Question about Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W Portable Generator

1 Answer

Carb bowl How do you remove the carb bowl? Its a gen power 305--10HP subaro engine with no 12mm lug on the botoom of the bowl to open.

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Novelist:

    An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

  • Expert
  • 72 Answers

The first thing I want to say is this.

If you have a chance to dump this Robin/Subaru Genset please do so!

I say this because the Manual docs for these R/S engines and/or Gensets are so poorly written in comparison to say Briggs & Stratton or Honda engines that it's like DAY and NIGHT in comparison.

My personal GENERAC 5500 Genset (that uses a B&S 10HP engine) Users Manual is like a Chilton Auto Manual in comparison to the R/S literature. No offense, but it's the truth!

It would be nice to have the WHOLE engine model # for starters, but seeings it's a 10hp Robin/Subaru it no doubt doesn't even have the TORX head style Carb bolts/studs requiring Torx sockets.

If it does by chance - then I'm not sure what size they normally are, as I don't have the exact model #, so I guess you're on your own there and will have to find a set of Torx sockets first.

If the Float Bowl has no Main Jet external adjustment screw assy at the bottom of the Float Bowl, or retainer bolt/nut, then the Float Bowl is screw threaded on in a CW direction.

You may have to use a rubber sleeve (like a 2" cut piece of rubber inner tubing from an old bike tire) and slip it over the bowl to help unscrew it. A smaller rubber band type wrench will work also, but I would hand tighten it so as not to damage anything.

It shouldn't be tightened on that tight to begin with. Be very careful replacing it and the seal gasket (or sometimes an O-ring) making sure the threads are lined up exactly right otherwise you will cross-thread the Bowl or the Carb Body!!

I can't be any more help then that, as that's all I have to work with here.

Let me know if that does it?

Post a reply here please.

Thx and best regards,

Frank

Posted on Sep 04, 2008

  • Frank JR
    Frank JR Sep 10, 2008


    GENSET ALL PROBLEM FIXES - 2 PARTS



    My answer:



    Almost 90-95% of all the Genset problems found by the factory approved Genset Service Centers
    are related to the fact that people don't read the OWNERS MANUAL first, and
    just didn't put OIL in the Genset (or the right amount) - as they are shipped from the MFR
    without OIL in the units to begin with!!!! (See esp #3 and Final Notes below as well)



    And here I thought everybody KNEW THAT!!



    I guess sometimes you just have to ask the most OBVIOUS ??'s first huh (dumb as " it " may sound)?



    If you bought your Genset from other then a Home
    Depot Store, and it's still under warranty - then you will have to
    contact that outlet, and see what they have to say or hopefully can do
    for you.



    Esp all those Gensets that are Made in China and have flooded the USA
    market in the last 10 years or so - no thanks to our representatives in
    WASH DC that's for sure. It's a wonder this country even functions with
    all this "inferior" Made in China JUNK that keeps prematurely failing
    before it's normal time. Sad to say the least!











    Some other obvious things to CHECK for that may be the cause of a NO
    start condition even after adding proper gas & oil to the brand new
    Genset:



    1 - Some Genset gas tanks come with a gas cap "blocking insert" under
    the gas cap that should be removed according to your manual if it
    states this. (Read manual section on "First Time Starting")


    2 - Is the gas tank shutoff valve FULLY OPEN? By the same token
    (even
    if the Genset is or isn't brand new) does it have an in-line fuel
    filter anywhere in the gas line? If not then esp read #5. Always check
    as well the AIR FILTER for proper cleanliness (if oiled type), or clean
    appearance if it's a paper element type. Clean or replace as needed!



