Question about Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W Portable Generator

1 Answer

Carb bowl How do you remove the carb bowl? Its a gen power 305--10HP subaro engine with no 12mm lug on the botoom of the bowl to open.

Posted by on


1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points


    An expert that got 5 achievements.


    An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.


    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

  • Expert
  • 72 Answers

The first thing I want to say is this.

If you have a chance to dump this Robin/Subaru Genset please do so!

I say this because the Manual docs for these R/S engines and/or Gensets are so poorly written in comparison to say Briggs & Stratton or Honda engines that it's like DAY and NIGHT in comparison.

My personal GENERAC 5500 Genset (that uses a B&S 10HP engine) Users Manual is like a Chilton Auto Manual in comparison to the R/S literature. No offense, but it's the truth!

It would be nice to have the WHOLE engine model # for starters, but seeings it's a 10hp Robin/Subaru it no doubt doesn't even have the TORX head style Carb bolts/studs requiring Torx sockets.

If it does by chance - then I'm not sure what size they normally are, as I don't have the exact model #, so I guess you're on your own there and will have to find a set of Torx sockets first.

If the Float Bowl has no Main Jet external adjustment screw assy at the bottom of the Float Bowl, or retainer bolt/nut, then the Float Bowl is screw threaded on in a CW direction.

You may have to use a rubber sleeve (like a 2" cut piece of rubber inner tubing from an old bike tire) and slip it over the bowl to help unscrew it. A smaller rubber band type wrench will work also, but I would hand tighten it so as not to damage anything.

It shouldn't be tightened on that tight to begin with. Be very careful replacing it and the seal gasket (or sometimes an O-ring) making sure the threads are lined up exactly right otherwise you will cross-thread the Bowl or the Carb Body!!

I can't be any more help then that, as that's all I have to work with here.

Let me know if that does it?

Post a reply here please.

Thx and best regards,


Posted on Sep 04, 2008

  • Frank JR
    Frank JR Sep 10, 2008


    My answer:

    Almost 90-95% of all the Genset problems found by the factory approved Genset Service Centers
    are related to the fact that people don't read the OWNERS MANUAL first, and
    just didn't put OIL in the Genset (or the right amount) - as they are shipped from the MFR
    without OIL in the units to begin with!!!! (See esp #3 and Final Notes below as well)

    And here I thought everybody KNEW THAT!!

    I guess sometimes you just have to ask the most OBVIOUS ??'s first huh (dumb as " it " may sound)?

    If you bought your Genset from other then a Home
    Depot Store, and it's still under warranty - then you will have to
    contact that outlet, and see what they have to say or hopefully can do
    for you.

    Esp all those Gensets that are Made in China and have flooded the USA
    market in the last 10 years or so - no thanks to our representatives in
    WASH DC that's for sure. It's a wonder this country even functions with
    all this "inferior" Made in China JUNK that keeps prematurely failing
    before it's normal time. Sad to say the least!

    Some other obvious things to CHECK for that may be the cause of a NO
    start condition even after adding proper gas & oil to the brand new

    1 - Some Genset gas tanks come with a gas cap "blocking insert" under
    the gas cap that should be removed according to your manual if it
    states this. (Read manual section on "First Time Starting")

    2 - Is the gas tank shutoff valve FULLY OPEN? By the same token
    if the Genset is or isn't brand new) does it have an in-line fuel
    filter anywhere in the gas line? If not then esp read #5. Always check
    as well the AIR FILTER for proper cleanliness (if oiled type), or clean
    appearance if it's a paper element type. Clean or replace as needed!

