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Look for loose connection between the LCD panel T-CON board and the logic board first, it may also have lost the 5vdc for the T-CON board. If you are going to DIY and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on: Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply, blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague http://www.badcaps.net Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/
unplug the monitor on at the back fo the computer but leave the power plugged in and if you can see red,green ,blue bars jumpign around the screen it means that the monitor is good check the video card, but if you cant see the colored bars you need to get it repalce.this is monitor selft test process
If the screen is all white light then you can have a number of problems.
One could be a bad video board, the next could be a simple loose wire
from the video board to the back of the lcd screen OR a simple blown
fuse on the back of the actual lcd screen can cause the same thing.
Snaps are all sround these things and can be really stubborn at times.
Best to start the bottom first then work up each side to the top.
Something flat, thin and with a decent sharp edge on it will help. A
pocket knife held parallel to the joint between the front and rear
plastic works, you can also sharpen the edge of an old credit card with
a file (nail file works) This isn't as strong as a blade , but safer if
you slip !!
The E151FPb's seem to have a problem of this sort. After doing some research online I've found that the most common problem is a few dry solder joints on the large circuit board inside the monitor. There was also some talk of a connector suffering from heat creep that sound be connected better on the inside, but usually that would make the screen turn black if it were to become disconnected. The monitor can be opened by unscrewing all the screws on the back, there should be 6 screws you need to pull out before being able to open the case. After those, insert a thin, but strong piece of metal into the side and sort of twist/slide it along the side and it should pop open some clips and just work your way around the perimeter. After that it's just some simple and obvious screws to get to the circuit boards.