Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV

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Checker board problem

Hey where do I order those four parts for the format board? I think the diode switches are bad because under a magnifying glass I see that they look like they barfed something dark brown out of them, I do want to change all four things unles you think I dont need to because visually the other two things look fine, two caps are bulging also on that board.I tried to use those id numbers and description numbers and the guy couldnt find them for me at digikey, do I need to order them through mitsubishi? if so what is their number where I can order them, also are they hard tosolder in? I have good expierience soldering things but these tiny things are new for me. I am in the process of ordering all the new caps that I need to replace.

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Good Day, xx07xx;
Not sure what your exact problem is but; Check D8F00 and D8F01 part # 264P828010, also check C8F26 and C8F29 part # 141P148000 (1 uFD, 25 V) on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002). The bulging cap replace with 680ufd (same voltage), if they are 1,000ufd's. To order try 1-800-458-6053 B&D Enterprises.
Good Luck, big IRISH.

Posted on Sep 03, 2008

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1 Answer

My kdl-32l5000 has a diode shorted in the power supply but i cant find out what kind of diode it is the location number is ''D6103''


Look for another diode on that circuit board that looks identical and take a reading in ohms with no meter and that the diode you will need to replace the resistor it should say on the circuit panel look with a magnifying glass

Aug 16, 2014 | Televison & Video

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RCA P46731AT


Do you have the number of the board
that the glass bead was on

Dec 02, 2007 | RCA P46924 46" Rear Projection Television

Tip

Shorted Rectifier Diode (fuse keeps blowing)


jdvillanueva_14.jpg
This CRT tv is dead set, no reaction when the power button is pressed(no standby led light). I've open the back panel and check the faulty parts.
jdvillanueva_15.jpg

As you can see the fuse was badly burnt-out indication of excessive current due to short circuit.
jdvillanueva_17.jpg

I've checked the parts feeding the AC line to the power supply board (Power cord, VDR, Ceramic capacitor, Coil, Posistor, Degaussing coil) one by one and I've found out that one of the four rectifier diode has a leak which caused the glass fuse burnt-out.
Here's how to test the rectifier diode.

Good Diode
Note : Forward and reverse bias depend on what type of ohmmeter are you using, here I'm using a Japan Standard(Sanwa Brand).
jdvillanueva_21.jpg

Using an ohmmeter set it to X10 to see much easier the leak from the diode in reverse bias.

Forward Bias : test the diode by connecting the red test prod of the tester to anode and then the black test prod to cathode of diode. You will see the pointer will reads a faily low resistance(above picture).
jdvillanueva_22.jpg

Reverse Bias : test the diode by connecting the red test prod of the tester to cathode and then the black test prod to anode of diode. You will see at the picture(above) that the pointer didn't react (remains in infinity). This is a good diode.


Bad(leaky) Diode
jdvillanueva_23.jpg

Forward Bias will reads fairly low resistance.
jdvillanueva_24.jpg

Reverse bias unlike the good diode the pointer will also reads a fairly low resistance.

After confirming that the diode caused the fuse from blowing I've decided to replaced all four diodes since I have a lots in my stocks.
jdvillanueva_25.jpg

Remember that when you installing the new diode on the board, make sure that you will make it in the right polarity.

jdvillanueva_26.jpg

This steps is also applicable in the DVD Player,Flat panel, Projection, LCD TV, you have to disregard only the posistor and degaussing coil.

Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

Jdvillanueva

on Mar 02, 2011 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

As soon as i turn my amp on it starts getting extremelly hot and there is a hum comming from the speaker but no sound from plugged in instruments. I think a diode or resistor went bad. Can anybody help me....


yeah its cooking. there should be four diodes grouped together on the power supply 1n4003 or something like that. maybe the fatter electrolytics are going bad too. you can order parts from mouser.com the diodes are 6 cents each and the caps are under a buck each. if you cant find the extact match for the caps get the next voltage rating higher, dont go lower in voltage

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Center convergence is adutable & good. side &edge cannot be adjusted. someone said to replace the caps but I don,t know which ones to replace.


