Tip & How-To about Bugaboo Cameleon Jogger

HOW TO FIX A BUGABOO BRAKE


A bugaboo brake fault can be caused by any one of the three parts that make up the brake system.

1/ The cable and cable adjustment screw.
2/ The brake lever assembly.
3/ The brake shoe assembly.

I've listed the three parts in the order of most likely to cause your brake problem. First I'll give a quick over view of how the brake should work then we'll look at the 3 parts in more detail.

Lifting the brake lever up pulls up on the brake cable, a ratchet in the lever keeps any tension until you press the release button in the centre of the lever. The cable pulls up on a toothed brake shoe and via a connecting axle a matching brake shoe on the other side, these brake shoes engage a set of matching teeth on the inside rims of the rear wheels thus locking the wheels. A spring on the cable side brake shoe disengages the brake shoes when the release button disengages the ratchet in the brake lever. This is a simple system with most parts in plain view so you can see the operation of all parts except the ratchet inside the lever.

1/ The brake cable is the most likely cause of most brake problems. Like all cables they can stretch, stick and snap. If the brake lever seems to work OK but the breaks don't hold very well try adjusting the cable tension by winding out the cable adjustment screw at the bottom of the cable thus taking up any slack and bringing the brake shoes up tighter into the wheel rims. A sticky or broken cable should be obvious by observing the brake action as you pull and release the brake lever. Run some sewing machine or 3 in 1 oil down the inner cable wire if it's sticky. If broken you can make a new cable yourself. You will need a mountain bike cable a solder less nipple and 75 cm of outer cable if yours is damaged. My local bike shop sells these parts for $10.50 they have to order in the nipples. You can reuse the cable adjuster my local bike shop can get them for a $1 each!

The Bugaboo has an odd double nipple design. Your replacement cable will only have one end the same as the Bugaboo. The other end will be either bare or have the pear style nipple. This you would cut off. Using the old cable as your guide, you cut the new outer cable to 75 cm and fit the ferrules supplied with the kit. The matching nipple will be the top (lever) end of the cable, reuse the old adjuster and slip it on to the bottom end followed by the solder less nipple. Set the nipple 89 cm from its opposite. Depending on the cable and nipple you buy you may need to drill the plastic parts out to ease the fit I also cut the screw head off to get a better finish some nipples come with internal grub screws.
If this sounds to complicated just print this out and give it to your local bike shop. Here's one I made all ready to go!

2/ The brake lever assembly is made up of the lever, a release button, a small compression spring and the outer bracket that holds it all on the handle. The bracket also holds the left handle release button. The most common problem is the ratchet fails to hold and this is a safety issue as it can fail quite suddenly!
Before reading any further have you ever lubricated you brake lever? If not do so I have quite a few brake lever faults come to me that are just sticky buttons. Use a silicone spray not WD40. Now back to real brake problems.
Either the small compression spring has broken (unlikely) the screws holding the assembly loosen (hopefully) or the teeth on the button and outer bracket have worn down (most likely). Try first to tighten the two screws, if that does not help take the two screws out. It's a simple mechanism the button sits inside the lever it can move in and out of the lever but can't turn as it has splines that lock it to the lever. A compression spring pushes the top outer edge of the button against the inner side of the bracket; they both have serrated teeth that lock them together. The raised centre of the button protrudes though the bracket. Pushing on the center of the button disengages the interlocking teeth of the ratchet. The compression spring can be found in most hardware stores, worn ratchet teeth can be reshaped with a rotary modeling tool like the Demel.

3/ If the Brake shoes are the problem it will be obvious,broken expansion springs are easily replaced, stripped threads on the cable adjuster can be sorted at your local bike shop and broken parts either repaired by a plastic welder / bumper repair shop or replaced with parts from a salvaged frame.
The most common problem is one shoe engaging before the other (usually the one opposite the brake lever) this is caused by the aluminum connecting shaft getting a slight twist in it. Remove the wheels, take the screw out of the connecting shaft of the shoe that engages first. Lever the shoe out of the aluminum shaft with a large screw driver. Chisel the alignment splines off. refit shoe but don't put the screw in yet. Refit wheels, now put the brake on and check that both wheels now lock up. While brake is still on fit screw back drilling a new hole if necessary, Release brake and adjust brake cable so break shoes just clear the wheel rims, Check brake operation if you find you cant get the lever to a suitable lock position back the cable off a bit more and try again,

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Hi! The brake on my bugaboo won't stay in


A bugaboo brake fault can be caused by any one of the three parts that make up the brake system.

