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FH Error Code on Whirlpool Duet & Kenmore Elite Front Loaders
This advice is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet model FRONT LOADERS displaying the “FH” error code.
"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.
If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:
- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.
If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.
To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet
To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch – remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It’s a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.
There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.
I hope this helpful. Please post back if you can't find the tech sheet and/or need further assistance.
"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.
If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:
- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.
If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.
To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet
To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch – remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It’s a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.
There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.
I hope this helpful. Please post back if you can't find the tech sheet and/or need further assistance.
Yes
No
Comment #2
posted on Jul 03, 2009
Upon removing the top cover from the DUET washer, I found the pressure switch located on the right back of the washer (facing the front) had jarred itself lose from the washer chassis and was dangling from it's molex wiring harness. This was undoubtedly due to years of vibration and poor installation at the factory.
Because the pressure switch hose was resting against the tub body, the constant vibration had wore a pin hole in the hose so that no vacuum could be created to activate the pressure switch, creating the H/F code.
I replaced the hose-problem solved. Total cost $4.49. When reinstalling the pressure switch to the washer chassis, use a thin screwdriver to make sure the plastic expansion tabs actually seat themselves beyond the chassis hole opening so that the pressure switch does not dislodge itself again.
Because the pressure switch hose was resting against the tub body, the constant vibration had wore a pin hole in the hose so that no vacuum could be created to activate the pressure switch, creating the H/F code.
I replaced the hose-problem solved. Total cost $4.49. When reinstalling the pressure switch to the washer chassis, use a thin screwdriver to make sure the plastic expansion tabs actually seat themselves beyond the chassis hole opening so that the pressure switch does not dislodge itself again.
Comment #4
posted on Mar 28, 2009
My washer threw the F H code, it ended up I had caused the problem earlier in day. I installed a new set of stainless mess hoses this morning. I pulled the hoses off and found there was a flow restrictor washer in the washer end. I removed these from both hoses and problem went away. I had noticed these restrictors when installing hoses but didnt think they would cause a problem. Oh well live and learn. Washer is a 18 month old Whirlpool Duet front loader..... Excellent machine..... It gets a big workout and no problems till this.
Comment #5
posted on Mar 26, 2009
I had the same problem, in my opinion there is a defect with the flow meter. The reed switch is not properly secured to the side of the flowmeter so it intermittently works and does not work. When it would not work it was during the rinse cycle when heavy wet clothes were sloshing around in the washer causing more vibration than during the initial wash cycle. I ordered a new flowmeter, the reed switch is secured to the side of the new flowmeter, and have not had a problem since. You may be able to glue the reed switch to the side to determine if this is in fact the source of your problem. Otherwise I found a flow meter for $18 plus $7 S&H.
Comment #7
posted on Nov 29, 2008
The whirlpool duet washer has a cheap plastic pump that breaks very easily; no "screen" to protect it. Mine breaks down all the time. I would like to know if there are metal parts available. Also, it locks up frequently. I understand that all front loaders have these problems???
Linda
Linda
Comment #9
posted on Oct 16, 2008
Great advice and steered me in the right direction for solving my problem. here's some additional things to look for and try.
1. There are two inlet valves at the back left of the washer when you take the lid off. These two inlet valves are one big blue plastic part. Each valve has two wires going to it. Your hot and cold water hoses of course connect to these valves from the outside of the machine, at the back left. This F/H error can also be caused if one of the valves is not working and not allowing water to come into the machine during some part of the cycle. At the beginning of a wash cycle it is trying to allow hot water in, and then after about 12 minutes it is trying to let cold water in at the beginning of the rinse cycle. If one or both fail to open then you will see the F/H error.
2. You can trouble shoot these valves by disconnecting one of the wires to one of the valves at a time and seeing what happens. For example, if you run the rinse and spin cycle it will want to open the cold water valve. When the valve opens you will be able to hear it. If you hear it and no water comes out there is something wrong with the valve or it is clogged at the outside mesh filter - unplug the valve wires and try again and if the noise goes away then you know thats the valve that the machine is trying to activate. If you don't hear it activating then either electricity is not getting to it or its bust.
3. None of the above fixed my problem. As mentioned above you should check to make sure your taps are turned on (duh :-)). For me it was the new hoses i purchased. Unbeknown to me these hoses had a "flood control" feature which shut off the flow of water when the water flow came on too suddenly. I had apparently turned the taps on too fast after connecting them, spiking the pressure on the cold one and activating its flood control feature. Turning off the water and disconnecting and reconnecting the hose fixed the problem.
Happy hunting in your troubleshooting....
1. There are two inlet valves at the back left of the washer when you take the lid off. These two inlet valves are one big blue plastic part. Each valve has two wires going to it. Your hot and cold water hoses of course connect to these valves from the outside of the machine, at the back left. This F/H error can also be caused if one of the valves is not working and not allowing water to come into the machine during some part of the cycle. At the beginning of a wash cycle it is trying to allow hot water in, and then after about 12 minutes it is trying to let cold water in at the beginning of the rinse cycle. If one or both fail to open then you will see the F/H error.
2. You can trouble shoot these valves by disconnecting one of the wires to one of the valves at a time and seeing what happens. For example, if you run the rinse and spin cycle it will want to open the cold water valve. When the valve opens you will be able to hear it. If you hear it and no water comes out there is something wrong with the valve or it is clogged at the outside mesh filter - unplug the valve wires and try again and if the noise goes away then you know thats the valve that the machine is trying to activate. If you don't hear it activating then either electricity is not getting to it or its bust.
3. None of the above fixed my problem. As mentioned above you should check to make sure your taps are turned on (duh :-)). For me it was the new hoses i purchased. Unbeknown to me these hoses had a "flood control" feature which shut off the flow of water when the water flow came on too suddenly. I had apparently turned the taps on too fast after connecting them, spiking the pressure on the cold one and activating its flood control feature. Turning off the water and disconnecting and reconnecting the hose fixed the problem.
Happy hunting in your troubleshooting....
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