    3 - Is the RUN SWITCH set to ON or RUN position (this is purely an
    "Electrical ON-OFF Switch" usually a single-pole single-throw type btw,
    and it can go bad with high usage)? Does it move freely from OFF to ON?
    Is it working properly? Test it using a known good quality DVM
    or OHM meter! It's contacts may have become tarnished just from sitting
    too long? Esp where you have saltwater conditions in the surrounding
    air! This switch actually & electronically is wired in REVERSE so
    that when switched to the ON position the wired contacts are OPEN thus
    letting the Ignition Coil fire for SPARK. When switched to the OFF
    position the wired contacts are now CLOSED thus connecting (or
    switching) the "Control Board" logic voltage signal (usually anywhere
    from +3 to +12 VDC upon start-up) to GROUND - thus cutting the RUN
    voltage to the Ignition Coil fire - as in SHUTDOWN. On some model
    designs there also may be a separate IDLE CONTROL SWITCH and POWER
    REGULATOR BOARD for better POWER LOAD self-regulation depending on
    constant variable loads placed on the Genset as related to the
    work-site demands. If there is NO VOLTAGE OUTPUT but yet good engine
    RPM function - then I would look at this part first and then #8.

    4 - Is the choke being set to the proper position with or without using Ether spray to the Carb?

    5 - Does the Carb have a Yellow or Black wire coming off of the bottom
    of the Float Bowl? This goes to the GAS CUT OFF SOLENOID mounted in the
    Main Jet inside the Float Bowl. NEVER CUT THIS WIRE as some know-nothings have
    suggested here and elsewhere in postings, as there are better ways to test the solenoid without doing
    that! If equipped with one - This anti-dieseling solenoid has to work
    properly or else flooding will occur with the gas shutoff valve OPEN.

    6 - VERY IMPORTANT - Is the Carb Float stuck in the CLOSED position
    not letting gas into the Main Jet? If the Genset is brand brand new and
    truly has never been fired up even once and used, such as like that of
    2-3 years or longer from actual date of purchase, then that Carb Float
    may very well be stuck CLOSED. Worse yet - the Main Jet may be clogged
    with MICRO DEBRIS coming down from the new gas tank - esp if there is
    NO FUEL FILTER present in the fuel line. I've heard of this happening
    more then just a few times myself. You might try
    and TAP CAREFULLY on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl
    with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the
    stuck Float inside. If there is that colored WIRE (see #5 again) at the
    bottom of the Float Bowl
    HAMMER - as you WILL damage it! If this dislodges the stuck Carb Float
    to the point that the Genset now wants to run to some degree better
    then before, but not fully 100% better and to spec - then you
    definitely still have Carb Float and/or fuel delivery related issues,
    and/or MICRO DEBRIS in the Carb Bowl or Main Jet inlet. If the Genset
    begins to run great - as it should - and continues to do so -
    then your NO FUEL or NO RUN problem is solved! I would still take the
    Carb Bowl off and clean out the whole Assy there just as an added
    precaution anyway as you just never know. When Gensets are truly needed
    in an emergency condition you just don't want to RISK anything!! NEVER
    FORCE ANYTHING EITHER!! It's possibly that you might have to loosen slightly,
    and/or totally remove the
    Float Bowl (usually 2 screws) to see if indeed any gas is getting
    inside to the Float
    at all. If gas comes out readily but still no gas is getting into the
    Main Jet and intake then you purely have a DIRTY CARB issue and nothing
    If you're not smelling gas through the air filter box then you are FUEL
    STARVED. ALSO - Many a brand new shipped Genset will have some kind of
    NEW gas tank (usually metal gas tanks only) MICRO DEBRIS inside the
    tank itself or even in the rubber gas line (I've heard of this problem before,
    and seen this myself 100's of times with cheaper rubber hoses). That is
    why an added in-line FUEL FILTER (if your Genset has none) is SO
    important!! Usually a common $2-3 item at any auto parts store. Once
    gas is added to the tank all this micro debris is set free to enter
    into the CARB FLOAT BOWL, and that is where Carb problems will start -
    even with a "brand new" never run before Genset!!

  • Frank JR
    Frank JR Sep 10, 2008

    PART 2

    7 - As dumb as this next ? is to ask I have
    to ask anyway -
    Are you
    getting GOOD spark at the spark plug? Again - see #3 AND check the
    engine OIL LEVEL as well. The LOW OIL sensor is actual another ON-OFF
    type switch and if the level Some units ship with the spark
    wire cap disconnected and it may look like it's on the plug, but in
    reality it really isn't fully connected! If you are getting a good
    spark then it's highly unlikely that the Maintenance-free
    Magnetron® electronic ignition would be bad. Fouled
    spark plug - YES - bad Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic
    ignition - hardly.

