Tip & How-To about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

Replacing a Gearcase

This advice is for Kenmore, Estate & Whirlpool TOP LOADING DIRECT DRIVE type washing machines. Read the instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty that can be accomplished easily if you follow the steps provided:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Inspect both halves of the coupling for signs of wear. Replace if necessary (part #285753A).

10. Uninstall the motor mounting plate from the gearcase by removing the two bolts.


11. Remove the agitator by removing the center cap. Locate the center nut under the cap and loosen with a socket and ratchet. Lift both portions of the agitator straight up, exposing the gearcase center shaft. Remove the agitator clip and agitator washer from the shaft. NOTE: If there is a recessed square slot under the agitator cap, use a 3/8 inch to ½ inch socket adapter with extender to remove.

12. Now take the washer and lean it backwards so that you have full access to underside of the washer. Loosen the three bolts holding the gearcase in place. When you get the last bolt, loosen slowly as the gearcase will begin to drop from under the washer. Slide the entire gearcase and shaft out of the washer.

13. Remove the clutch and brake assembly from the top of the gearcase by removing the retaining clip. Do not forget to retain the washer that is under the clutch.

14. Inspect new gearcase assembly. Open the breather hole (covered by a dab of paint) using an awl or similar tool. Install washer on gearcase shaft and install clutch and brake assembly. Slide gearcase shaft up through the agitator shaft from under the washer. Hold in place and get one bolt started. Insert remaining bolts and tighten them all evenly.

15. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.

(cont'd)


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Related Questions:

1 Answer

Why won't the Kenmore top loading washing machine agitate?


There are two types of Kenmore top loading washing machines. The direct drive models and the belt drive models. Direct drive models do not have a back access panel and the water inlet valve is located on the left side viewed from the rear while belt drive models do have back access panel and the water inlet valve is located on the right side viewed from the rear.

The most common problem causing a top loading machine not to agitate, particularly when the motor seems running, is a broken motor coupler for direct drive models and a broken or worn out drive belt for belt drive models.

The best way to exactly determine the cause is to access the drive motor. Open the back access panel for belt drive models and check the drive belt. Check the drive motor if it is running, humming or stuck.

Please indicate the model number of the washing machine if it is a direct drive model for the procedure in accessing drive motor.

Jan 15, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Model# 110-503110/ Sears Washing machine, Ser.# 4045 Need to know what type and weight of oil to use in the gear box.


From everything I've read, top load, direct drive Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a 80-90 weight non-detergent gear oil.

Most likely non detergent since some of the parts in the gearcase are plastic.

Following is the Whirlpool service manual for these washers that might help.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


Oct 27, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

maytag washer


Hello
Welcome to Fixya
My name is Huum,


Faulty Direct Drive Coupling (Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper / Estate)
The Direct Drive (motor) Coupling may be broken. Many Whirlpool/Kenmore brands washing machines utilize a small, relatively inexpensive direct drive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other.

It can wear out over time or fail under overloading conditions. This protects your transmission from excessive loading.
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Cabinet Removal - Whirlpool / Kenmore / Estate / Roper Direct Drive Models

**NOTE**
The diagrams referenced in this article are available for download in the Attachments section below:


1.) Preparation
It should be obvious but the first step should be to unplug the washing machine. Then pull it away from the wall a six to eight inches.

2.) Rotate Control Panel
Locate and remove the screws (items 49 on the Control Panel Diagram) that are installed in the base of the both the left and right side control panel end caps. Once the screws are removed, pull up and forward on the control panel. The control Panel will rotate toward the back. Tilt it back until the hinges catch. Allow it to rest there.

3.) Unplug Harness
With the Control Panel Assembly folded out of the way you should now disconnect the wire harness that connects the console to the main case. The harness plug disconnects from the top of the cabinet.

4.) Remove Clips
Use a flat head screw driver to remove spring clips (items 6 on the Cabinet Diagram) from both the left and right side of the cabinet top. This can be accomplished by inserting a flat head screw driver into the spring clip and pry toward the back of the machine. Once each clip is loose, feed the clip out of the hole in the rear panel.

5.) Detach Cabinet
Now open the lid. Use one hand to hold the lid open and the other to grab the front of the cabinet opening exposed when opening the lid. Tilt the entire cabinet assembly toward you by pulling both the front cabinet lip and the lid. This should release the rear locking tabs.

Use your knee as a lever to lift the front of the cabinet away from the washing machine base. This should release the front locking tabs and complete the removal of the cabinet from the machine.

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Dec 08, 2008 | Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Washer makes noises


You said, when the washer is going into spin cycle it makes a loud clunking noise. You are wondering if this could be the brakes or possibly the pump?

Sounds like this!

Faulty direct drive Coupling (Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper / Estate)
The direct drive (motor) Coupling may be broken. Many Whirlpool/Kenmore brands washing machines utilize a small, relatively inexpensive direct drive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other.

It can wear out over time or fail under overloading conditions. This protects your transmission from excessive loading.
it can also be a broken spring or strut dependping on your washes make and type

Please remember to leave a rating

Nov 16, 2008 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...

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