    3 - Is the RUN SWITCH set to ON or RUN position (this is purely an
    "Electrical ON-OFF Switch" usually a single-pole single-throw type btw,
    and it can go bad with high usage)? Does it move freely from OFF to ON?
    Is it working properly? Test it using a known good quality DVM
    or OHM meter! It's contacts may have become tarnished just from sitting
    around
    too long? Esp where you have saltwater conditions in the surrounding
    air! This switch actually & electronically is wired in REVERSE so
    that when switched to the ON position the wired contacts are OPEN thus
    letting the Ignition Coil fire for SPARK. When switched to the OFF
    position the wired contacts are now CLOSED thus connecting (or
    switching) the "Control Board" logic voltage signal (usually anywhere
    from +3 to +12 VDC upon start-up) to GROUND - thus cutting the RUN
    voltage to the Ignition Coil fire - as in SHUTDOWN. On some model
    designs there also may be a separate IDLE CONTROL SWITCH and POWER
    REGULATOR BOARD for better POWER LOAD self-regulation depending on
    constant variable loads placed on the Genset as related to the
    work-site demands. If there is NO VOLTAGE OUTPUT but yet good engine
    RPM function - then I would look at this part first and then #8.




    4 - Is the choke being set to the proper position with or without using Ether spray to the Carb?


    5 - Does the Carb have a Yellow or Black wire coming off of the bottom
    of the Float Bowl? This goes to the GAS CUT OFF SOLENOID mounted in the
    Main Jet inside the Float Bowl. NEVER CUT THIS WIRE as some know-nothings have
    suggested here and elsewhere in postings, as there are better ways to test the solenoid without doing
    that! If equipped with one - This anti-dieseling solenoid has to work
    properly or else flooding will occur with the gas shutoff valve OPEN.


    6 - VERY IMPORTANT - Is the Carb Float stuck in the CLOSED position
    not letting gas into the Main Jet? If the Genset is brand brand new and
    truly has never been fired up even once and used, such as like that of
    2-3 years or longer from actual date of purchase, then that Carb Float
    may very well be stuck CLOSED. Worse yet - the Main Jet may be clogged
    with MICRO DEBRIS coming down from the new gas tank - esp if there is
    NO FUEL FILTER present in the fuel line. I've heard of this happening
    more then just a few times myself. You might try
    and TAP CAREFULLY on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl
    with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the
    stuck Float inside. If there is that colored WIRE (see #5 again) at the
    bottom of the Float Bowl
    on your model - DO NOT HIT THAT GAS SHUT-OFF SOLENOID WITH THE RUBBER
    HAMMER - as you WILL damage it! If this dislodges the stuck Carb Float
    to the point that the Genset now wants to run to some degree better
    then before, but not fully 100% better and to spec - then you
    definitely still have Carb Float and/or fuel delivery related issues,
    and/or MICRO DEBRIS in the Carb Bowl or Main Jet inlet. If the Genset
    begins to run great - as it should - and continues to do so -
    then your NO FUEL or NO RUN problem is solved! I would still take the
    Carb Bowl off and clean out the whole Assy there just as an added
    precaution anyway as you just never know. When Gensets are truly needed
    in an emergency condition you just don't want to RISK anything!! NEVER
    FORCE ANYTHING EITHER!! It's possibly that you might have to loosen slightly,
    and/or totally remove the
    Float Bowl (usually 2 screws) to see if indeed any gas is getting
    inside to the Float
    at all. If gas comes out readily but still no gas is getting into the
    Main Jet and intake then you purely have a DIRTY CARB issue and nothing
    more!
    If you're not smelling gas through the air filter box then you are FUEL
    STARVED. ALSO - Many a brand new shipped Genset will have some kind of
    NEW gas tank (usually metal gas tanks only) MICRO DEBRIS inside the
    tank itself or even in the rubber gas line (I've heard of this problem before,
    and seen this myself 100's of times with cheaper rubber hoses). That is
    why an added in-line FUEL FILTER (if your Genset has none) is SO
    important!! Usually a common $2-3 item at any auto parts store. Once
    gas is added to the tank all this micro debris is set free to enter
    into the CARB FLOAT BOWL, and that is where Carb problems will start -
    even with a "brand new" never run before Genset!!