1/ The cable and cable adjustment screw.
2/ The brake lever assembly.
3/ The brake shoe assembly.

I've listed the three parts in the order of most likely to cause your brake problem. First I'll give a quick over view of how the brake should work then we'll look at the 3 parts in more detail.

Lifting the brake lever up pulls up on the brake cable, a ratchet in the lever keeps any tension until you press the release button in the centre of the lever. The cable pulls up on a toothed brake shoe and via a connecting axle a matching brake shoe on the other side, these brake shoes engage a set of matching teeth on the inside rims of the rear wheels thus locking the wheels.A spring on the cable side brake shoe disengages the brake shoes when the release button disengages the ratchet in the brake lever.This is a simple system with most parts in plain view so you can see the operation of all parts except the ratchet inside the lever.

1/ The brake cable is the most likely cause of most brake problems.Like all cables they can stretch, stick and snap.If the brake lever seems to work OK but the breaks don't hold very well try adjusting the cable tension by winding out the cable adjustment screw at the bottom of the cable thus taking up any slack and bringing the brake shoes up tighter into the wheel rims.A sticky or broken cable should be obvious by observing the brake action as you pull and release the brake lever.Run some sewing machine or 3 in 1 oil down the inner cable wire if it's sticky. If broken you can make anew cable yourself. You will need a universal bicycle brake cable kit and a solder less nipple.
macnutz_20.jpgmacnutz_21.jpgThe Bugaboo has an odd double nipple design. Your replacement cable will only have one end the same as the Bugaboo.The other end will be either bare or have the pear style nipple.This you would cut off.Using the old cable as your guide, you cut the new outer cable to 75 cm and fit the ferrules supplied with the kit. The matching nipple will be the top (lever) end of the cable, reuse the old adjuster and slip it on to the bottom end followed by the solder less nipple.Set the nipple 89 cm from its opposite.Depending on the cable and nipple you buy you may need to drill the plastic parts out to ease the fit.If this sounds to complicated just print this out and give it to your local bike shop.

2/ The brake lever assembly is made up of the lever, a release button, a small compression spring and the outer bracket that holds it all on the handle. The bracket also holds the left handle release button.The most common problem is the ratchet fails to hold and this is a safety issue as it can fail quite suddenly!Either the small compression spring has broken (unlikely) the screws holding the assembly loosen (hopefully) or the teeth on the button and outer bracket have worn down (most likely).Try first to tighten the two screws, if that does not help take the two screws out.It's a simple mechanism the button sits inside the lever it can move in and out of the lever but can't turn as it has splines that lock it to the lever.A compression spring pushes the top outer edge of the button against the inner side of the bracket; they both have serrated teeth that lock them together. The raised centre of the button protrudes though the bracket.Pushing on the center of the button disengages the interlocking teeth of the ratchet. The compression spring can be found in most hardware stores, worn ratchet teeth can be reshaped with a rotary modeling tool like the Demel.

3/ If the Brake shoes are the problem it will be obvious,broken expansion springs are easily replaced, stripped threads on the cable adjuster can be sorted at your local bike shop and broken parts either repaired by a plastic welder / bumper repair shop or replaced with parts from a salvaged frame. The most common problem is one shoe engaging before the other. Take the screw out of the connecting shaft of the shoe that engages first adjust shoe to match other side and drill a new screw hole.

Jun 29, 2011 | Bugaboo Baby Gear

1 Answer

The plastic brake thing on the handle has broken, where or how can I replace this?


Bugaboo don't sell this as a part. If your Bugaboo is under 2 years old Bugaboo will give you a new frame. If older you have two options maybe three: 1/ Check out eBay for a cheap frame with a different fault ( I find UK eBay good for this) 2/ Take the lever asembly apart (it's quite a simple unit held together by two screws) and take the broken lever parts to a plastic welder (look in your yellow pages). Yes plastic can be welded.
There are stroller repair places that sell secondhand parts when they have them. BuggyPitStop in the UK and Karlisle's in Austrailia. A google will find them.

Apr 03, 2011 | Bugaboo Cameleon Stroller

1 Answer

hi need to get my bugaboo seviced


A bit vague!? The only maintenance / servicing you can do is lubricate with silicon sprays and adjust the brake cable tension. Anything else is a fault. If your Bugaboo is under 2 years old and you have the documentation it will be fixed under warranty. I use the word fix but Bugaboo don't fix anything they just replace the offending component. 9 times out of 10 the chassis. If you're out of warranty please be more specific about the fault and I'll try to help.