    8 - If your Genset is used and said to be ? years old, and it just indeed
    might have some high RUNTIME HOURS on it - it just could very possibly
    be what sounds like to me (and I personally HAVE SEEN this
    happen myself firsthand) that the generator brushes are nearly shot
    - as in almost worn out. They may be getting too too hot - as from
    excessive current draw at point of contact, and thus the generator
    sensing circuitry itself is doing an electrical CUTOUT!!

    An added protective Genset "Control Board" circuit feature - that may
    or may not be built into your Genset - is one that is in the Generator
    Head circuitry itself and
    may indeed be linked to the engine as a type of REV LIMITER or CUTOUT
    on the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition.
    Just depends on how sophisticated and expensive your Genset is? Thus
    protects by preventing RUNAWAY and OVER-VOLTAGE conditions rare as that
    may be by today's BETTER designed Gensets (DOES NOT include the cheap
    made in China junk). Again - read your operators or service manual as
    it should have a pretty good
    troubleshooting section in it unless you don't have that anymore or
    never got one if you bought it used to begin with.

    If you unscrew & remove the Generator brushes for servicing yourself, and they are indeed
    below the recommended length (or worse case they are indeed totally
    worn down) then that most likely is your starting or output problem right there. If you are having Output problems as well.

    If you choose to replace the old brushes with new ones yourself - be
    very careful when seating the new ones - as to their insertion and cap
    retainer tightening. Never over-tighten those black plastic-like brush
    retainer screw caps - for if you break one (hard to get immediate
    replacements is why), or fracture one it could cause the Genset to fail
    under LOAD, and that very well could do some severe damage to the
    generator part itself. Take your time doing it, and be patient!!

    It has to be one of the CHECK scenarios listed above, as I've covered every
    possible cause short of a broken wire somewhere - which in that case
    you will have to schematic trace and DVM or Ohm-meter out wire to wire contacts.
    This being the least likely scenario from experience.

    If you indeed find the Float Bowl assy to be the cause of dirt
    contamination or varnish build-up clogging the Carb, and you need a
    walk-through of taking it apart, cleaning it out, and then
    re-assembling it again - as well as re-adjusting the fuel mixture Adjustment Screws - just give me a shout here, and I'll walk you through it step by step.

    Final Note: For all older used Gensets - Are you starting and running
    the Gennie for at least 10 mins every month (30 days) as required by
    most all Mfrs? Are you also keeping & running a good FUEL
    PRESERVATIVE/STABILIZER (as required) in each tank of gas no matter how
    often you run it? BEFORE you totally shutdown your Genset after running
    it (even those short 10 required mins every month) - are you first
    shutting off the gas supply completely, and then running the Genset out
    DRY from as much gas from the Carb Bowl and gas line as you can? Even
    though some "so-called" experts tell you not to do this - if you are
    NOT going to be running the Genset every 30 days or plan to store it
    for more then say 6 months at a time - THEN DO IT RELIGIOUSLY -
    otherwise you will VARNISH the Carb with contaminated GUNK buildup from
    STALE GAS! Happens all the time! Changing the DIRTY OIL frequently and
    adding the proper level of 10-30 (recommended), or 10-40 oil is VERY
    important as well. Your engine will use OIL esp if it's older with
    "higher run hours" on it. Keeping a good Maintenance Log makes GOOD
    SENSE as well. You
    should be doing all of these things as well - if you want a smooth
    running Genset when that real emergency does come up, and that Genset
    absolutely has to work 100%!

    That's about all there is unless you got a truly Defective Genset right from the start. Next stop - Home Depot!

    Best regards to all with the same problems, and hope I helped you out 100% - all political humor/truth aside.