  • Frank JR
    Frank JR Sep 10, 2008

    PART 2


    7 - As dumb as this next ? is to ask I have
    to ask anyway -
    Are you
    getting GOOD spark at the spark plug? Again - see #3 AND check the
    engine OIL LEVEL as well. The LOW OIL sensor is actual another ON-OFF
    type switch and if the level Some units ship with the spark
    wire cap disconnected and it may look like it's on the plug, but in
    reality it really isn't fully connected! If you are getting a good
    spark then it's highly unlikely that the Maintenance-free
    Magnetron® electronic ignition would be bad. Fouled
    spark plug - YES - bad Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic
    ignition - hardly.


    8 - If your Genset is used and said to be ? years old, and it just indeed
    might have some high RUNTIME HOURS on it - it just could very possibly
    be what sounds like to me (and I personally HAVE SEEN this
    happen myself firsthand) that the generator brushes are nearly shot
    - as in almost worn out. They may be getting too too hot - as from
    excessive current draw at point of contact, and thus the generator
    sensing circuitry itself is doing an electrical CUTOUT!!



    An added protective Genset "Control Board" circuit feature - that may
    or may not be built into your Genset - is one that is in the Generator
    Head circuitry itself and
    may indeed be linked to the engine as a type of REV LIMITER or CUTOUT
    on the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition.
    Just depends on how sophisticated and expensive your Genset is? Thus
    protects by preventing RUNAWAY and OVER-VOLTAGE conditions rare as that
    may be by today's BETTER designed Gensets (DOES NOT include the cheap
    made in China junk). Again - read your operators or service manual as
    it should have a pretty good
    troubleshooting section in it unless you don't have that anymore or
    never got one if you bought it used to begin with.



    If you unscrew & remove the Generator brushes for servicing yourself, and they are indeed
    below the recommended length (or worse case they are indeed totally
    worn down) then that most likely is your starting or output problem right there. If you are having Output problems as well.



    If you choose to replace the old brushes with new ones yourself - be
    very careful when seating the new ones - as to their insertion and cap
    retainer tightening. Never over-tighten those black plastic-like brush
    retainer screw caps - for if you break one (hard to get immediate
    replacements is why), or fracture one it could cause the Genset to fail
    under LOAD, and that very well could do some severe damage to the
    generator part itself. Take your time doing it, and be patient!!



    It has to be one of the CHECK scenarios listed above, as I've covered every
    possible cause short of a broken wire somewhere - which in that case
    you will have to schematic trace and DVM or Ohm-meter out wire to wire contacts.
    This being the least likely scenario from experience.



    If you indeed find the Float Bowl assy to be the cause of dirt
    contamination or varnish build-up clogging the Carb, and you need a
    walk-through of taking it apart, cleaning it out, and then
    re-assembling it again - as well as re-adjusting the fuel mixture Adjustment Screws - just give me a shout here, and I'll walk you through it step by step.



    Final Note: For all older used Gensets - Are you starting and running
    the Gennie for at least 10 mins every month (30 days) as required by
    most all Mfrs? Are you also keeping & running a good FUEL
    PRESERVATIVE/STABILIZER (as required) in each tank of gas no matter how
    often you run it? BEFORE you totally shutdown your Genset after running
    it (even those short 10 required mins every month) - are you first
    shutting off the gas supply completely, and then running the Genset out
    DRY from as much gas from the Carb Bowl and gas line as you can? Even
    though some "so-called" experts tell you not to do this - if you are
    NOT going to be running the Genset every 30 days or plan to store it
    for more then say 6 months at a time - THEN DO IT RELIGIOUSLY -
    otherwise you will VARNISH the Carb with contaminated GUNK buildup from
    STALE GAS! Happens all the time! Changing the DIRTY OIL frequently and
    adding the proper level of 10-30 (recommended), or 10-40 oil is VERY
    important as well. Your engine will use OIL esp if it's older with
    "higher run hours" on it. Keeping a good Maintenance Log makes GOOD
    SENSE as well. You
    should be doing all of these things as well - if you want a smooth
    running Genset when that real emergency does come up, and that Genset
    absolutely has to work 100%!






