The problem may NOT be the heating element. Although, a likely cause, if the dryer runs, but does not heat, you could have several other factors, that can cause the same problem. The following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three sites also have helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you in parts location/identification. The heating circuitry is listed under the "Bulkhead" heading.
If this is a Kenmore front loader, the heating circuits are accessed by removing the lower toe panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom front edge. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off.
NOTE: You can prop the two front feet of the applaince up for better access to the screws. A 2x4 works well. Make sure the appliance is UNPLUGGED before servicing anything inside the dryer cabinet. Dangerous voltage is still present inside a dryer even with the unit turned off.
If you need better access to get to the dryer heating circuits you will have to perform the following steps:
1. UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltage is still present inside the dryer even when it is turned off.
2. Open the door and remove the lint screen. IMPORTANT: You will not be able to remove the air blower cover with the lint screen in place.
3. Disconnect the auto dry sensor plug (usually yellow wires with a white plug to the right of the blower assembly) and any ground wires that may be connected to the front panel.
4. Remove the air blower cover by locating and removing the mounting screws.
NOTE: This is a good time to clean the blower fan housing, squirrel cage motor and dryer interior cabinet.
5. Remove the top panel of the dryer by locating and removing the screws holding the panel in place in the rear of the dryer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then come off.
6. Locate the two screws that hold the operator console in place. There should be one on each side under the top panel. Remove the screws and carefully lift the panel straight up.
NOTE: You do not need to disconnect the ribbon cables. Carefully lay the console across the top of the dryer out of the way.
7. Disconnect the door switch connector plug and remove the dryer front panel by locating the four screws that hold it in place. Loosen the two screws along the bottom of the panel and leave in place. Remove the top two screws and lift up and turn the whole front panel slightly counter-clockwise to release the drum supports from the dryer drum.
NOTE: Make sure the dryer door is closed when removing the front panel to avoid damaging the door hinges.
8. Remove the dryer drum. Reach in behind the air blower with both hands and pull the idler pulley to the right with your right hand to release the tension and remove the dryer belt.
NOTE: To reinstall the belt later, follow the same steps above for releasing the tension of the idler pulley. Then, with your left hand loop the belt over the drive motor pulley. Release the idler pulley making sure the belt rests on the drive motor pulley. You should feel the belt tighten with tension.If you need further clarification on how to properly route the dryer belt you can go to repairclinic.com and click on the "Repair Help" link at the top of the page. On the following page, locate the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section. Refer to diagram K.
9. With the drum removed, the heating compoents can easily be accessed. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat is located on the outside of the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is located at the back of the dryer, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
10. The entire heating assembly is removed by disconnecting all the components leads, followed by loosening the heater box mounting screw. With everything disconnected, the entire box and components will come free and lift out of the dryer.
11. Make sure you take components measurements disconnected from the circuit to ensure accuracy. There are a couple of mounting screws on the side of the heater box that holds the heating element in place. With the screws removed, the heating element will slide out of the box.
12. Replace any defective components and reinstall heater box. Make sure you properly label all wiring to ensure they are reinstalled correctly.
13. Reinstall the front panel by turning it slightly counter-clockwise and aligning the front drum supports under the front of the drum. Once the supports are under the drum, turn the front panel clockwise and lift up, placing it on the bottom two screws. Reinstall and tighten the top two screws.
14. Reinstall the door switch connector plug and reinstall the operator console. Use caution not to put too much stress on the ribbon cables.
15. Reinstall dryer top panel.
16. Reinstall air blower cover and reconnect the auto dry sensor and ground wire.
17. Reinstall toe panel by inserting the top portion first and pushing up. Push lower portion of the panel in place and reinstall screws.
I know this may seem like a lot, but its actually fairly simple if you follow the steps provided. Read through everything before attempting any repairs. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.