    Please post me a reply as to finding this solution being the best
    resolve to your Genset problem there by following my recommendations
    above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.

    Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.

    Best regards,




1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

Will not run without manuely chocking

Sounds like the unit has sat, and carb gum, Try draining the carb bowl and re-filling. There is a screw at the base of the bowl. Also make sure when cold choke is closed. And it opens fully after 3 minutes. Check battery voltage on choke coil.

Dec 17, 2013 | Onan 5500 Microquiet Generator

1 Answer

Toro 6.75 hp mower, 149 cc. Kohler motor. How do I remove carburetor to clean?

Don't remove the entire Carburetor, just unbolt the Bowl from under the carb.
12mm wrench maybe

Jul 01, 2013 | Garden

1 Answer

I have a portercable 5250 generator works great starts great shutts down after about half hour maybe 20 percent load oil good disconnected oil switch, changed feul,carb seems good, bowl clean still...

Seems that you have covered all the bases. The problem that you describe could be related to fuel lock or restriction in the fuel delivery system. Easy to check. Remove the air filter and have carb cleaner ready. If you are near the gen when it begins to quit, spray just a little carb cleaner to see if engine tries to run. If engine begins to run or continues to run with carb cleaner, then suspect fuel delivery problem. If the engine seems to stop quicker with carb cleaner, suspect flooding caused by too much fuel pressure (fuel pushed past the needle due to pressure in the tank; open fuel cap and listen for air pressure release). Fuel delivery problems are caused by collapsed fuel line, restriction in the fuel cut-off valve, restriction at the fuel filter (use larger automotive type), negative pressure in tank caused by no vent at cap. Rare problem with fuel delivery is caused by sudden heat rise at the carb causing fuel to boil out of carb. This is caused by the engine running very hot, lack of air across cooling ribs caused by debris or fan missing blades. You can eliminate the complete fuel delivery system by mounting a small fuel tank on a stand and running fuel line directly to the carb for test. The tank needs to be higher than the carb so that you will have good gravity feed. Good luck

Aug 30, 2011 | Porter Cable PorterCable BSI525W 5250 Watt...

1 Answer

Yzf 250 carb settings not right.Bike is not running properly and has no power.keeps spluttering and cutting out. Can't get any idle adjustment

Drain the carb float bowl. Condensation from the gas tank has probably made its way into the bowl. If that doesn't help, remove the carb then remove the float bowl and use spray carb cleaner to clean the interior of the carb. Spray into every opening you can find.

May 31, 2011 | Yamaha Fuoco 500ie Motorcycles

1 Answer

WHen I'm driving and I want to give some gas it seems like my 2004 883sportster is dieing, so I have to let up on the throtle so the motor can take in the gas a little at a time

It sounds like your accelerator pump on the carburetor is not working. Take you air filter cover and air filter element off the carb. With the engine NOT running, look into the opening of the carb. In the opening you'll see a small brass tube standing just off to one side of the center of the opening. This is the accelerator pump nozzle. Now, crank the throttle wide open. When you do this, you should see a stream of fuel come out of the nozzle and squirt into the mouth of the carb. If it does not, your accelerator pump is not working and the accelerator pump diaphragm must be replaced.

To replace the diaphragm, you must remove the air filter backing plate. Now, you can either take the carb off the engine or you can simply remove the float bowl to replace the diaphragm. To take the carb off the engine, you'll have to disconnect the fuel lines, the throttle and idle cables, and the enricher (choke) cable. Pull the carb out of the intake manifold.

Remove the four screws that hold the float bowl onto the bottom of the carb. Lower the bowl and remove it from the carb. Turn the float bowl upside down and there will be two screws that hold the accelerator pump plate onto the float bow. Remove these two screws. Under the plate you'll find a spring, one or two small o-rings, and the diaphragm. Simply remove the diaphragm, pay particular attention to which side is down. There should be a ridge on the bottom side (upside down) that goes into a groove around the accelerator pump chamber. Put the new diaphragm in, set the spring on top of the diaphragm, make sure the small o-rings are properly positioned and install the outer plate with the two screws. Replace the float bowl on the bottom of the carb. Make sure you get the accelerator pump pushrod back into the hole in the float bowl that it goes into that you properly align the nozzle with it's hole. NEVER TURN OR TWIST THE NOZZLE, It is pressed in and not designed to be turned. Do so will damage the float bowl. Replace the screws that hold the float bowl on. Replace the air filter backing plate.

