to power speakers too Its useless because your sending only low frequencies to the amp which will make any speakers connected to the amp sound horrible due too all the highs and mids will be filtered out.
STEP 1. 2 4ohm speakers depending where you put them Front or back. Hook these speakers up to the Radio's speaker wires coming out of the radio harness. You can also call them Hi level output wires FR & FL wires if positioning them in the Front. Hook them to the RL or RR if positioning them in the Back. What ever wires you dont use tape them SEPARATELY . DO NOT TAPE THEM TOGETHER and cause them to touch each other it will short out the radio and you will hear no sound.
STEP 2. Ok get 4 same length speaker wires and cut them long enough to go too the amp. Now these speaker wires will only send the FULL RANGE frequency signals to your amp. So note with a paper and pen how your connecting each speaker wire. I would tape one wire with black tape to remember this is the FR right, 2 tape FR left, 3 tape BK right, 4 tape Bk left. And I would make the copper thread of the wire positive and silver thread of the wire negative (very important so that your in phase and it will sound awesome) mixing up the positive and negatives will give you a tinney sound and it horrible to hear .
STEP 3 connect these 4 speaker wires to the High level out speaker wires coming out of the radio. The wires that are already connected to the 2 4ohm speakers go ahead and splice into them and the ones you didnt use connect to the remaining 2/4 speakers. REMEMBER OR NOTE THE CONNECTIONS cause you have to connect the right sequence and right polarity + & - to the HI Level input of the AMP. You will not use any RCA'S from the radio to the amp anymore. Since your radio dont have any Front & Rear output coming from the back of the radio. (YOU CANNOT USE BOTH RCA INPUT & HI LEVEL INPUT OF THE AMP ITS 1 or the other OR YOU WILL BURN OUT THE AMP AND DAMAGE THE RADIO)
STEP 4. Now connect your 2 6ohm speakers of your front left and back left together in parallel and your 2 6ohm speakers of your front right and back right together in parallel. Look at the diagram hook it on the left connections as in the picture of the front left speaker(but your connecting two 6ohms valued at 3ohms when in parallel and the amp can handle 2ohms so its safe) Do the same connection for your two right speakers as shown in the diagram of the Front right speaker. SWITCH THE HPF to OFF so that you get full range out of your speakers. Mid range is 70% of your music if you turn it ON you are only getting the high frequencies and it will sound awful.
STEP 5. This is the final connection Your 6 ohm sub is very bad for this amp. For example if you bridge it off of the last two channels the amp may double the power. If each channel is 100 watts and you connect the positive to one channels positive and connect the negative to the others channel negative(presuming its bridgeable) On a regular 4ohm sub it will be getting 200 Watts of power which is an average thump. Now you put a 6 ohm sub it will be weak and it will be getting around 130Watts. To make it worse if this 4 Channel amp is not bridgeable you can only connect it to 1 channel and the output will be around 70 WATTS causing distortion due to lack of power. If you still connect the sub be sure the switch is ON.
Good luck cause this the best connection you can do anything different and I'm sorry it will sound even worse. I am a master installer and have done this for 12 yrs. The higher the ohms the worse the sound gets cause less power. Thats why car speakers are 4ohms and home speakers are 6 ohms or higher cause they have a bigger amplifier to power and 120volts AC current. A car only has a 12Volt DC current powering the amp.
A better solution would be
1: Get a seperate amp for the sub itself
2: Run 2 speakers on ch 1 and 2 speakers on ch 2. I assume your speakers are 4 ohms, in stereo mode that amp is stable to 2 ohms. The bridge the subwoofer on ch 3 & 4. That will work if you just want to use that amp. If you need more help you can email me @ email@example.com Hope this helps...
remove all speaker connections to your amp. MAke sure the inputs are driving all 4 channels, and that the built in crossovers on the amp are all set to full range. Conect your full range speaker to each output channel one at a time and verify there is oputput on all 4 channels. If all is ok, then connect your rear speakers to the front(a) outputs of your 4 channel amp, and then use the second 2 channels (rear or B) bridged to drive the sub. Re-configure the crossovers for highpass for front (to drive your rear speakers) and lowpass for sub. This is the proper way to connect a 4 channel amp with a sup whle driving 2 full range speakers.
Your question appears under the product listing for the Dual XPA4100 but the in the text you say the amp is actually a Jensen, so it's not possible to provide specific connection information.
But most bridgeable amps can be connected to a single subwoofer and the other two channels used to drive a set of regular speakers. I'd connect the front speakers to channels 1 and 2 and wire the subwoofer to the bridge connections of channels 3 and 4. On the XPA4100, the bridge terminals are the first (negative) terminal on channel 4 and the last (positive) terminal on channel 3.
The Schneider SPA-9705 is a 4-channel bridgeable amp. How you intend to use it and what speaker(s) or subwoofer(s) you are connecting to it will determine the appropriate hookup.
If used to drive 4 sets of normal speakers, you would connect your front channels to one set of inputs (usually 1 and 2) and the rear channels to the other set. You would not use the subwoofer outputs coming from the deck.
If used to drive subwoofer(s), you would need two "Y" adapters with a female input side and 2 male outputs. The cables marked "subwoofer" would be plugged into the female "Y" and the male ends would be plugged into the 4 channel inputs on the amp (paired as 1-2 and 3-4). The front and rear preamp outputs on the deck would not be used.
Speaker/subwoofer connections will depend of the number of individual speakers or subs, whether they have single or dual voice coils, and the impedances of the voice coils.
A single 4 ohm speaker wired to each channel, like you have them wired, presents a 4 ohm load. And it appears that you have them connected properly. The 401s is only stable to 4 ohms when bridged, so if you were to parallel the 2 4 ohm subs in bridged mode, the load would be 2 ohms and the amp would most likely overheat and go into protection.
I'd wire them the way you have them wired.
Each channel of the amp outputs only 100 watts into 4 ohms. That is adequate for regular full-range speakers, component speakers, mid-range drivers, and even some small subs. But it is a little low on power for most subwoofer applications.
This sounds like a gain setting problem on your amp. The best way to adjust is to set your volume on the head unit to about 75% volume and then adjust the gain up until it sounds distorted a little. Back it off jst enough for the distortion to go away and you are set. Only other thing to try is use a multimeter set on Ohms to test the resistance of your speaker configuration. Looks like 2000 is th peak power (not RMS) and is only possible at high current configurations. You are probably running at 4 Ohms, but this amp only puts out rated power at 1 ohm stereo or 2 ohm bridged. Many people say Performance Technique are overrated, so maybe not even what it is rated at - 350 x 2 @ 2 ohms bridged (probably only about 175 x 2 at 4 ohms bridged)