    That's about all there is unless you got a truly Defective Genset right from the start. Next stop - Home Depot!






    Best regards to all with the same problems, and hope I helped you out 100% - all political humor/truth aside.



    Please post me a reply as to finding this solution being the best
    resolve to your Genset problem there by following my recommendations
    above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.



    Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.



    Best regards,



    Frank






×

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Will not run without manuely chocking


Sounds like the unit has sat, and carb gum, Try draining the carb bowl and re-filling. There is a screw at the base of the bowl. Also make sure when cold choke is closed. And it opens fully after 3 minutes. Check battery voltage on choke coil.

Dec 17, 2013 | Onan 5500 Microquiet Generator

1 Answer

I have a 8000 watt honda gen with 13hp motor out of no where It shut down starts right back up.I changed gas filter,air filter, oil,spark plug again only cause Ive bought new plugs before and they were bad...


The low oil level sensor may very will be causing the problem. Make sure it is fully serviced with oil and then see if it still keeps sutting down at random. If this resolves the problem great. If the problem persists try disconnecting ONE wire from the low oil level sensor. If it still keeps shutting down load or no load remove the fuel float bowl from the bottom of the carb and check for debris. Check fuel flow float bowl removed. It should fill a spray paint can lid in 8 to 10 seconds to the point your worried about over-flow. If you can not get this rate of fuel flow... check the fuel filter, sediment bowl under the fuel selector and the fuel tank exit port. Then clean up the float bowl / bowl nut (or solenoid) and reinstall it.
Still have the problem... start looking at the wire to the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb (if used) and the ignition wire to the stop run switch for any signs of chaffing all the way from the start runn switch to as far as you can follow it on the engine without disassembly.

I would appreciate any feedback.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Sep 15, 2011 | Honda Power Generators

1 Answer

I have a portercable 5250 generator works great starts great shutts down after about half hour maybe 20 percent load oil good disconnected oil switch, changed feul,carb seems good, bowl clean still...


Seems that you have covered all the bases. The problem that you describe could be related to fuel lock or restriction in the fuel delivery system. Easy to check. Remove the air filter and have carb cleaner ready. If you are near the gen when it begins to quit, spray just a little carb cleaner to see if engine tries to run. If engine begins to run or continues to run with carb cleaner, then suspect fuel delivery problem. If the engine seems to stop quicker with carb cleaner, suspect flooding caused by too much fuel pressure (fuel pushed past the needle due to pressure in the tank; open fuel cap and listen for air pressure release). Fuel delivery problems are caused by collapsed fuel line, restriction in the fuel cut-off valve, restriction at the fuel filter (use larger automotive type), negative pressure in tank caused by no vent at cap. Rare problem with fuel delivery is caused by sudden heat rise at the carb causing fuel to boil out of carb. This is caused by the engine running very hot, lack of air across cooling ribs caused by debris or fan missing blades. You can eliminate the complete fuel delivery system by mounting a small fuel tank on a stand and running fuel line directly to the carb for test. The tank needs to be higher than the carb so that you will have good gravity feed. Good luck

Aug 30, 2011 | Porter Cable PorterCable BSI525W 5250 Watt...

1 Answer

Yes I have a 5500 watt generator from 1999 with a Briggs and Stratton engine. replaced the spark plug but cant get engine to turn over.Ran gasoline straight to carborator and engine ran for a few seconds....


SInce the engines now have several different carbs on them we need to know your exact engine model type / series numbers from the engine.
On a standard carb you remove the float bowl, clean out the bowl the Bowl nut or solenoid and ensure the main fuel jet up inside the treaded area of the carb where the bowl nut threads into is not bolcked with s tiny speck of something. (that is all it takes to shut it down)
Then you check to make sure that you have fuel flow from the float needle are with the float bowl removed.... No fuel here and you have a fuel supply problem.... (shut off valve under the fuel tank in the wrong position, fuel fileter clogged or fuel tank outlet port is clogged.)

