Tip & How-To about Samsung DLP HL-P5663W 56" TV

Repair job continued

7. Locate the color wheel cover. It’s got a small green circuit board on top of it with a black/blue wires connected to it. Remove that plug. Also, and this is the trickiest part, remove the two cables coming from the color wheel. One is a copper-colored ribbon cable. That will just slide out easily. The other is a cable with two white and one blue wire. This one is tricky to remove, so you’ll need to ease it out. I pried it out with a jeweler’s screwdriver. DO NOT just pull on the wires.
Note: A reader made the following excellent suggestion to avoid breaking the white connector on the end of the blue/white/white wire:
Having replaced quite a few of these colorwheels as a Samsung service tech, I have found that you do not have to remove the blue/white wire from the DMD board (avoiding the risk of damage to the optical engine) There is enough slack in the wire to route it around the cover when removing it. You can then unplug the wire from the old colorwheel and plug it in the new one (the plastic tab will break off the old connector when you go to remove it,but it will still fit snugly on the new colorwheel) Using this method I have had no problems reusing the old connecting cable

Color wheel cover view from top-down. This part has three screws and slides straight up.
8. Unscrew the color wheel cover. There are three screws holding it in place. One to the rear of the set, and two in front. The one to the rear is tucked way in, so I just unscrewed them and carefully left them in place and pulled them out with the cover. Slide the cover straight up, exposing the color wheel. As you do, note where the color wheel wires go — out the gap in the front.
9. Remove the bad color wheel. The color wheel is held in place with three screws. Remove the screws and the color wheel. The color wheel may be stuck in place with the foam tape, but that’ll give with a small tug. To remove the wheel cleanly, I lifted the front edge and slid it toward the front.
10. Insert the new colorwheel. It can be tricky to do this without touching the wheel, or bumping the wheel into the case. (This is where you need the nerves of steel). Once you get the proper angle, it will slide into place. Don’t force it — remember, this thing needs to spin at 9000 RPM, it’s probably pretty sensitive. At first, I tried to put it in place with the screws already in the holes. This didn’t allow me to slide it in properly. Lesson learned: put it in without the screws and then hold the screws in place with tweezers, if necessary.
11. Put the color wheel cover back on with the wires out the space facing the front of the case. Make sure the wires reach their destinations, and screw in the cover. Three screws. Attach the three connectors. The metal contacts on the ribbon cable face the rear.
12. Put all the guts back in place. Slide the center unit back in. Without touching the projector lens, open up the slice in the foam so it wraps around the projector lens, and slide it in the rest of the way. The center unit can only go in on it’s track, so again, don’t force anything. Connect the two wires you removed on the left side. They should only go in one way. Did I mention don’t force anything? Screw the sensor switch onto the bracket on the right.
13. Put the power cable in it’s slot. Just the way you noted on the way out.
14. Slide the left PC board and panel back in place. There are two screws that hold it in place that you screw in now, the rest hold on the access panel.
15. Put the projector lamp back in place and screw it into place. I forgot to do this both times.
16. Put the access panel back on and screw it in (14 screws)
17. Plug in the television, say a prayer, and turn it on.

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I have an rca hdlp6iw51 and i found a color wheel on ebay but i dont know how to change it does anyone have any advice


Follow this steps:
1. Take the back panel off of your set, using your Phillips head screwdriver, to remove any screws. 2. Remove the projector lamp. You can reach the color wheel without doing it, but you are less likely to damage the projector lamp if you take it out. Loosen the screws at the base: depending on your DLP's brand, the screws may come out, or may just loosen. If they come out, set them in a safe place before removing the lamp. If not, just pull the entire lamp out, once the screws will not loosen further. 3. Take out the panel that is connected to the cable outlets, using the screwdriver to take out any screws. Pull the panel until the cables, attached from the inside, run out of slack.
4. Remove the screws at the bottom of the panel, in the center, and any screws connecting this panel to the outer case of your DLP. The number and location of these screws will vary depending on your DLP's brand.



  • 3 Remove the projector lamp. You can reach the color wheel without doing it, but you are less likely to damage the projector lamp if you take it out. Loosen the screws at the base: depending on your DLP's brand, the screws may come out, or may just loosen. If they come out, set them in a safe place before removing the lamp. If not, just pull the entire lamp out, once the screws will not loosen further.
  • 4 Take out the panel that is connected to the cable outlets, using the screwdriver to take out any screws. Pull the panel until the cables, attached from the inside, run out of slack.
  • 5 Remove the screws at the bottom of the panel, in the center, and any screws connecting this panel to the outer case of your DLP. The number and location of these screws will vary depending on your DLP's brand.
  • 6 Pull out the entire center unit, pulling gradually. Then, unplug the power cable from the main set (this is generally blue and brown). Remove the sensor switch and any cables joining the center unit to either side of the set.
  • 7 Take out the plug from the cover of the color wheel. In most brands, it will have a black and blue wire connected to a green circuit board. Then, remove any cables coming out of the wheel. Depending on the brand, the screws may be small enough to require the jeweler's screwdriver.
  • 8 Remove the screws holding the color wheel cover in place. Remove the cover, then take out the screws holding the wheel in place. If tape is holding the wheel, just pull on the wheel until it comes free.
  • 9 Put the new wheel into the slot. You do not want to touch the wheel, or you will blemish it and leave impressions that will be visible when the light shines through it. Re-insert the screws. Then, replace the cover, making sure that the wire jacks are in the same places.
  • 10 Reassemble the DLP television, then plug the set into the wall, and turn on the power.

