Tip & How-To about Garden

5 saves for that salvaged serpentine belt.

1. Coil it tightly around that hard to reach/remove oil filter 2-3 times, then pull on the end that enables it to unscrew - and it will ! ( If you can't pull the free end to spin it off, the added width of the coils around the filter will give you a super non-slip grip for your hand to grab & unscrew it.)

2. Fold it into itself and wedge it between that pulley and a solid wedge point, then rotating the pulley until it locks up, siezing it from turning, you can loosen those pulley hub mounting blots or center bolt....Without damaging your pulley hub !

3. Cut it into the desired length and cut a **** in each end to slip hose clamps through to repair that broken exhaust / muffler hanger mount. It will last longer than the parts store rubber mount kits.

4. Line the inside of your kids bicycle tires with it and you'll NEVER FIX ANOTHER FLAT...Well, I haven't...And I live in Texas !!!

5. An 8" strip wrapped around that jar lid that refuses to loosen is a piece of cake now....Try it !!!

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3 Answers

replacing oil pressure sensor(oil sender unit) i saw it licking oil above oil filter


It is really hard to get to, but really easy to change.

Unhook the battery cable so you don't blow the new one when you install it. Depending on the location, you may have to remove the oil filter to be able to access the sensor.

Unplug the wire off the end of the sensor, slip a socket onto the old sensor, and unscrew it like you would a spark plug. Before you out the new sensor in make sure it has Teflon tape on the threads. I always a little more than what comes with it.

Screw in the new sensor "hand tight" - then 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight; do not over tighten. Plug the wire on the end. If you removed the oil filter, replace it with new one. Last step - replace the battery cable.

May 28, 2014 | 2002 Buick Rendezvous

1 Answer

change the oil


1.prepare materials needed such as:
  • An allen wrench or screwdriver (for fairing removal, if necessary.)
  • An oil filter wrench (for removing the oil filter.)
  • The appropriate crush washer for your oil drain plug-- this can be purchased from a hardware store or motorcycle service shop.
  • A pair of needle-nose pliers, in case the oil filler cap is hard to reach or tightly screwed on.
  • An adjustable socket wrench.
  • Clean rags.
  • The proper amount of manufacturer-recommended engine oil.
  • A new, manufacturer-approved oil filter.
  • A funnel
2. Unscrew the oil filter caps 3. Remove the oil rain plug 4. Replace and remove the crush washer 5. Clean the oil drain plug 6. Remove the oil filter 7. remove and clean plastic mesh filter 8. Lubricate the O-ring of the new filter and attach it to the engine 9. Replace Oil drain plug and plastic mesh filter then pour oil 10. Check oil level

Jun 14, 2010 | 1983 Honda XL 125 R

1 Answer

how to service cbr 929


hi budfdy its quite easy to do if you jno what your doing right
1:run the bike till it reaches working temperature
2:unscrew the oil plug located underneith engine and drain into a bucket
3:unscrew the oil filter in the front off the engine near the front wheel
4:get the new oil filter and dab some oil on the black seal and screw on hand tight
5:put the sump plug back in and tghten checkiung seal is ok
6:unscrew filler cap on right side engine casing and fill with oil i reccomend silkolene oils
7:as you fill with oil the sight glass located below the filler plug will begine to fill with oil stop filling when the oil reaches 1/2-3/4 full on the glass also do this with the bike upright then put the plug back in and start the bike rechecking the oil hasnt dropped
8:remove seat
9:unscrew the bolts holding the tank in by the steering and tilt the tank up
10:unscrew the airbox screw holding the lid in on the out side and lift off replacing with new filter and rebuild back together
11:check coolant if dirty change but if is clean leave it
hope this helped buddy

Sep 12, 2009 | 2001 Honda CBR 929 RR Fireblade

1 Answer

what if any special tools are required for a


No special tools required. MAYBE!