Check the above.. make sure oil is FULL as full as you can get it and respond with the COMPLETE engine Model number / (all the numbers) if you still require assistance.

Thanks,
Kelly

Aug 29, 2011 | Northstar Generator 9 Hp, 5500 Watt,...

1 Answer

EB5000 been sitting 6 months, have fuel stabilizer in gas. Will start, but won't stay running. I sprayed starter fluid and it kept running until I stopped spraying the fluid.


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

If the generator has sat for some time the fuel in the float bowl will turn into a varnish like substance (shellac). The residual fuel in the carb will have to be removed. You do this by removing the fuel solenoid (or bowl nut) which ever one youhave that secures the float bowl to the carb. Then take a screw driver and remove the main fuel orifice and remove the debris from the main fuel orifice. Clean the orifice with carb cleaner. DO NOT push anything into the hole! Also spray the brass tube that the main fuel jet screws into with carb cleaner. You should see carb cleaner being sprayed into the throat of the carb.

While the fuel float bowl is removed get a spray can lid and hold it under the carb float. Turn on the fuel selector and the fuel should completely fill the spray can lid in 8 - 10 seconds. If you do not have this amount of fuel flow you need to remove the main fuel line from the carb and re-check fuel flow. If the flow is good here then use carb cleaner in the float needle area to force any debris back out the fuel manufold connection that is now open because you removed the fuel line. If you still do not have fuel flow then check for debris in the fuel tank exit port, the fuel filter, the sediment bowl under the fuel shut off assembly.
Once again with the spray can lid under the float you should have fuel flow anytime the fuel selector is on and the float level is down. It should shut off fuel just as it reaches level. Any other result and the float and float needle will have to be removed, cleaned and inspected for debris.

Make sure to re-install the main fuel orifice in the treaded area that secures the float bowl in place and.re-connect the main fuel line to the fuel manifold / carb fuel inlet connection

If the engine has a fuel solenoid hook it up and and see of it is working as you turn the key / engine switch on and off before you reinstall the float bowl. You make have to hold the case of the solenoid against the engine to make a ground AWAY from any residual fuel for testing. I.e. don't burn up your generator.
Re-install the fuel float bowl and test the engine. It should now work just fine.
The above steps are successful most of the time on generatosr that have sat idle for an extended period. I have been working on generators large and small for over 40 years.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Aug 26, 2011 | Honda Power Generators

1 Answer

I have a north star generator with gx series Honda motor, I cannot get it to start it is practically brand new been used just a couple of times it is 13000 ppt. I have checked the oil level which is...


If you have spark and you add a splash of to the throat of the cab does it fire briefly?
If the generator has sat for some time the fuel in the float bowl will turn into a varnish like substance (shellac). The residual fuel in the carb will have to be removed. You do this by removing the fuel solenoid (or bowl nut) which ever one youhave that secures the float bowl to the carb. Then take a screw driver and remove the main fuel orifice and remove the debris from the main fuel orifice. Clean the orifice with carb cleaner. DO NOT push anything into the hole! Also spray the brass tube that the main fuel jet screws into with carb cleaner. You should see carb cleaner being sprayed into the throat of the carb.

While the fuel float bowl is removed get a spray can lid and hold it under the carb float. Turn on the fuel selector and the fuel should completely fill the spray can lid in 8 - 10 seconds. If you do not have this amount of fuel flow you need to remove the main fuel line from the carb and re-check fuel flow. If the flow is good here then use carb cleaner in the float needle area to force any debris back out the fuel manufold connection that is now open because you removed the fuel line. If you still do not have fuel flow then check for debris in the fuel tank exit port, the fuel filter, the sediment bowl under the fuel shut off assembly.

Make sure to re-install the main fuel orifice in the treaded area that secures the float bowl in place. .

One more thing to do... just in cause you have a valve that is sticking is to add a few oz of fuel to the spark plug hole and leave the spark plug out. Use the recoil with the ignition switch off and pull the recoil to spin the engine as fast as you can to get rid of the fuel you just added.

