Tip & How-To about Refrigerators

Seven Rules for Replacing a Refrigerator

Here are seven rules of thumb that can keep your purchase of a replacement refrigerator from becoming a continuing drain on your pocketbook:
1) Don't buy a refrigerator bigger than you need. One rule is to choose a model that has 10 cubic feet of food storage for a family of two and then add an extra cubic foot for each additional person in the household. The freezer should be 40 to 45 percent as large as the food storage section. Thus a family of 4 will want to pick a model that is between16.5 and 17.5 cubic feet, and a family of 6 might choose a model that is about 20 cubic feet.
2) Side-by-side refrigerator/freezers use more energy than units with the freezer above or below the fresh food compartment. Side-by-sides also take up more space for the same storage volume.
3) Through-the-door features, like cold water or automatic ice dispensers, impose as much as a 20 percent penalty in increased electricity usage as compared to similar models without these extras.
4) Manual defrost models use less energy than automatic defrost units, consuming as much as one-third less. However, you should defrost the freezer when 1/4 inch of frost has accumulated.
5) Two refrigerators use more electricity than a single large refrigerator with equivalent storage space. And it is never a good idea to keep a half empty "his" refrigerator in the garage with beer and soda, while a "hers" refrigerator is in the kitchen with room to spare.
6) Don't let an old, inefficient refrigerator pass onto the used appliance market - recycle it for parts only. If your old refrigerator earns a negative investment return for you, it won't reward a family that must pay $50 or $80 on top of the hefty energy bills.
7)) Look for the Energy Star label. It is a quick and easy way to avoid paying for a mistake with each month's electricity bill.

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How do I fix freezer drain in Kenmore Elite french door refridgerator


Hello John;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

A frozen or blocked drain may not be the problem, or it may.

You have one of two problems. Regardless of which problem it is you need to remove the back wall panel in your freezer. This is not a easy task. You must remove the freezer door, the ice maker, the side guide rails. There are two clips on the back wall air distribution center section using a screw driver to depress and then some. You need to install a hot wire from the bottom of the defrost heater to the drain. Do not attempt this, you may damage some of the components if you do not have the experience.

Ok, lets check out the frozen drain the easy way. Your unit goes through a defrost cycle every 8-10 hours. This is where everything shuts down for 20-30 minutes with the exception of your lights. Your defrost heater turns on during this time.

1.) Check the Drain:

a.) Pull your unit out from the wall to where you can get behind it. You may have to raise up the leveling jack screws in the front to do this. Remove the bottom toe plate. There are two Philips head screws holding it on. Turn the jack screws counter clockwise to raise.
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b.) Having pulled the unit out from the wall, unplug the unit. Remove the bottom back cover. There are several hex head screws holding the cover on.
Pull the drain tube out. It just Pops in and out. If there is a black rubber grommet at the discharge end, remove it and throw it away. The initial intent was to keep warm air from getting into the freezer. However, over time they dry up and prevents the condensate from draining.
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c.) Insert a wire up into the drain hole, such as a coat hanger, to check for blockage. If it is blocked with ice, you must unplug your unit for 24 hours to completely clear the ice.

2.) Obstruction or Refrigerant Leak:

Recently, I believed my friend had a frozen drain in the same unit that you have. Upon pulling the back cover I discovered a block of ice build-up at the refrigerant and capillary tube connection. The capillary tube is about 1/16" in diameter with a small needle size hole running through it. This tube can easily become plugged, which is common. This block of ice will continuously drip. A repair of this nature is about $450.00 - $550.00. The rule of thumb is: "If the cost of repair is 1/3 or more of the original cost of the unit, then replace the unit. You can get some good deals at a Sears Outlet (Scratch & Dent) Store.

25373873-gdidvipt5nahjm0x11drq30d-2-8.jpg

Jan 19, 2015 | Kenmore 25 cu. ft. TRIO French Door Bottom...

1 Answer

My Whirlpool refrigerator makes a continuous knocking sound for about a minute or 2 then makes one louder knock and stops for a bit then does it again


Hello Barb;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

Inside your compressor are two flat plate valves. Unfortunately, these plates are broken. This causes your compressor to knock loudly. You can confirm this. Pull your refrigerator out. Without unplugging, remove the bottom cover. Observe the compressor. You will see the compressor jerk and jump.

It is expensive to replace a compressor. Depending on your model it can cost between $450.00 & $650.00. The rule of thumb is: "If the cost of repair is 1/3 of the original value purchase a new unit".

Sorry for the bad news.

Peter, Baltimore, Maryland

Nov 11, 2014 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Our window air unit is leaking into the house. It was purchased it earlier this summer and has worked fine until now. We don't see a drainage hole on the outside and the manual said nothing about a drainage hole. Please help!


Two things can cause the problem you're having. Either separately or collectively.

1. The drain hole in the drip pan near the rear of the unit is clogged.
Sometimes finding the drain hole can be a challenge. As the clog will blend in with the hole. Patience & persistence is what is needed in locating it. A pipe cleaner works well to clear the clog.

2. The rear of the unit does not have enough downward tilt.
The general rule of thumb for rear downward tilt is 1/4' to 1/2". This allows the water to flow to the rear of the drain pan and thru the drain hole. Rather than into the house.

Hope this helps you & thanks for choosing FixYa..

Aug 19, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

im laying 160mm sewage drainage i have 2 fixed points which i have 100mm fall the drain run is 10 meters long is that enough fall


The rule of thumb for drain fall is ΒΌ" per foot for 2" or smaller and 1/8" per foot for 3" or larger. If for whatever reason you cannot get this then just remember that you need to keep the solids suspended the length of the run to keep the drain from plugging over time.

Feb 09, 2011 | Plumbing

3 Answers

just bought it and put it on its side


Hi the rule of thumb is keep the fridge in the up-rite position for at least the same amount of time that the refrigerator was laying down to help any oil in the lines to drain back into the compressor before plugging it back in.. But I like to wait 24hrs to be on the save side..hope this helps

Sep 05, 2007 | Frigidaire FAP094P1Z Portable Air...

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