Now, You must get the bike started. Since there is not fuel in the float bowl, it is not going to start right up unless you've replaced your fuel petcock with a manual petcock. To get fuel in the bowl, you'll probably have to spin the engine a bit. While doing this, work the throttle grip and you should see the fuel start to squirt from the nozzle once you get the fuel in the bowl. Then you engine should start.

Good Luck

Dec 11, 2010 | 2004 Harley Davidson XL 883 Sportster

1 Answer

My troybuilt lawn moer. won't start. changed fuel filter, plugs,fuel pump. fuel mkes it to the bowl on the bottem of the carb. engine will run if i put fuel though carb.v twin clylinder engine. Briggs

You didn't list what engine you have. Depends on what motor and carb, but you'll have to remove the bowl. If your bowl is round with a special brass hex bolt holding it on , then be sure the passage in the bolt is open fully. Next the passage it screws into must be clear. In anycase you will probably have to remove the carb and clean every passage throughly.

Jul 26, 2010 | Troy Garden

1 Answer

How do i change the alternator on a 1998 mitsubishi montero sport

Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Remove 12mm (3) and 14mm (4) bolts holding skidplate on and remove skidplate
Loosen the 14mm nut on the tensioner, then unscrew the tensioner adjuster bolt until the belt can slide off.
Unplug the alternator electrical connector.
Unbolt the alternator cable lug (12mm or 13mm depending on alternator manufacturer)
Remove lower 12mm bolt
Remove upper 14mm pivot bolt
Use large screwdriver to pry alternator off bracket, it pinches on when the pivot bolt is tightened.
Drop alternator out bottom of engine bay; helps to unbolt or bend transmission cooler lines out of the way.

Feb 09, 2010 | 1998 Mitsubishi Montero Sport

1 Answer

Went to reserve fuel - then motor backfiring and loss of power -

Condensation in the gas tank collects at the fuel petcock. Get enough water in there and it gets into the carbs. ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb.
Put the carb back together and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

Jun 18, 2009 | 2004 Honda Shadow 400

1 Answer

Loss of power

This sounds like some water in the gas.
Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each CARB float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carbs to fill with gas. Install new stock NGK spark plugs and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetors from the engine.

FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire
CARB with a spray CARB cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the CARB. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the CARB and spray into the screw holes as well.
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
CARB back together, clean the air filter and install the CARB. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Apr 17, 2009 | 2001 Yamaha XVS 125 Dragster

1 Answer

Engine oil was throw in the gas tank, engine would not start.

You will need to clean other parts of the engine aswell, especially if it was pulled over with oil in the tank. First of all buy some carb cleaner. Now remove the bowl from the bottom of the carb by unscrewing the central bolt (10mm) underneath. You can leave the float and needle in place. Now spray the carb clean over these parts and also direct some up the jet in the middle of the carb body. Clean and replace the bowl. Now remove and clean the spark plug. Before refitting it pull the starter a few times to throw out any oil that might be sitting on the piston. It may also be wise to remove and check the exhaust (12mm) for oil. When it is all refitted the machine should start after a few pulls. It will probably still have some oil in the sytem so don't be alarmed if it smokes (white) for a couple of minutes. Once this has all burned off you should be fully operational again.

Oct 28, 2008 | Honda Garden

Not finding what you are looking for?
Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W Portable Generator Logo

635 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Coleman Electrical Supplies Experts

John Trevino

Level 3 Expert

1388 Answers

Phil Walker
Phil Walker

Level 3 Expert

608 Answers

Tim Garcia
Tim Garcia

Level 2 Expert

66 Answers

Are you a Coleman Electrical Supply Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides