Tip & How-To about Microwave Ovens
Just about all MW ovens made in the last 15 years are almost identical inside and operate in a similar manner. Most have a service sheet packed inside that will contain basic troubleshooting tips. If your having trouble with your oven, first remove the top and sides cover. It will be secured with security TORX screws. Now slide cover toward the rear.
First, does the interior light and control panel display come on? If not check the 20amp slow blow fuse located near where the power cord enters the cabinet. If bad,replace.
Next if the oven gives every indication that it is cooking yet does not actually heat your food, then check for 110V at the large power transformer. If no voltage than check the three micro-switches that are part of the door latch interlock. Failure of one of these switches is very common.
If the 110V is present and yet unit does not cook and/or unit makes a loud vibrating noise, then the problem could be the magnetron, diode, or capacitor. WARNING: There is over 2000V in this circuit. Even when unplugged the capacitor could still hold a charge. Discharge cap by using a screwdriver and short across the two terminals. There is an internal bleeder that should take care of this but discharge the cap just to be sure. The diode can be checked by using a 9 volt battery to bias the diode on. Note: The diode function on your multimeter can not be used in this instance. The Capacitor can be checked by using an ohmmeter seeing if you see a surge as the cap charges. Reverse leads to check again. There isn't an easy way to check the Magnetron but arcing in the cabinet and/or a very loud buzzing are indications that one has failed. Mags are not normally replaced due to cost, about $75.
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