Tip & How-To about Hannspree HANNS·G HC174DP 17 inch LCD Monitor
I have just repaired mine and it seems to be working fine - fingers crossed ! I followed a sheet by a fellow FIXYA post CCLTECH for a different Haans G monitor but the principle is the same - so thanks to them for pointing me in the right direction.
The problem is caused by some of the capacitors on the power circuit board malfunctioning, so you need to dismantle the screen and relace them - if you can solder OK and have approx £5 to spare, it is quite easy.
1. First you need to remove the front fascia - prise this off from the bottom corner - there are several clips all the way round - I managed to remove it with only slight scuff marks and no broken clips ! Then place the screen upside down on a towel or blanket with the stand hanging over the edge of the table. There are 4 screws that hold the back on and 4 screws that hold the stand in place - remove all of these - the stand slides out and the back lifts off - be careful there are wires that attach from the back cover which need to be disconnected before you can remove the back completely out of the way.
2. Carefully remove the foil sticky tape from the metal box, remove the blue/black and pink/white wires from the one side of the metal box - the plugs pull out - they are quite stiff. Remove the four screws from holding the metal box to the screen.
3. You can now lift up the box and carefully prise out the two multi connector plugs with a flat bladed screwdriver - these are tight again but will come out with some persuasion. You should now be able to remove the metal box from the screen wholesale.
4. Turn the box over and remove the screws (approx 7) holding the circuit boards in place. Remove the four screws from the VGA / DVI sockets with a small spanner or pliers. You should now ba able to remove the circuit boards from the metal box - there are 2 boards connected wit ha amilti point connector which just unplugs.
5. Look at the board with the power plug on it - if it is the same as mine, there is a right angled piece of metal at one side behind which are 5 black radial electrolytic capacitors (and some other components). The tops of these capacitors were domed - which often indicates failure, so I replaced all 5 of them. They are numbered as follows:-
C244 = 1000uf 10v (16mm long x 10mm dia) (I used 16v as 10v are hard to get).
C241 = 1000uf 10 V (16 x 10mm)(I used 16V as 10v are hard to get)
C263 = 470uf 25v (16 x 10mm)
C261 = 470uf 25v (16 x 10mm)
There is also another smaller one in the same line but I couldnt see a number by it.
C??? = 470uf 10v (11.5 x 8mm)
Make sure you note the polarity as you remove them.
6. Assembly is a reversal of the process, and SUCCESS - I have no green flashing LED - the screen is working fine.
I bought the capacitors from Boxwood Electronics - cost £3.50 by first class post - very quick response - the only concern I have is the capacitors I removed were rated to 105°C and the ones I replaced with are only rated to 85°C so I am hoping for the best, but so far so good - if they fail again I will replace them with the higher temperature rating - they are widely available - I must have just ordered the wrong ones !
Apparently you can use higher voltage rating capacitors OK if you cant find the exact match - dont use a lower voltage rating.
Sorry there are no photos - hindsight is a wonderful thing - I hope you find this useful and it works for you - unfortunately there are no guarantees with this - please give some feedback - it will help others.
Posted by Brian on
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