This is a PTK 195 chassis and it rarely has any convergence circuit problems.

THERE IS ONE COMMON VERY INEXPENSIVE THING THAT USUALLY CAUSES THIS PROBLEM IN THIS EXACT SET.

You will need
a volt/ohm meter to see if your set has this problem. If you unplug the set and remove the back cover ABOVE ALL THE MAIN CIRCUIT BOARDS on the bottom of the set you will find a small circuit board about 3 inches wide and 9 inches long.

This board provides the primary voltages for the Convergence circuit the set uses.

There are two or three plugs, and four screws that secure the board---very easy to get out but note and or mark the plugs so you get them back correctly.

On the right side of the board you will find a group of about ten diodes---all of them EXCEPT TWO are the same size.

I have seen in this set twenty times that ONE of the two large diodes in bad (shorted).

Very easy to test---a diode with an ohmmeter (set range to 20k) should only have a reading in one direction= usually in one direction you will read about 4k and when you reverse the test leads NO reading.

A shorted diode will read like a good fuse===0 reading in both directions(a short).

If you find one of the two large ones is shorted they are 3 amp 1000 PRV (Peak reverse voltage) and what are called fast or high speed switching.

If one is bad you do not have to replace both. If you do not know what they look like I can provide a photo here showing you. Each diode has a band on it noting polarity. When you replace it the new one MUST BE FACING WITH THE BAND IN THE SAME DIRECTION. You will if one is bad only have to solder two leads==one on each end of the part.

I have tried to make this answer as detailed as I can since I do not know your skill level. IF WHAT I SUSPECT IS WRONG this is one of the most easy sets ever made to repair this problem in.

Please let me know if you have questions and or need more help---I am here to help.

SD TECH

Keep in mind I am in California and here from noon until late each evening local time.

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2 Answers

My maytag washer stoped during the cycle with 8


You may have blown the internal fuse located in the lid switch. Could be you over loaded the washer and blew the fuse.
Unplug the washer and remove the four screws holding the control panel front in place. Two screws on top and two screws under control panel.
Remove the control panel and tilt forward.
Locate the lid switch assemble and remove glass fuse and inspect.
Door switch assembly should be replaced. When you order the proper fuse it should come with the door switch assembly.
Replace assembly. Reinstall the front control panel and four screws.
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1 Answer

I need to replace the diode on a 4.8 volt NiCad 400m rechargeable


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4 Answers

Whats with my tv?


Good Day;

Replace all caps that are swollen, but resolve your checker pattern:

1. Tile or block pattern replace D8F00 and D8F01 part # 264P828010, also replace C8F26 and C8F29 part # 141P148000 (1 uFD, 25 V) on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002).

The diodes have a stripe (line) that is the cathode, at one end of the device, the board will reflect that line. Good Luck, big IRISH. PS ; De solder as best as you can, glue is under part, heat one end, while prying up, heat other end. It will come off with moderate to mid high heat.

Sep 01, 2008 | Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

Power supply


8a953f8.jpg

Here is my board that i ordered for replacement, as you can see, the top left second in --cap IS BLOWN. so i think i can either, use a cap from my other board into this and see if it works, or.....test out my current board, and use this board for parts.
any suggestions, that be great. As far as,... which diode.. maybe this can help. cheers.-- Goat

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1 Answer

Picture and sound does not always come "on"


Trimmer, you`ve narrowed it down to a certain section and your absolutely correct that it is a bad solder joint, there are 2 things you can do, first get a bright light and a magnifying glass and go over the bottom of the board and look for it, should be fairly obvious with the magnifier, if not go here and order a can of "Freeze mist" www.partstore.com this is a great "tool" for finding intermittents, it`s coolant in a spray can, have someone watch the screen while you spray in the area of the intermittent, when you hit the bad part the set will work, re-solder the part and any joints around it that look bad, end of problem, good luck with it, BMW Rider

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