I have a warning light on my mtx jackhammer jh300 amp

Try another set of speakers to see if that works. If so, it could be your subs. Also, check ohm reading on each sub.

have you checked the amp fuse ? also never connect while battery is connected. be sure to connect the amp to amp specs as stated in user manual i had the same problem and it was as simple as a missed connection however it could be a multitude of isues causeing the problem most of which are in the user manual. also check the earthing cable is hooked up and be sure no power supply is earthing out on the car. Protection mode is generaly activated when the amp isnt connected properly or by fault of power supply. double check evenrything and check again.

Check the speaker connections from the amp to the box and inside the box to the sub. Its possible these came loose from vibration. Also gently push in on the sub. It should move freely and feel spongy. If it drags or is stiff the sub may be bad. Use an Ohm meter and test the sub. There is an Ohm rating on the sub (usually 4) and it should be close to that. Also check the audio in. Maybe the amp/sub combo is fine but there is no sound going in. Use an MP3 player with a 3.5MM to 2M RCA cable as an input. Start with the volume all the way down and SLOWLY raise the MP3 volume.
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The problem was caused by you trying to run a 2OHM load on an amplifier which is designed to run only on 4OHM when it is bridged, the amplifier is most definatley cooked. An authorized MTX technician should take a look at it, to determine just how wide spread the damage is.
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Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Double check all connections. GOOD LUCK. A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you. Worth fixing.

Your amp should not have a 50 amp fuse at the battery. It puts out 300 watts RMS (continuous power). The fuse at your battery should match the one that is on the amp itself. Your amp is overheating and there is a fault, possibly your speakers are wired to present too low of an impedance to your amp. Disconnect them from your amp, and use an ohmmeter/multimeter and measure the resistance load. It should not be lower than roughly 2 ohms. Depending on whether you bought dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm subs, that could be the heart of your problem.

If you bought D2 subs, you can get a 4 ohm load per sub with each sub's voice coils in series, and then parallel them together to get a 2 ohm load at the amp, which is perfect for your amp. Or you can wire each sub's voice coils in parallel, so that they're 1 ohm each, and then series them together at the amp for a 2 ohm load. The first method is simpler. Be sure that you haven't wired each voice coil in parallel (1 ohm per sub), and THEN also wired both subs in parallel to the amp (1/2 ohm load). That would definitely send your amp into protection mode, probably before it would have a chance to overheat. This is another reason why you should not have used a 50 amp fuse under the hood. If for whatever reason, the fuse on your amp doesn't blow, the amp is getting way too much current for it to handle, because of that 50 amp fuse under the hood.

If you bought D4 subs, you have a problem. If you've wired each sub's coils in parallel (2 ohm per sub) and then wired both subs together in parallel at the amp (1 ohm load) you're presenting too low of a load to your amp. Again, this will overheat your amp and send it into protection mode, both of which are what you're seeing. You never want to have two D4 subs with an amp that only handles 2 ohms, because you can't get a 2 ohm load with two D4s. You're stuck with 4 ohms or 1 ohm. 4 ohms cuts your amp power in half, 1 ohm cuts it off completely.

If you know for sure which way you've wired them, then you now have the information to tell you whether you've done it incorrectly or not. If you're not sure, first disconnect your subs and measure the resistance as I described in the first paragraph. If your amp is seeing a 1 ohm or 1/2 ohm load, there's your problem. If you see a 2 ohm load (subs are wired correctly after all) then you may have a bad ground connection, or your amp is bad and needs to be serviced/replaced.

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Hello djmalibu77,

You do not say if the amp has been installed and working properly for some time or if the problem began immediately upon installation.

If the amp was just installed, I'd suspect a wiring problem. Either a faulty ground or too low of an impedance.

If the amp has bee working properly and the problem just started, I'd start by removing all connections except ground, power, and remote and see if the amp powers up properly. If it does, reconnect the wiring one at a time to determine where the faulty wire or component is located. A grounded or shorted input, shorted voice coil, or a short or ground in the output wiring will cause an amp to go into protection. If these all check out, it's probably a fault in the amp itself.

Hope this helps.

the light with the power light(middle) is a blue/purple faint light try checking it out at night.The squiggy(as heat waves) will only light when the amps shuts down due to thermal protection(wait for it to cool). The bolt/yellow (short circuit) will light when there is an electrical overload in any of the wires(check +ve leads).

bad bulb or bad ground wire would be my guess