Wires in the back of the oven got exposed, and I guess were touching
the metal. Some of the fiberglass got burned a little, these wires
connected to the ovens heating element. They are two different
sizes. I'm trying to figure out what these wires are called so
that I can order and replace them. The longest wire connects to a black
plastic connector with holes (other wires connect to this part also)
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The F7 code indicates that the touch pad either has a "stuck" or shorted key. Depending on the oven model, you either need to replace the touch pad or the controller (clock) and the touch pad. (Some Jenn Air appliances sell the two as one unit.)
Please add a comment with your model number to get additional information on the availability and price for the parts. (Parts may be available from a number of suppliers, including jenn-air.partselect.com.)
This is likely one of two problems. Either the fiber gasket is getting in the way or if it is like ours one of the hinges is broken or bent. The Hinges can be replaced for about $13 a piece and is not a difficut job. On our the oven was also opening more then 90 degrees and wouldn't close more then to about 1.5 inches away from full closure.
This is a known issue. The model number is JJW9530C. I have been browsing the internet trying to find stronger hinges but with no luck. It seems there are a lot of unhappy Jenn air owners. You are correct in your assumption that the door is to heavy for the hinges. I will post the websites for your review
We own a Jenn-Aire model W27400W oven. The display module has
gradually gone dim over a period of several months prior to the end of
the warranty, and the display is no longer visible. It is apparent
that several Jenn-Aire oven models use the same display. Does Anyone
else have the same problem, and If so, are they willing to join a
class-action suit against Jenn-Aire with us?
Get a long thin flat blade screwdriver. Gently pull the probe with one hand and press on the back side of the probe connector with the screwdriver until you feel no slack in the wires. Don't pull too hard! Rotate the blade of the screwdriver until the connector lines up with the opening and puill it through. Works for installing the new one too.