Nov 03, 2010 | Bugaboo Cameleon Jogger

1 Answer

I need a schematic for the rear brakes on an F150 super cab with 4.6L automatic trans 4wheel drive


Drum, Rear Brake System Standard Rear Brake
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Item Part Number Description 1 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin 2 — Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt (2 Req'd) 3 — Washer (2 Req'd) 4 — Anchor Pin (Part of 2211) 5 — Wheel Cylinder 6 2028 Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Guide Plate 7 2A637 Parking Brake Lever 8 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Short) 9 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Long) 10 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Secondary) 11 — Washer 12 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer 13 — Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide 14 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link 15 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring 16 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 17 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever 18 2048 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Socket 19 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut 20 2041 Brake Adjusting Screw 21 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring 22 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Primary) 23 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable 24 2211 Brake Backing Plate
Heavy Duty Rear Brake
6dcb5d2.gif
Item Part Number Description 1 — Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt 2 00538 Lock Nut 3 2212 Rear Brake Backing Plate 4 2262 Rear Wheel Cylinder 5 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link 6 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring 7 2A637 Parking Brake Lever 8 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer 9 — Parking Brake Lever Bolt 10 — Secondary Shoe Assembly 11 2A179 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide 12 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 13 — Adjusting Lever Pin 14 — Adjusting Lever Return Spring 15 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever 16 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut 17 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring 18 2041 Brake Adjuster Screw 19 — Primary Shoe Assembly 20 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 21 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining 22 2035 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring 23 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable 24 2092 Brake Adjusting Hole Cover 25 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin
The rear drum brakes:
  • Have internal shoes that expand against the brake drum (1126).
  • Are a single-anchor type.
  • Are actuated by one rear wheel cylinder (2262).
  • Have two pistons in the rear wheel cylinder (2261). One exerts force against the upper end of the primary shoe; the other exerts force against the upper end of the secondary shoe.
  • Adjust rear brake shoes and linings (2200) automatically.
  • Need manual brake adjustment if the adjusters are not operating properly or after the rear brake shoes and linings have been replaced.
When the brake pedal is applied, hydraulic fluid pressure forces the pistons in the rear wheel cylinder outward, moving the rear brake shoes and linings against the brake drum.
The rear drum brake system includes the parking brake mechanism. Refer to Section 206-05 .

Apr 04, 2009 | 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

3 Answers

brake(?) rubbing on left big wheel when not on level surface or turning


The same thing happened to mine. I had a good look at what was going on and decided that the length of brake chord is ever so slightly too short. Even with the brake cable adjuster as far "down" as it can go, the chord brings the brake shoe up too close to the wheel making the "raspberry noise" on the left. I got my brand new bugaboo suspiciously cheap and am now wondering whether perhaps it was a factory second because of the short chord.
Anyway, after a bit of tinkering the problem has been almost eradicated, it now only makes the rude noise on the tightest of turns.
1) First, ensure the brake cable adjuster is as far down as possible by rotating it clockwise until you can rotate no further. It can be a bit fiddly so try taking the right big wheel off to get better access to the adjuster.
If the adjuster was not at the bottom before then put the wheel back on and give it another go - it might now work!
2) if not, turn the chassis upside down and identify the thinner cross-bar, just above the "big wheel" axle. You should be able to see 2 screws, one at either end of the bar.
Unscrew the screw at the opposite end of the bar to the brake cable. Now, GENTLY pull the brake at the same end( the green nobbly bit)upwards, towards you whilst re-tightening the screw you've just removed. Only release the little bit of tension on the brakes once the screw is fully tightened.
This step might seem a bit pointless, as it appears that you unscrew a screw, then do it straight back up. Fair point but that tiny bit of flex in the brake/crossbar assembly made all the difference to ours!
I do hope this helps - I really think there is a bit of a design fault here as ideally the adjuster should be set in the middle of the range so that adjustments can be made either side of the neutral. Mine is right on the lower limit and hence has no further room for adjustment. Unless of course it is, as I say, a factory second!! Sorry if I've gone all technical.
Good luck!

Mar 08, 2008 | Bugaboo Cameleon Jogger

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