If the engine has a fuel solenoid hook it up and and see of it is working as you turn the key / engine switch on and off before you reinstall the float bowl. You make have to hold the case of the solenoid against the engine to make a ground AWAY from any residual fuel for testing. I.e. don't burn up your generator.

The above steps are successful most of the time on generatosr that have sat idle for an extended period. I have been working on generators large and small for over 40 years.

If none of the above steps work; I need your engine model number so I can look up carb data.
GX 340 or GX 370 is not what I need... I need the number that is on the base of the engine usually stamped horizontally on the cran case base near the oil filler port or oil level sensor depending on engine orientation.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Kelly

Aug 25, 2011 | Honda Power Generators

1 Answer

I have a 15 kw unit. It starts up fine and runs, but then it'll start to surge and then faults after 20-30 secs. What could be the issue?


Starting fine and then surging is a result of debris in the carb float bowl in most cases. Remove the float bowl and cler out the debris or water. Also.... a clogged fuel filter can cause this same symptom as can a bad fuel pump (if equipped.) Lastly check inside the feul tank looking at the tank port to carb main fuel line for obstructions.

Check fuel flow to the carb at the carb connection. It should pass about 1 cup of fuel in less than 10 seconds. If it does not do this you have fuel supplu issues. If it does do this... for sure there is debris in the float bowl. Make sure to clean the bowl nut (if equipped.) The surging is causing voltage or frequency faults as the engine speed is not constant. (Normal for the unit to shut down when this happens)

If you have a hand held propane torch... you can use it unlighted to test for vacuum leaks with the engine running. The engine will speed up where ever there is a leak. Just barely open the torch flame control valve but do not light it. The engine should speed up as you pass near the actual air intake but no where else. I do not at this time think you have a vacuum leak. I think you have a fuel management problem via a dirty float bowl or restricted fuel supply.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Nov 17, 2010 | Generac 13,000 Watt / 13,000 Watt Home...

1 Answer

I have a coleman 6250 generator, only runs when i spray fuel into the carb, it about a year old. With a B&S engine


Old gas has probably gummed up the works. You have to store these with an empty tank to avoid this in the future. Using a fuel stabilizer helps too. To fix it, remove all of the old gas. Make sure the fuel cutoff valve is open (it only turns 1/4 turn). If it has a fuel filter replace it. Put in just a little fresh gas in the tank with a bit of carb cleaner. If it still won't run, remove the carburetor bowl and you will see a donut shaped float that operates a valve. Using carb cleaner, clean that valve, and clean the needle valve in the middle of the bowl. Good luck.

Aug 09, 2010 | Coleman Powermate Powermate 5000W...

1 Answer

Engine sputters while using power equipment


Fuel Starvation - Float Bowl Carburetor
1) remove air filter assembly
*be cautious of tearing the mounting gasket. If it does tear, you HAVE to replace it. It is part of the priming system
2) remove the float bowl fastener. This is the main jet
3) carefully remove the float bowl, the rubber o-ring/gasket will not be able to be used if it is removed, you WILL have to replace it
4) using a spray 'carb cleaner'
spray up thru the center of the carburetor
spray and clean the main jet with cleaner and 'tag' wire
(tag wire is very thin, and can be used to clean the hole in the center of the main jet)
5) clean any debris from inside the bowl or carb body
6) re-install bowl and center bolt, air filter assembly

*if you need gaskets, your Briggs dealer can supply. The kit is cheaper than individual gaskets, and all the parts needed to finish the above repair are in the kit.

Nov 22, 2009 | Dewalt Power Generators

Not finding what you are looking for?
Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W Portable Generator Logo

622 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Coleman Power Generators Experts

John Trevino

Level 3 Expert

1378 Answers

Phil Rivera

Level 2 Expert

83 Answers

Phil Walker
Phil Walker

Level 3 Expert

602 Answers

Are you a Coleman Power Generator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...