  • Read more: How to Change a DLP Color Wheel ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7697815_change-dlp-color-wheel.html#ixzz1VdDl2OQb


  • 3 Remove the projector lamp. You can reach the color wheel without doing it, but you are less likely to damage the projector lamp if you take it out. Loosen the screws at the base: depending on your DLP's brand, the screws may come out, or may just loosen. If they come out, set them in a safe place before removing the lamp. If not, just pull the entire lamp out, once the screws will not loosen further.
  • 4 Take out the panel that is connected to the cable outlets, using the screwdriver to take out any screws. Pull the panel until the cables, attached from the inside, run out of slack.
  • 5 Remove the screws at the bottom of the panel, in the center, and any screws connecting this panel to the outer case of your DLP. The number and location of these screws will vary depending on your DLP's brand.
  • 6 Pull out the entire center unit, pulling gradually. Then, unplug the power cable from the main set (this is generally blue and brown). Remove the sensor switch and any cables joining the center unit to either side of the set.
  • 7 Take out the plug from the cover of the color wheel. In most brands, it will have a black and blue wire connected to a green circuit board. Then, remove any cables coming out of the wheel. Depending on the brand, the screws may be small enough to require the jeweler's screwdriver.
  • 8 Remove the screws holding the color wheel cover in place. Remove the cover, then take out the screws holding the wheel in place. If tape is holding the wheel, just pull on the wheel until it comes free.
  • 9 Put the new wheel into the slot. You do not want to touch the wheel, or you will blemish it and leave impressions that will be visible when the light shines through it. Re-insert the screws. Then, replace the cover, making sure that the wire jacks are in the same places.
  • 10 Reassemble the DLP television, then plug the set into the wall, and turn on the power.

  • Read more: How to Change a DLP Color Wheel ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7697815_change-dlp-color-wheel.html#ixzz1VdDl2OQb

    Aug 21, 2011 | RCA HD61LPW42 61" Rear Projection HDTV

    4 Answers

    foodsaver pro locked up. 3 green lites blink off and on. is the problem fixable?


    The reset button is the small black rubber covered hole on the left side of the vacuum channel. If you press down on that with something like a knitting needle with the unit on, it should reset

    Oct 17, 2010 | Tilia FoodSaver V2240

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    install color wheel in samsung hlp tv model #hlp4663w


    yes u need to take the optical block out is hold by screw umplug the hdvi cable and 2 small cable caming from the anolog board , now take the top black cover wicht is protecting the color wheel now remove the only 2 screw for the color wheel , becare full when remove the 2 smaller cable for the color wheel and when put it in the color wheel back in place

    Jan 16, 2009 | Televison & Video

    3 Answers

    Take apart MX3000


    Please refrain from pressing too ******* the screen. The pressure responsive clear cover in front of the LCD screen can crack, resulting in a defective touch screen. If you truly wish to disassemble the unit, then there is a way. But please understand that this WILL void your warranty.

    First, remove the battery cover on the back and unplug the battery pack, then remove the battery pack. Now, if your fingernail is strong enough, you can wedge it in between where the dark colored rear plastic plate and the light colored front plastic plate meet along the sides. Start in one spot, then slowly and gently work your way around the entire remote. If done properly, the two sections should begin to unsnap from each other. Once the back cover is unfastened, be cautious of the black wire connected to the ground shield on the inside of the back cover. Now you'll notice 3 seperate wire harnesses attached to the back plate that plug into the circuit board. Carefully unplug these harnesses. Don't worry if the small, black round device on one of the harnesses falls off the back plate. That is just the small speaker and can easily be pressed onto the back plate again. Once all the harnesses are unplugged, move the back cover around until it is out of your way, without pulling the ground shield wire loose. Now you should be able to see the green circuit board. The next step is to unfasten the wide, flat ribbon cable on the lower left side of the circuit board. Look closely where the ribbon cable is plugged into the white colored slot. On the sides of that slot are small black flanges. Carefully pull those flanges away from the slot to unlock the ribbon cable. You won't have to move the flanges very far. Now gently remove the ribbon cable from the slot and leave it there for the time being. Continuing, you'll need to remove the 4 small phillips head screws that secure the green circuit board to the front plate. You can possibly use a #1 phillips head screwdriver, but a #0 or smaller is preferred. Once all 4 screws are removed, you can begin to gently lift the circuit board away from the front plate. Be cautious while letting the ribbon cable slide through the slot in the circuit board. Once the circuit board is removed, you should be able to access the rear side of the lcd screen assembly. The screen assembly simply snaps onto the back side of the front cover plate via 4 small grey plastic snap studs. If your screen was already crooked in the remote, then one or more of these plastic snap studs may be broken. If so, then a few small drops of hot glue may help hold the screen in its correct position. Now, if the screen assembly was already in the correct spot, but the internal sections of the screen are what were misaligned, then it may be beyond self-repair.

    This is as far as I can help with this. I'm sorry if I left out any steps, as I'm trying to conjure this from memory.

    Good luck.

    Apr 16, 2008 | Universal Remote Control MX-3000 LCD...

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