Tip & How-To about Dryers
First , check the circuit breaker to make sure they are on . Be sure to UNPLUG the dryer , while checking with an ohm meter . When checking WITH power , BEST to have another person available in case of emergency . I do know of 1 person killed while working on his dryer .
A dryer operating on 240 volts , sends 120 volts to the timer and 120 volts to the motor . In between these two , are the thermal cut-off , and the element ( this is the basic operation parts ) . The 120 volts from the motor , goes directly to the element if selected for heat . The timer circuit , sends the other 120 volts , thru the operating thermostats , then thermal fuse , then thermal cut-off , then high-limit thermostat , then to the element . Usually , not ALL the time , the thermal fuse ( number 1 ) is the problem . The heating element ( number 2 ) is usually the problem , if the thermal fuse is good .
If the thermostats , element , and thermal fuse check good with an ohm meter , remove 1 wire from the element and check with a meter , which side is NOT getting 120 volts . Trace the wire which will either go to the timer ( occasionally ) or to the motor ( extremely rare ) .
On a gas dryer , for no heat , or , heats for a short time then runs but no heat afterwords until cooled down , first check that the electronic igniter , glows red . If it does NOT glow red , then check power to the burner ( 2 wires ) . If no power , then the thermal fuse is bad . (On electric dryers , the thermal fuse keeps the dryer from starting . On gas dryers , it keeps the dryer from heating . The thermal fuse , is a 1" long , or oval , white piece , with 2 wires going to it ) . Also if it does not glow red , the igniter itself could be bad . Again , check with an ohm meter . If the igniter glows red and clicks off , but no gas , the sensor could be bad . This sensor , is mounted to the side of the burner box , and when the igniter gets hot enough to ignite the gas , the sensor opens , sending power to the coils , which open dispensing the gas to heat the dryer . To check the sensor , with the drum removed , start the dryer , and after the igniter gets red , pull one of the wires OFF the sensor , and the gas should ignite . Do this very carefully , as electricity WILL be in the wire pulled off . If the dryer heats for a short time then stops heating , the problem will be the burner coils . These coils will get warm from the electricity going thru them , and will " open " ( short ) internally , until they cool down . Then heat again for a short time , then open , until cooled .
Most of the time , either the thermal fuse ( 1 ) or the coils are bad ( 2 ) or the igniter is bad ( 3 ) .
........A thermal fuse is a white 1" long torpedo looking piece , or , a white oval shaped piece , with 2 wires going to it .
NOTE1 : The thermal fuse keeps an electric dryer from starting and keeps a gas dryer from heating .
NOTE2 : If your dryer heats but the clothes do not dry , then a venting problem is obvious , as a dryer either heats or doesn't heat . Pull the dryer out and disconnect the vent from the dryer . Dry a load of clothes and if/when they dry in the normal amount of time , this tells you either the vent hose is kinked , maybe pushed back too far , or , the outside vent is blocked , or , the vent in the wall is restricted to the outside .
NOTE3 : If your lint screen is on top of the dryer , the element , thermal fuse , and thermostats are behind the rear dryer panel ....If the lint screen is behind the dryer door , then the element , thermal fuse ( located behind the lint screen housing ( 2 screws ) , and thermostats , are located behind the lower front panel .
Posted by Mike Smith on
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