I say maybe because if you've ever taken you car into a quick lube place and they've changed your filter they are Notorious for installing the new filter on TOO TIGHT!. They are actually told to do this so the owner is forced to come back and have them do the next oil change. Its almost criminal.

The plug to drain the oil from the car is a simple 5/8in bolt, a socket or open ended wrench with work just fine.

The Oil filter SHOULD be able to unscrew by hand. Now if its on there too tight. There is a tool at any auto parts store called a Oil filter Wrench. They run around 10-20 bucks. all it is a handle with a metal ribbon that loops around the filter and allows a better grip.

You can also get away with jamming a screw driver into the filter and using that for leverage to unscrew it from the engine. *Note* This is extremely messy!!!

Just remember when installing a new filter to tighten it one half turn after it becomes tight. It does not need to be cranked on there hard.

Hope this Helps and thanks for using FixYa.com

Aug 14, 2009 | 2005 Ford Fusion

1 Answer

changing engune oil


Before draining the engine oil, you'll want to unscrew the oil filler cap (it's usually made of black plastic, with a raised twist tab.) Doing so will allow the oil to drain more quickly. If the cap is hard to reach or tightly screwed on, you might want to use needle-nose pliers.Place a pan or bucket under the engine and use a socket wrench to remove the drain plug, which is located on the underside of the oil pan. Be careful during the last few turns, as the oil-- which might be hot-- will start to spill out. IMPORTANT NOTE: Be sure to properly dispose of used oil at a qualified hazardous waste disposal facility. Dumping used oil is both illegal and harmful to the environment. The crush washer is an aluminum or copper disc designed to deform under pressure, which helps seal the oil drain plug. This part must be replaced after each oil change, and is seen here being separated from the drain plug. The tip of the drain plug is usually magnetic, in order to attract slivers of metal shed by the engine. While larger pieces are typically found during an engine's break-in period, don't be alarmed when smaller pieces routinely end up stuck onto the edge of the drain plug; just wipe them off with a clean rag. While the oil continues to drain, unscrew the oil filter using a filter removal tool, which reaches around what might be a tightly screwed in filter. Once the filter is off, make sure the filter's O-ring (a band of rubber that fits on the tip to ensure a secure seal) came off with the filter. In order to remove larger particulates, unscrew and remove the plastic mesh filter from the side of the engine case. First, wipe the mesh off with a clean rag so no particles remain. Then, if possible, blow smaller particles off with compressed air. While the drain plug, mesh filter, and oil filter holes on the engine are exposed, wipe them all down with a clean rag to remove any accumulated sludge, in order to ensure a tight seal. Every new oil filter comes with an O-ring; ensure it is seated snugly in the filter and spread a dab of motor oil around its top surface in order to ensure a tight seal. Then, using your hand, screw the new filter into the engine case. Be sure NOT to use a tool for this part; it's easy to over-tighten the filter and damage the O-ring when using a tool. Once the old oil is completely drained, which should take at least several minutes, use a clean rag to wipe down the drain hole and the mesh filter hole. Screw the oil drain plug (with a new aluminum crush washer) and the plastic mesh filter back into the case. Use the owner's manual (or markings on the engine) to find out the engine's oil capacity, fill it up with that amount-- minus about one half quart-- by placing a funnel into the oil filler hole. Screw in the oil filler cap and start up the engine. Let the engine idle for about a minute, then shut it off. After the engine has idled for about a minute, shut it off and wait another minute or so for the new oil to settle from the cylinder heads into the crankcase. Make sure the bike is perfectly level; if there is a rear stand attached to the bike, remove it so it rests flat on the ground. If the bike doesn't have a center stand, lift it off its kickstand so it sits up perfectly straight. Check the oil window on the side of the crankcase: if the oil is below the center line, top it off until it's perfectly centered. If it's already at the center, voila-- you've just successfully changed your oil!

Nov 20, 2008 | 2005 Harley Davidson FXDL - FXDLI Dyna Low...

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